It was a cloudy afternoon on our third day in Siem Reap and we were on our way to a massive 12th-century temple in a forest-studded setting. Earlier in the morning when the weather was ideal for photography, we paid a visit to the Roluos […]
All posts filed under: Southeast

Baphuon: A Puzzle No More
In the beginning of the 11th century CE, the Khmer Empire plunged into yet more internal strife which saw a protracted conflict to determine the rightful claimant to the throne. It began during the reign of Jayavarman V, the son of Rajendravarman II who became king […]

Banteay Srei: Poetry in Stone
It’s amazing, and scary, to think of what our hands are capable of doing. They slap, they punch, they stab, they fire a gun, they molest, they hurt. But they also write, they cook, they sculpt, they caress, they play music, they paint, they create. […]

The East Mebon & Pre Rup: Stately Legacies in Eastern Angkor
In the late ninth century CE, the Khmer people witnessed the establishment of a new capital of their fledgling empire under the rule of Yasovarman I, whose predecessors previously ruled from Hariharalaya. Called Yasodharapura (modern-day Angkor), the new center of administration began seeing the construction […]

Roluos and the Beginning of the Khmer Empire
Over the course of human history, there have always been individuals who have what it takes to push the boundaries, to make breakthroughs, to think of what others can’t conceive, to do what others don’t have the courage to execute, to dream about what seems […]

Smitten with Siem Reap
The Defeat of Siam. Quite a name for a place situated not too far from the border with Siam – modern-day Thailand – itself. Imagine if there was a city in France called La Défaite de l’Allemagne (The Defeat of Germany). That would have caused […]

Candi Bubrah & Lumbung: Overlooked and Underrated
Wildflowers can be interesting and pretty. But if there is an orchid sitting next to them, people’s attention would almost certainly be fixated on the latter due to the extravagant colors and shapes of its blooms. The same thing can be said about two ancient […]

Prambanan: The One that Keeps Calling
Do you have a special place that, for whatever reason, keeps calling you to return even though you’ve been there many times? I do. Those who have been following my blog for years wouldn’t be surprised if I tell you that such a place for […]

Great to See You Again, Cambodia!
Eleven years ago, in my early years of blogging, I went on a whirlwind trip to Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam in just one week. Back in those days, I was focused on seeing as many countries as possible despite the brief time off from work […]

Mount Kencana: Into the Tea Country
Nowadays, wherever you go in the world, it seems like cafés and coffee shops can be found at almost every corner of a city. Many people get their daily cup of Joe out of necessity (or should I say addiction?) thanks to the caffeine kick […]

Puncak: Jakarta’s Lush Backyard
As he carefully navigated the bends and twists of this mountain pass through thick fog that drastically reduced visibility, he kept murmuring wow and phew, being both perplexed and relieved every time he managed to conquer a sharp turn. My father was at the steering […]

A Ride to the Past
I love trains. Take a metro system, and you’ll be whisked to other parts of a city much faster than if you drive a car. Hop aboard an intercity train. In many cases, you’ll get to your destination reasonably fast. Taking the train induces less […]