Candi Barong and the Prayer for Abundance

by Bama
December 28, 2023
53 comments
Asia, Indonesia, Southeast

Candi Barong on a beautiful, sunny day

It shouldn’t come as a surprise why we are the dominant species on Earth today, so much so a geological epoch called the Anthropocene has been proposed due to the dramatic and profound impact humans have had on the planet. We are capable of creating new things, inventing tools to help solve our problems, innovating the way we live our lives, and modifying whatever is around us for our benefit. However, even with such great power we are often confronted with circumstances where we feel we have no control over them, situations that seem to be too hard and difficult to handle with only what we’ve got. That’s when we turn to a higher power because the idea of it – a supreme being who rules over the universe – can indeed help us get by despite everything.

Ancient people all over the world built temples dedicated to their respective gods and goddesses often for specific reasons. Sanctuaries for the healing deities (including Apollo for the ancient Greeks or Isis for the ancient Egyptians) were erected to cure ailments and to ward off plagues. While rain gods (like the Maya god Chaac and his ancient Mesopotamian equivalent Hadad) got their own temples considering the importance of water to sustain a community. On a hill at the heart of Java, where the local people relied on agriculture for their livelihood in an area whose limestone soil was not ideal for growing rice, a temple was commissioned to ensure the continuity of the water supply to the surroundings.

Situated about 3 km south of Candi Sojiwan, Candi Barong was constructed on stepped terraces probably around the 9th or 10th century CE. While inscriptions explicitly mentioning this ancient temple have yet to be found – those that have been discovered only vaguely hint at a sanctuary some scholars think might have alluded to Candi Barong – its architectural similarities with other Hindu shrines of the Medang kingdom make many believe it was also built during this era. The three-level stepped platforms onto which Candi Barong was erected, however, are unique to this temple. Such a feature predates the advent of Hinduism on the island, adding to the temple compound’s appeal and mystery.

Like most ancient Hindu and Buddhist temples of Java that fell into obscurity following the adoption of Islam by the majority of the island’s population, Candi Barong was also eventually abandoned. Fortunately, restoration work began in 1987, and the project was only concluded in 1999, one year after the Asian financial crisis that hit Indonesia especially hard. During the excavation of the site, statues of Vishnu (Wisnu) and Sri (the pre-Hindu Javanese goddess of rice who was incorporated into the Hinduism practiced on the island at that time) were unearthed near the west-facing temple. This was rather unusual since Shiva (Siwa), the Hindu god of destruction, was more commonly revered at the many east-facing temples that were the norm in this part of Java. Also, the main sanctuaries’ location further away from the center point of the temple ground is atypical for the central Javanese architectural layout where the sanctum usually sits at the heart of the compound.

As the Hindu god of preservation and protector of the cosmic order from chaos and evil, Vishnu was aptly chosen by the local populace of this hill where rice cultivation proved to be very challenging. Adjacent to the shrine dedicated to him stands an equally well-decorated structure consecrated for Sri. Together, they symbolized the wish for adequate water to ensure a good harvest as long as the heavens permitted. Having that sense of assurance must have helped the locals carry on with fortitude.

And despite everything, we have finally reached the end of 2023. Happy New Year! May 2024 be filled with an abundance of good things.

The staircase that brings visitors to the middle level of the stepped terraces

Ascending to the compound from the west

The ancient walls of the second terrace

The main sanctuaries on the upper level

Walking on ancient stone blocks

The paduraksa gate of the inner compound

How to tell the new stone blocks from the original ones

Kala-makara and floral decorations

Entering the most sacred part of the temple compound

The temples for Vishnu (left) and Sri

Bas-reliefs on almost every layer of the structure

The kala head was supposed to look menacing, but to some it looks rather friendly

It’s incredible how relatively intact Candi Barong is after all these centuries

A conch, one of the main attributes of Vishnu

This side…

…and this side might look identical, but they’re actually different

Rectangular, diamond-shaped, and floral patterns carved more than 1,000 years ago

We had the entire temple compound to ourselves

One last peek

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Based in Jakarta, always curious about the world, always fascinated by ancient temples, easily pleased by food.

53 thoughts on “Candi Barong and the Prayer for Abundance”

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      The same wishes go to you, Matt. I’m in Hong Kong right now, first time since the pandemic. This trip has been particularly inspiring in many ways. I hope you’ll get to visit this city again in the future.

      Like

  3. Ab's avatar
    Ab says:

    I enjoyed this tour of Candi Barong, Bama. It’s interesting to see that across cultures there are so many similarities in the belief of a creator or creators and how temples or statues/idols are created for worship in the hope of protection and abundance in return. Faith is truly a powerful thing that can heal and comfort (and also be destructive, I realize).

    I can’t believe we are nearing the end of another year. Wishing you and your mom a wonderful new year ahead!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      I totally agree with what you said about the two sides of faith. Understanding this reality is key to keeping us away from most of the negative effects our belief — whatever that might be.

      I hope you’re having a good end of the year with your husband, T, and the people you love, Ab! I hope 2024 will be kind to all of us.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Suzanne et Pierre's avatar
    Suzanne et Pierre says:

    Beautiful place and nicely photographed. We really have to make it to Indonesia sooner than later…really too many places we would like to visit.

    Our best wishes for 2024…lots of adventures and travel for you…(Suzanne)

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      Merci, Suzanne. Too many places to visit indeed. And if you do decide to fly all the way to Indonesia one day, choosing where to go will be another challenge since it is a big country (much bigger than what a lot of people think).

      I’m in Hong Kong right now, and when I get back to Jakarta I’ll have to check out the stories from your latest trip. They always inspire me to travel more. Wishing you a fulfilling year ahead!

      Like

      • Suzanne et Pierre's avatar
        Suzanne et Pierre says:

        I do know that Indonesia is a big country with lots of different islands…so not easy to do it all in one trip but we will have to find a way to get to most of the highlights. I think it might be one reason we haven’t made it yet to your country as it requires a bit more planning.

        Have fun in Hong Kong and glad our blog inspire you…

        Liked by 1 person

      • Bama's avatar
        Bama says:

        Should you ever need suggestions of what places to see in Indonesia, please drop me a message.

        Like

  7. Rebecca's avatar
    Rebecca says:

    What an impressive site! Candi Barong is large and imposing and definitely worth learning more about its history amidst Indonesian culture. Thanks for sharing!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      And it’s further away from the main tourist trail. It was so quiet and peaceful when I was there. Thanks for reading, Rebecca. I wish you a good year ahead.

      Liked by 1 person

  10. Rama Arya's avatar
    Rama Arya says:

    Fabulous post, as always. I love the way you write. Your introduction in this post is so beautifully crafted. Wishing you great travels this coming year, and just as much creative genius which comes through many more great posts! 💕

    Liked by 1 person

  11. neelstoria's avatar
    neelstoria says:

    Lovely temple, so good that it was restored. The positivity that this post exudes is the best. Is this a functional temple? Not sure I got that. Also, I always notice the similarity of the temple structures with those of the ancient temples in South India.
    Happy New Year, Bama! May this year be one of your best so far.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      It is no longer used as an active place of worship since the majority of the local residents in this area are Muslim now. But it’s not uncommon to find burned incense and/or floral offerings at ancient temples like this across Java since many people still practice aspects of Hinduism that used to be the dominant religion on the island. You have a sharp eye! Millennia ago, there were a lot of cultural exchanges between kingdoms in southern India and those in what is now the Indonesian archipelago. This explains the similarities you noticed on the temples.

      Happy New Year to you too, Neel! Wishing you a great year ahead!

      Liked by 1 person

  12. ourcrossings's avatar
    ourcrossings says:

    Wow, what a truly remarkable place to explore ancient civilization on Yogyakarta’s Shiva Plateau offering rejuvenating air and beautiful panorama as well as plentiful history. It always amazes me how these ancient structures, located deep in Indonesia’s varied landscapes and built thousands of years ago, can still prompt travellers to discover their architectural and spiritual wonders. I’d like to channel my inner serenity and prepare to be awe-inspired by their quiet spirituality one day, too. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day. Also, as it is already 2024 – Happy New Year! May all your dreams take flight 🙂 Cheers, Aiva xx

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      There are a lot of ancient temples like this in Yogyakarta as well as the provinces of Central and East Java. But I must admit, when I was little I took those beautiful structures for granted. I hope you can see some of them one day, Aiva. Happy New Year! I hope 2024 brings you even more memorable travels.

      Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      And there are several ancient sites across Java that have only been restored recently. I wonder how many more are still hidden beneath our feet, waiting to be rediscovered. Wishing you a great year ahead being a new parent!

      Liked by 1 person

  14. Jolandi Steven's avatar
    Jolandi Steven says:

    Your first paragraph is such an excellent piece of writing, Bama, and a wonderful way to introduce the mystery surrounding Candi Barong. Wishing you a year filled with wonderful travel memories, as well as many moments of joy and peace.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      Thanks a lot, Jolandi. I think to truly appreciate places like Candi Barong we need to understand the context of why they were built. Hence the back story. I wish you a calm year ahead at the quinta!

      Like

  15. Albi's avatar
    Albi says:

    Wow, what an amazing journey. You inspire me. Thanks for your blog, I have read 2 to 5 of it and I love it. The first blog I read its about Pagaruyuang Palace in West Sumatra and I love the details information about it. And again, “Tarimo Kasih”. salam dari Ranah Minang.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      Bloggers inspire each other. 🙂 It was nice that when my friend and I visited the places we went to in West Sumatra we had a local driver who explained to us the customs of orang Minang. Hence the blog post on Istano Basa Pagaruyung. Glad you enjoyed it!

      Like

  17. Alison and Don's avatar
    Alison and Don says:

    Reading this account Bama I was reminded of my own foray into the history and myth of the God of Rice in Japan. Ancient cultures certainly knew what was important to them. I’m so glad Candi Barong was preserved.
    Happy New Year!
    Alison

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      Ahh yes, I also find the story of Inari as the kami of rice, among other things, very fascinating. I also think in many ancient cultures nature was more revered and respected. Happy New Year too, Alison!

      Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      Thank you, Bill and Debbie! You’ve probably noticed by now that I have a penchant for anything ancient. Wishing you more meaningful travels as well in 2024!

      Like

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      There’s so much we still don’t know about this ancient temple, but I hope one day we will uncover more of its mysteries. Happy New Year to you too, Juliette. Wishing you a year filled with cool adventures and travels!

      Liked by 1 person

  20. Bespoke Traveler's avatar
    Bespoke Traveler says:

    Wishing you a most marvelous new year Bama! Your photos of Candi Barong bring back happy reminisces of wandering through the ancient temples at Siem Reap, Cambodia – similar architecture, construction, and artwork. While I realize the improvement of rationality in modern sensibilities, there is something rather wonderful about the ancestors’ practice of ascribing a deity to every working feature of the natural world. I like the litany of devotion: rice god, rain god, thunder god, honey god, rainforest god….

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      I’m glad you brought up Siem Reap. It is where I went on an overseas holiday when international travel was possible again following the Covid pandemic, and what a wonderful trip it was! I myself see things rationally now, but I do see the virtue of ascribing a deity to the nature practiced by our ancestors.

      Wishing you a fulfilling year ahead, Atreyee!

      Liked by 1 person

  21. James's avatar
    James says:

    Bama, I hope 2024 brings you some fabulous trips and a great deal of happiness! It never fails to amaze me to see just how many ancient Hindu-Buddhist ruins there are around Yogyakarta. That fertile region really *was* the cradle of Javanese civilization. I wonder what the second terrace looked like during Candi Barong’s heyday in the 9th/10th century – perhaps there were some wooden pavilions and shrines like what we see in present-day Balinese temples.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      The same hope goes to you, James! It might feel that we’ve seen a lot of ancient temples around Yogyakarta, but there are actually still many we have yet to visit. Candi Barong was particularly high on my wish list for quite some time. That’s why it felt special to finally see it in person. For sure, its multiple terraces also piqued my curiosity.

      Liked by 1 person

  22. Madhu's avatar
    Madhu says:

    Beautiful writing Bama. And I do love these smaller temples. Just back from exploring many such in the Tamil hinterland. From the state of things on the planet, it seems like even our collective gods have given up on mankind.

    Yes, always relieved and grateful to have a whole new year to look forward to. Hope yours has started well. Belated new year wishes to you and your mom.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar
      Bama says:

      Before deciding to visit Taiwan, we actually had this idea of going to Delhi. But then it was very hard to pick just one part of India to explore the next time we go. It’s really up to us whether we want to right all the wrongs mankind has done or not. But I can totally relate to your frustration.

      Thanks Madhu! Hope you and Ravi have a great year ahead!

      Liked by 1 person

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