From a bird’s eye perspective, Itchan Kala – the old walled city of Khiva – looked absolutely amazing. Minarets, madrasahs, green and turquoise domes, and sand-colored structures stretched as far as the eyes could see. However, one has to leave the sky and return to the ground to properly appreciate the intricate details of the centuries-old monuments within the defensive walls, for they were all built to impress the mortals.

Just like most rulers throughout human history, the one who controlled Khiva in the 17^th century CE commissioned an imposing building from which he ruled his domain, because power has to be projected, doesn’t it? A large citadel within Itchan Kala was subsequently constructed over a 12^th-century structure which would then become what we know today as the Konya Ark (also spelled the Kuhna Ark). Situated on the western side of the walled city, this compound is easily distinguishable by the two-story Ak Sheikh Bobo watchtower that rises above other buildings within its vicinity – which proved quite handy as a landmark in navigating the narrow streets and alleys of Itchan Kala that could at times feel like a maze.

We stood before the gate to the citadel, and as we stepped inside it was evident that this compound was created as a city within a city. Its current appearance is largely attributed to multiple restorations carried out in the 19^th century following its destruction in the 18^th century at the hands of Afsharid Iran led by Nader Shah, the shah (Persian for “king”) of Iran at that time. Not only did he conquer the Khanate of Khiva, but he also defeated the once-mighty Mughal army and entered Delhi, the capital of the Mughal Empire. Among the treasures he plundered from the Mughals was the legendary Koh-i-Noor, one of the largest cut diamonds in the world. After changing hands multiple times, it now adorns the Queen Mother’s Crown, a property of the British monarchy.

As we wandered deeper into the compound, we came across a courtyard where a beautiful iwan or ayvan (the front entrance or veranda of a Central Asian traditional building) welcomed visitors who probably did not expect to stumble upon such a magnificent sight. Known as Kurnysh Khan, the early 19^th-century structure served as the residence of the khans, as well as a reception hall for foreign dignitaries. And as is the norm for a palace, it is richly adorned both inside and outside, where blue majolica tiles with floral and geometric patterns fill every inch of the façade. From this site, we went further inside the compound and found the staircase to reach the highest point of the Konya Ark. Interestingly, the foundation of a previous structure was exposed on a wall next to the steps, giving visitors an idea of the multiple stages of construction that resulted in the citadel we see today.

The Ak Sheikh Bobo (also spelled Akshih Bobo) tower, which is the tallest structure within the citadel, stood before us. And as we went further up, it became clear why the past rulers of Khiva chose to erect this watchtower at this exact spot: it afforded a commanding view of the old city sans the acrophobia-inducing height of the Islam Khodja Minaret. However, there hasn’t been any khan standing at this place since the abolition of the Khanate of Khiva in 1920, replaced by the short-lived Khorezm People’s Soviet Republic before the region’s full absorption into the Soviet Union four years later. Today, only tourists and soon-to-wed locals flock to this lofty corner of Itchan Kala, lured by the promise of a magnificent view of the walled city.

The Konya Ark might have been a fitting place for the khans of Khiva, but the khanate wasn’t always ruled from there. On the other side of Itchan Kala near the Polvon Gate, another palace was commissioned in the first half of the 19^th century. Called the Toshhovli Palace, this royal abode was equipped with hundreds of rooms and three courtyards serving different purposes. After showing our tickets to the ladies at the counter, we were directed to follow a pathway that we later realized was part of the maze of corridors crisscrossing the compound.

First, we were presented with the Arz Khaouli (also spelled Arz-Khovli) that once functioned as the ceremonial court of justice. All sides of the courtyard were covered by blue majolica tiles done in a style not too dissimilar with what we saw at Kurnysh Khan of the Konya Ark. The iwan was impressive, and I can’t stress enough the importance of looking up when you visit any historical monuments in Uzbekistan, for what sits above your head is usually just as magnificent as what lies before your eyes.

We moved on to the southeastern corner of the palace and found ourselves in the middle of another elaborately-decorated courtyard known as the Ichrat Khaouli (also spelled Ishrat-Khovli). In the past, it was used for private receptions and entertainment with rooms for guests located on the second floor of the buildings surrounding the space. A yurt was also provided to receive invitees from the many nomadic tribes across Central Asia. Today, the intricate majolica tiles, exquisite wood carvings, and beautiful ceiling would certainly keep any photographer busy taking photos of the incredible details.

Behind the grandeur of the palace, however, were hundreds and probably thousands of slaves who were forced to finish the construction as fast as the khan wished. This was largely attributed to Khiva’s position as a major hub of the slave trade in Central Asia from the 17^th to the 19^th centuries, supplying other khanates in the region with enslaved individuals mainly from Persia and Russia. Fortunately, this once lucrative business has now been abolished.

Not all opulent buildings in Itchan Kala were built at the behest of an ambitious khan to be his residence. Situated within the southern half of the walled city is a complex dedicated to a Sufi teacher and poet who lived during the period of Mongol rule in Central Asia. Pahlavon Mahmud’s humble beginnings, his reputation as an undefeated wrestler, and his works of literature were among the main reasons that eventually led to people’s reverence for him. In one of his books titled Kanz ol-Haghayegh (Persian for “The Treasure of Truths”), he wrote a couplet that reads:

Learn modesty if you desire knowledge,

A high land would never be irrigated

When you see his mausoleum today, however, modesty is probably not what comes to mind. It is believed that according to his will, the poet wished to be buried in his own leather workshop in Khiva – although others believe he actually died in the city of Khoy in Iran. But due to the popularity of his tomb among a growing number of pilgrims, over the course of centuries his final resting place was gradually expanded, and each iteration brought in more lavish decorations. Some of the khans of Khiva were even buried here.

When we went to this complex, it was rather busy both with pilgrims and foreign visitors. But as soon as we entered the mausoleum, a solemn ambiance permeated from the different chambers within the building. At one corner, a man – probably the caretaker – led one small group of devotees after another in reciting certain verses from the Quran.

Directly to the northeast of the mausoleum complex is where we headed next: an old mosque with a history that dates back to the 10^th century. Juma (literally “Friday”) Mosque is considered one of the most important structures in Itchan Kala and is famous for its hundreds – 213 to be precise – of carved wooden columns that create a rather atmospheric scene. Most of what people see today is from the 18^th century when the mosque was rebuilt. But some elements from the 10^th – 16^th centuries of the place of worship’s previous incarnations are remarkably still standing. And as the icing on the cake, within the mosque’s compound is an 18^th-century minaret decorated with horizontal turquoise bands that give it its distinct appearance.

As I looked up at the towering structure through an opening from inside the mosque, it dawned on me that our time in the ancient Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan had almost come to an end. From the magnificence of Samarkand, to the charm of Bukhara, and the photogenic walled city of Itchan Kala in Khiva, each place and its historical monuments enchanted us more than we had anticipated. Tashkent, the capital of modern-day Uzbekistan would be our final stop. But before that, we made a detour from Khiva to check out some of the ancient walled cities and fortresses of Khorezm (also known as Chorasmia) that have partially been reclaimed by the desert.