Entering the citadel through Lawana Labunta
Throughout the history of humanity, we have been attracted to and fascinated by higher ground. Some regard these sites as the abode of gods, while others see more practical reasons to favor such locations. Their prominence would afford anyone who holds a grip on the place a sweeping view of their immediate surroundings – an ideal condition for defense. One such example of this is situated on the island of Buton in eastern Indonesia, and seeing it was one of the main reasons for James and I to take a week-long break from work last August to visit Baubau, the largest city on the island.
In the late 16th century, the third ruler of the Sultanate of Buton commissioned a fort on the edge of the hills that overlook Baubau. At first, this took the form of a simple fortification around the palace. However, the fourth sultan (who also introduced a constitution to the monarchy) added more defensive walls which eventually resulted in the enlargement of the fortified compound. Today it is often touted as the largest fortress in Indonesia, and what makes it even more special is the fact that it was not built by any European powers who back then constructed numerous forts across the vast archipelago to secure their economic interests.
With a total circumference of 2,740 meters, enclosing an area of around 23 hectares (roughly half the size of Vatican City – the world’s smallest country), Buton Palace Fortress had to some extent helped the sultanate to establish itself as one of the key players along the Spice Route. Unsurprisingly, conflicts arose multiple times in the 18th century between the sultanate and the Dutch East India Company (VOC), which at that time dominated the lucrative maritime trade routes between Asia and Europe. But the former largely managed to remain independent, until the signing of a treaty in the early 20th century between the 33rd sultan of Buton and the Dutch colonial administration which resulted in the latter’s control of the sultanate’s foreign affairs and legal matters, among other things. Eventually, the long line of Buton’s hereditary rulers ended when the 38th sultan passed away in 1960, followed by the full absorption of the sultanate into the Republic of Indonesia.
On a sunny day, after spending a few hours at a café to escape the midday heat, we hiked uphill toward the fortress, which is also known as Fort Wolio. The dense foliage we encountered along the walk obscured the views of the supposedly imposing structure. But as we reached the perimeter of the fortress, there it was: one of the many gates to the compound stood proudly above us overlooking the city of Baubau. We scaled the steep stairs and entered the walled enclosure through Lawana Labunta (lawana means “gate” in the local Wolio language). I thought there would be a ticket booth on the other side of the gate, but there was none, and just like that we were inside the large compound.
We took a quiet saunter down the road along the defensive walls, and learned about the different names of the gates and the bastions (called baluara). There are conflicting sources about the number of lawanas and baluaras of this fort. Some say there are 12 and 16, others cite 14 and 18, respectively. I lost count of them as we were more fixated on taking photos of the walls as well as the houses within the enclosure, many of which were built in the traditional Butonese architectural style, complete with the pineapple-and-dragon ornaments. If this fort were in Europe, it would’ve probably been crowded with summertime holidaymakers. However, we had the lawanas and baluaras mostly to ourselves, except from a few local tourists we occasionally encountered. Quite amusingly, some inquisitive locals thought we were either from Japan, South Korea, or China. They looked puzzled when I spoke to them in Indonesian and told them we’re from Jakarta.
The rampart near where we entered the compound
The graves of the 25th sultan of Buton and probably his close relatives
A path out of the walls
Reminders that we were in the tropics
A local resident checking us out
One of the quiet streets within the fortress
Tamarind, an important ingredient in the local cuisine
The same ingredient drying in the sun
Not the usual sight for us big-city dwellers
Baluara Dete (left) and Lawana Katapi, among the many bastions and gates of the fortress
Wherever you go in Baubau, you will always see pineapples
The view of the eastern side of Baubau with the island of Muna in the far background
Some bastions still have cannons, a reminder of its defensive purpose
One of the houses built in traditional Butonese style that we saw inside the citadel
Left: A tall kapok tree near Lawana Wajo; Right: Lawana Burukene, the main gate in the southern side of the fort
Lawana Melai near the southwestern corner of the citadel
Even some tombs have pineapples too
Along the eastern and southern sides of the enclosure, we were treated with refreshing views of the verdant forests covering the hills around the fortress. The color of the stones on some parts of the walls was visibly different than the rest, indicating restoration work done in the past. While circumambulating the perimeter of the walls certainly helped us appreciate the scale of this citadel, we knew we had to also check out the historical heart of the compound, none other than Masigi Ogena, the palace’s mosque near the main gateway of the fortress.
First commissioned toward the end of the 16th century as a modest prayer hall, the mosque was upgraded in the 18th century under the auspices of the 19th sultan of Buton. The wooden walls were replaced with more durable stones, and the fronds of the nipa palm were used for the roofs. In 1929, the 37th and penultimate sultan gave the order to substitute the fronds with corrugated iron sheets, giving the structure its current appearance. Next to it was Kasulana Tombi, a tall pole made of teak wood that was standing on struts. Commissioned around the same time as the mosque, it was used to hoist the sultanate’s triangular banner called Longa-longa. However, in the 19th century a lightning strike damaged it, and today it is enclosed in protective steel frames to ensure its survival for many more years to come.
We checked out the area around the mosque and saw several other buildings that are significant to the sultanate’s history, including a roofed structure that protects a sacred stone from the elements. This was where Buton’s rulers were sworn in, and an old tradition dictated that a new king or sultan would place his or her left then right foot on the stone during the ceremony. As we strolled around the area, a middle-aged woman approached us with paper tickets in hand. Apparently, this was the only place within the fortress with a ticket ‘booth’ – for the lack of a better word. She explained to us that officially the compound was open to tourists from 8 a.m. until sunset – when she or her colleagues were around. But technically we could go in whenever we wished since the gates were always open.
On another day, we returned to the fortress to visit the former palaces. A little further uphill from the mosque were Kamali Bata and Kamali Kara, the former being the residence of the 32nd sultan of Buton who ruled at the turn of the 20th century, while the latter was built by the 37th sultan who also commissioned Malige Palace in downtown Baubau. Curiously, the royal residences built within the fortress are much smaller and less impressive than Malige Palace, and they were also in a worse state of preservation during our visit.
At the northern side of the defensive walls, the low-rise skyline of Baubau as well as the Buton Strait and the island of Muna were laid before our eyes. It truly afforded a commanding view of these strategically important waters during the height of the maritime spice trade centuries ago, a vantage point fit for rulers. Today, however, Baubau is a small city with a pace that is much slower and more relaxed than that of Jakarta, the beating hub of trade and commerce of modern-day Indonesia where we live. As we stood near some beautiful traditional Butonese houses looking out to the north of the city, a passenger jet took off and banked to the west. It was one of only two scheduled flights serving the island – one in the morning and another in the afternoon.
The sun began to slip toward the horizon, and soon we left the walled citadel with a deeper respect for the place and the people who built it. But we knew this was not the only fortification the Butonese erected, and the prospect of seeing other lesser-known forts on the island got us even more excited.
These Butonese houses have the best views of Baubau
Of course, there is a dragon and a pineapple
There is something visually appealing about this architectural style
Some newer structures still conform to the essence of Butonese architecture
Exquisite buildings near the main mosque of the sultanate
The current incarnation of Masigi Ogena
Schoolchildren practicing for the celebration of the independence day of Indonesia
Kasulana Tombi and the steel frames around it
Kamali Kara, built by the same sultan who commissioned Malige Palace
The former royal enclosure of the now-defunct Sultanate of Buton
Kamali Bata, the residence of the 32nd sultan of Buton
Baluara Lantongau at the western side of the fortress
Old cannons at Baluara Gundu-gundu at the northwestern corner of the citadel
The city of Baubau as viewed from the fortress
That plane was leaving for Makassar as one of only two scheduled flights serving Baubau
What an Amazing World! 
Lovely! An Indonesian Acropolis, indeed! Very surprising that locals thought you weren’t Indonesian, but perhaps it goes to show just how ethnically-diverse the country is? The ruins look stunning and there’s a lot of Indonesian history that much of the world doesn’t know about! Thanks for sharing the Buton Palace Fortress with us, Bama 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I don’t know why, but sometimes other Indonesians think I’m a foreigner. But it is true that Indonesia is such an ethnically-diverse country with hundreds of languages spoken. When I was exploring this fortress, I thought to myself that the would should know more about this place. Thanks for reading, Rebecca!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Quite lovely. They must have been surprised when you spoke Bahasa…
(Jumpa lagi!)
Brian
LikeLiked by 1 person
They certainly were. But I think one or two kids kept insisting on saying a few Japanese or Chinese words they knew. We just smiled at them.
LikeLiked by 1 person
How interesting. It must have been a relaxing trip as well as informative. The graves markers within the fort reminded of ones in Singapore’s Muslim Quarter.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was nice that there were almost no other tourists in sight, but I think more people should know about this fascinating place. I understand why those grave markers remind you of the ones you saw in Singapore. There are indeed similarities.
LikeLiked by 1 person
wow, how stunning !
LikeLiked by 1 person
This fortress and the island of Buton as well as the neighboring island of Muna are really underrated. But that means whoever goes there will most likely have a lot of places to him/herself.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Indonesia really has so many gems to discover! Good job on sharing this place with us!!! X
LikeLiked by 1 person
Absolutely! This trip to Buton really made me wish I had at least a few more months to explore Indonesia.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Fascinating. I particularly like the architecture of the houses; very unique. (Suzanne)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Exploring the vernacular architecture of Indonesia can indeed be an adventure in and of itself.
LikeLike
What a great find. The fortress walls, those adorable houses, and of course the view. The fortress looks like it takes over a large portion of the island. Did you have pineapple? You compared its quiet pace compared to Jakarta, any thoughts of relocating? Maggie
LikeLiked by 1 person
Actually Buton itself is not necessarily a small island. It’s roughly the same size with the island of Trinidad in the Caribbean. But as you can see, the fortress really is an imposing structure that overlooks the city of Baubau. We did have pineapples, but only at the hotel. Maybe it wasn’t in season so we didn’t see it more elsewhere in the city. As much as I enjoyed the slower pace of Baubau, I’m a city person at heart. I love the easy access to almost everything that Jakarta offers. Plus, it would be very difficult for me to travel if I live in a place where the airport only serves two flights per day.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes that’s true, and would add a few hours to each trip. 😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
“A few” is an understatement given how vast Indonesia is.😁 But yeah, if I ever live in a place with a slower pace than Jakarta, it will probably be still somewhere in Java.
LikeLike
The sweeping city views from the fortress are so beautiful and so is the architecture – I’ve never seen anything quite like it. It looks like a wonderful place worth visiting, particularly for history enthusiasts and those seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
Baubau is a gem more people should know about (or not?). It has interesting historical sites, great food, unique traditional architecture, and nice beaches. Thanks Aiva, and have a great weekend!
LikeLiked by 1 person
🥰🥰🥰
LikeLiked by 1 person
I enjoyed this visual and detailed walkthrough. You’re right, there is both a pragmatic and philosophical meaning behind elevated fortresses – as a strategic military positioning and as a societal alignment with the Gods and enlightenment.
I get the dragon iconography but the prominence of pineapples is interesting! I do love tamarind too and when we have it in our food here, it’s a rare treat.
It’s funny you were not recognized as a local. Do you think it was because James was with you?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Temples, palaces, or fortresses built on higher ground are quite common in many parts of the world. From the Acropolis in Greece to Sigiriya in Sri Lanka, every single one of them must have interesting stories beyond the physical structures that are worth exploring.
When I was little, pineapple was one of my favorite fruits. But I remember I wasn’t too enthusiastic about tamarind back then. It’s a different story now, though.
Actually I started noticing how I’m often perceived as a non-local way before I started traveling with James. It’s funny because a guy from Uruguay who I met in China thought I was Maori, some random people I met in Sri Lanka thought I was Japanese, a lot of Filipinos in Manila thought I was a local, and in my own country some people think I’m a foreigner. 😆
LikeLiked by 1 person
I could see why you pass for Japanese or Filipino! 😊
Pineapples are one of my favourite fruits. It’s not natural to here, so when we do get them here, they are a treat!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wait until we meet one day, because photos can be deceiving! 🤣
LikeLiked by 1 person
I hope that happens! 😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
I really enjoyed this post Bama, your comparison of Buton Palace Fortress to an “Acropolis” is spot on. I didn’t realise it’s considered the largest fortress in the world, which makes its relative obscurity even more fascinating!! Your photos are beautiful and I love all the views.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Some people do claim it’s the largest fortress in the world. But I think this is a bit far-fetched. It’s big, for sure, but I guess I need to see more fortresses that are also considered among the largest on the planet to see how the one in Buton compares to them. Thanks Hannah!
LikeLiked by 1 person
You write such a beautifully layered portrait of Baubau’s “acropolis.” It has me thinking about how I’ve yet to explore Indonesia, and need to for both the adventure in finding such treasures like this—and to learn more about culture & life. The way you weave the fortress’s political history, and everyday life (as well as the temple on the hilltop) makes it easier to feel both the history (monumental) and yet also a lot about today’s world… I love this mix of feeling. Your photos help as well—the scenes of traditional houses, pineapples, and tombs set against those wide views of the strait, a perfect calm. Wishing you a wonderful Sunday.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Much appreciated, Randall. You really should visit Indonesia. Yes, Bali is very popular (although its cultural scene is still worth seeing since it’s very colorful and unique). But the country is so vast there are so many much quieter corners like Baubau waiting to be explored. If you do plan to go, feel free to drop me an email. I’ll be more than happy to share some recommendations. I hope your Sunday has been nice and relaxing as well!
LikeLike
It’s incredible to hear just how large the Buton Palace Fortress is. And how amazing to have it mostly all to yourselves to explore. I wonder what the significance of the pineapple is.
LikeLiked by 1 person
What I read is the local people see the pineapple as a very adaptable plant which can grow in many parts of the world. It’s a symbol as to how the Butonese expect themselves to be: a people who can thrive anywhere they go.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Bama, as you know, Buton Palace Fortress was the place I was most interested in visiting while in Baubau, and it certainly did not disappoint! The size of the walled area combined with the sweeping views over the city and harbor made it very impressive, though there could have been some sort of small museum or information center on the main square to add more historical context. Since Baubau is far off the tourist circuit that might be wishful thinking, though! And a small, sensitively designed hotel or guest house would give curious travelers a taste of what it’s like to live within the walls. I did love the fact that the fortress was still inhabited by ordinary people going about their daily lives.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I think there’s actually a small museum inside the fortress (Badai might have mentioned it when we met him last year). But from what I found online it looks like they have mostly photos as well as a few unlabeled artifacts. I’m not sure how far it is from the main square though. Buton Palace Fortress definitely has a great potential, and your suggestion about a well-thought-out accommodation within the walled compound is a good place to start.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Your detailed research is always impressive. I like that you also got a picture of a cat too. You could get a job doing historical research.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Much appreciated, Matt. Maybe I really should consider it. It probably suits me better than my current job. 😄
LikeLiked by 1 person