Liuhe Night Market in Kaohsiung
During the day, the oppressive heat and humidity of the southern Taiwanese city of Kaohsiung can be a real challenge for those who are not used to them. However, when the sun goes down, not only do temperatures drop to a more bearable level, but parts of the city also transform into lively places for sampling authentic Taiwanese dishes and snacks. Better known as night markets, these are institutions that have become inseparable from the people’s daily life in the country. Their vibrancy and the great varieties of food they offer also attract another bunch of folks: international tourists, like me and James.
We were lucky to stay at a hotel only a few blocks away from Liuhe (also spelled Liouhe) Night Market, one of the most famous in Kaohsiung. From morning to afternoon, the so-called Liuhe Second Road appeared to be just a normal bustling street with a mix of shops, offices, and residential buildings. However, after sundown only foot traffic was allowed on the street, turning it into its more exciting alter ego. Lining both sides of the pedestrian-only thoroughfare were carts selling everything delicious, from oyster omelet to xiao long bao (probably the most famous type of Chinese dumpling with a soup filling), gua bao (flat steamed bun filled with pork belly, pickled mustard greens, and ground peanut sugar) to ba-wan (a gelatinous dumpling made of starch and rice flour filled with meat and vegetables). One of the most interesting things we tried was a local version of the hot dog in which the bun is made of sticky rice instead of bread. However, my personal favorite of all the things we had at the night market was freshly-made papaya milk that tasted way better than the factory-made versions I’d had before – the first time I had this beverage was in Lanyu (Orchid Island) back in 2013.
Unsurprisingly, we went to Liuhe Night Market several times due to its convenient location. But it was evident that this place was very popular given the constant crowds we encountered – it’s just a few steps away from the Formosa Boulevard MRT station, the city’s main metro interchange, which makes it very easy to reach. James told me about another night market he had heard of which supposedly caters more toward the locals, and although it’s located further to the north, it’s also conveniently situated quite close to the red line of the city’s MRT network.
One night, we took the northbound metro and got off at the Kaohsiung Arena MRT station, alluding to the nearby indoor stadium that serves as the home base of the city’s professional basketball team, the Kaohsiung Aquas. After only a few minutes’ walk, we arrived at Ruifeng Night Market with a decidedly more laid-back and less rushed ambiance. Some of the stalls sold food, snacks, and beverages similar to what we found at Liuhe Night Market, but we went to Ruifeng to try different things. First, we had a roast duck wrap. Then, we were drawn to another stall that does handmade mochi and ordered six different flavors. But the unassuming dish that stole the show that night for us was the Taiwanese large fried chicken – butterflied chicken breast that is coated in a flavorful mix of seasonings before being deep fried. It was so juicy, savory, and dangerously addictive.
We probably gained a few kilograms from our visits to both night markets. However, this is something anyone going to Taiwan should experience, for they always offer delectable delicacies you might otherwise have difficulty finding elsewhere outside of the country. And trust me, your taste buds will thank you later!
Kaohsiung Main Public Library at night
Exploring the city at night is not only more pleasant than during the day, but also felt very safe
A tofu-based dish we had at one night when we didn’t go to any of the city’s night markets
Kaohsiung Main Station at night, with its Japanese-era old station building brightly lit
We enjoyed this beef noodle soup so much we ended up going back to the same restaurant several times
Time to explore Liuhe Night Market
First stop: oyster omelet and xiao long bao
Oysters and shrimps for all the omelets of the night
The first of many rounds of food
This dog was fixated on the food being served at a nearby table
Pork-wrapped spring onions
A Taiwanese take on the hot dog
Grilling makes everything taste good
The gua bao we had at Liuhe Night Market
The glutinous ba-wan we tried out of curiosity
For dessert, we had this tofu pudding with boba (tapioca pearls)
The always busy Liuhe Night Market
Enter the more laid-back ambiance of Ruifeng Night Market
The roast duck wrap with fillings of different textures and flavors
These mochis were just too irresistible
Another corner of the night market
Go here for really delicious Taiwanese large fried chicken
The chicken we had was so juicy and tasty
Taiwanese pepper bun
What an Amazing World! 
Night markets are an indelible part of Taiwanese culture: given it’s so hot during the day, it makes sense for Kaohsiung to come alive at night due to cooler temperatures. I’ve not been to Kaohsiung and its night markets, but I’ve had incredible eats at those in Taipei, Hualien, and Taichung. Fried chicken is a must, as well as classics like stinky tofu, oyster pancake, etc. I’m salivating as I’m typing this…thanks for sharing your adventure, Bama: now, I need to return to Taiwan sooner than later!
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I didn’t explore Taipei’s night markets as much as I should when I went in 2013. I’m really curious about the ones in Taichung though. I hope you were not reading this post on an empty stomach, Rebecca! It’s always a good idea to go back to Taiwan and explore more.
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Sad that I’m at the age when even a second round of food seems too much
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I understand, I.J. Luckily, most of what I ate at those night markets in Kaohsiung were in small portions, making it possible to try different stalls on the same day. But we stayed in this city for about a week anyway, so we had plenty of time.
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All your dishes look mouthwatering! I made the mistake of reading this on my subway commute to work and now I’m hungry! 😊
It’s on my wishlist to visit a night market in Taiwan. We have Asian Night Markets in Toronto and they are great for what they are – stinky tofu included – but I can only imagine the real authentic experience.
The fried chicken and the roast duck wrap sound and look delicious – and ditto the desserts. I’ll also have to look into the local main library. Always interested in public library approaches around the world!
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Oh oops! 😆 I hope you’ve had your breakfast by now.
Oh you should go to the night markets in Taiwan, Ab! While there are dishes that seem to be available wherever you go, some are more like regional specialties. But even for the same snack, each city has its own take on it.
I grew up eating a lot of fried chickens, but now I try to choose healthier options whenever possible. However, while in Taiwan, I knew I had to try their famous fried chicken. And I’m glad I did!
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There is just something special about Taiwanese fried chicken – must be the way it’s prepared and also the mix of spices used!
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And the size! What we had was really big, so it was a good decision to just buy one and share it.
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Given that in Ireland temperatures rarely reach 20 °C, I would most likely suffer greatly due to heat and humidity, but I love the idea of exploring the Night Market once the night falls and the heat retreats. While I’ve never been to one, they seem to be incredible places because they are vibrant hubs of culture, commerce, and community, offering a unique sensory experience through diverse food, unique shopping, and lively entertainment. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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The heat and humidity of Kaohsiung might be shocking to you. But as long as you wear the right clothes, drink a lot of water, and apply sunscreen I think you’ll be fine. The city has many things to see by day and at night. And you have to visit at least one of the night markets and sample some local dishes and snacks.
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I remember visiting this night market when I was in Kaoshiung for a business trip in 2013. It’s a small night market of just 1 street but still there were plenty of food stalls to choose from.
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The number of food stalls was enough to question my ability to eat a lot. There were some interesting dishes that I didn’t get to try because I made sure not to overstuff myself. I wonder if some of the stalls you saw in 2013 were still there when I went two years ago.
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Yum! I visited two night markets, one in Taipei and another in Kenting, but Kaoshiung looks more lively and had greater variety of food than the ones I visited.
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One thing I regret from my trip to Taipei in 2013 was that while I did try some local snacks, I didn’t really explore the city’s night markets. Now you make me curious about the taste of the food in Kenting.
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I was very fascinated by the street market in Hongkong and your great pictures of Kaohsiung remind me of those very special days! Many thanks, Bama:)
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I think in general Asia has great night markets, and the food one can find there is usually very good. I’m glad this post brought back some fond memories from your trip to Hong Kong, Martina.
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:):)
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Here is the link to my old blog post with photos. Not sure if those stalls were still around when you visited.
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That papaya milk stall looks familiar though. It could be the same place that I went to, but then different stalls tend to share similar look anyway.
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Incredible photos, Bama, they make me want to travel to Kaohsiung and just enjoy the food and the ambiance. You have a knack for finding and sharing such places 😊. A post made even more wonderful with your storytelling, as if I’m wandering the lively night markets of Kaohsiung right with you. The way anyplace transforms when night arrives is special, but in Asia, there is something even more fascinating about the atmosphere of night markets; here, a unique charm of Taiwan at night.
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As I get older, I tend to gravitate toward local food whenever I travel. That’s why in Kaohsiung I knew the night markets were something I shouldn’t miss, especially after making the mistake of not properly exploring those in Taipei more than a decade ago. Night is the time when people look for avenues to release their stress after work, and pleasing one’s palate is certainly a great way to do just that.
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We rarely go out at night while travelling, largely because we tend to get up early to start exploring and are so tired by the time the evening rolls around. It’s funny how a city can look so different at night. The Night Markets sound like a neat (and delicious) experience. I’m salivating over those mochis.
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Me neither. It’s very rare for me to still be out after 9pm. That’s why when I do go out and explore a city after sunset, it has to be worthwhile. The night markets in Kaohsiung were enough reason to do just that.
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Night markets are such vibrant places with the lights, aromas of food stalls and of course many people. I wouldn’t share many of your dishes, but I’d enjoy wandering the streets with you two. Maggie
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Actually you’re right. You don’t necessarily have to try all the food to enjoy the night markets in Kaohsiung. You can soak up the lively ambiance just by walking around and taking a peek at what each stall has to offer.
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Mmmh, give me a steamed bun and I’m a happy man. This wasn’t a post to read while hungry, Bama!
In terms of weather, how was Taiwan compared to Jakarta? I’ve been to Hong Kong at the tail end of the summer (and the Ryukyus) and I was, well, a human fountain pretty much all day long. Is it any different from your neck of the woods in Indonesia?
Fabrizio
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Oops! Can you find a good place that does good Taiwanese food in your part of the world?
You know, Jakarta is hot and humid all year round. Although around July and August it’s relatively more pleasant since we have cold air blowing in from Australia (their winter). But in Semarang, my hometown in the central part of Java, the heat and humidity can feel oppressive just like in Kaohsiung at the end of September/early October. Northern Taiwan shouldn’t be as hot though.
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Sadly, I think I live in a Taiwanese cuisine black hole over here! In all honesty, I don’t know how you guys deal with the weather you have over there. I remember being in shorts and short sleeves in November in Hong Kong, while locals were donning puffer jackets! Back in the Ryukus – and bear in mind this was in October – we could spot the westerners by how sweaty they were (as were we). I suppose, if I were to live there, I’d eventually get used to it, but I don’t know how long it’d take. Fabrizio
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Even for me, it took me a while to get used to the heat and humidity of the coastal cities in Java since I grew up in smaller cities with more temperate climes. Can you imagine those Dutch colonizers donning their European attires in a tropical place like Batavia (the old name of Jakarta)? If you have to live in a hot city, I think eventually your body will acclimatize. Getting comfortable? Maybe no. But at least it’ll get used to it.
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I suspect the average Dutch wasn’t living in Jakarta for too long – in the sense that they’d soon be going to relocate past the pearly gates!
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Not to mention all the tropical diseases!
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You have me salivating over the photos of foods! And here I am in bland land. Actually, not so bland right now but nothing like these night markets!
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I guess you’re in Serbia now? I might be biased, but I do think that in general Asian cities do have great food scenes where you can find all sorts of snacks and local delicacies.
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I loved the night markets in both Taiwan and Hong Kong, Bama. They contain so much of what I associate life there with.
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You can never go wrong with Asian night markets. They’re always lively, and they’re filled with stalls selling good food.
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Liuhe and Ruifeng gave us two completely different Taiwanese night market experiences in Kaohsiung. Good thing we had time to visit both of them! Though I loved the fresh papaya milk at Liuhe, I did prefer Ruifeng for its food (the mochi, pepper bun, and fried chicken were standouts), intimate vibe, and more local-oriented character. Thanks Bama for this mouth-watering post!
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Thank you for researching both night markets, James. Due to the language barrier, I don’t think I would have tried as many dishes and drinks had I gone to these places by myself. I still remember how tasty and juicy that fried chicken was. My late mom would have approved it even though the snack was made from chicken breast.
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Oh my, this was not the right thing to read on an empty stomach! Everything sounds so delicious! I love these types of food markets, especially in the evening. Maybe that’s because we don’t have things like this where I live, but it always feels so special to go in, blend with the crowd and just taste everything that you like!
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Oh, oops! I hope you grabbed something to eat in the end. Tasting everything that looks interesting really is one of the biggest appeals of night markets in Taiwan. Chances are you’ll find yourself munching more snacks and dishes than what you have planned.
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