Mount Sumbing, a 3,371-meter volcano in Central Java, with Mount Sindoro in the right background
Candi (pronounced chaan-dee). It is a broad term Indonesians use to refer to ancient structures dating back to a period in history when the archipelago was predominantly Hindu/Buddhist. It can be a temple, a bathing compound, a gate, basically anything even if its original purpose is unknown. Collectively, the candis in Indonesia have been a great source of fascination and inspiration for me, not only because of the incredibly fine and intricate sculpted ornaments adorning many of them, but also the fact that what we see today is just a fraction of what once was. A lot of candis were buried in thick volcanic ash thanks to the repeated eruptions of the fire mountains that have made this corner of the Earth very fertile. While dozens have been excavated, we don’t know for sure how many there are still hidden beneath our feet, forgotten but not lost.
The first time I visited the most famous ones, notably Borobudur and Prambanan, was when I was little on a trip with my mom, uncles, aunt, and cousins. I returned to these sites several years later, and again not too long after that, both on school trips. The two massive temple compounds are indeed popular destinations for Indonesian children as they offer an in-person experience in learning history as opposed to only reading about them in textbooks. I’ve cultivated such a deep interest in candis to the point where I’ve always tried to visit at least one candi every year since starting this blog in 2010. When the strict lockdown in Jakarta was partially lifted in late 2020, the first place I went to was in fact an ancient Buddhist temple compound just outside the city. Last year I was so close to seeing another candi, but the pandemic-related restrictions imposed in the area where the temple is located forced authorities to shut its gate for months.
When I told my mother that I would go back to Semarang to see her again in May this year, initially I had no plans to see a candi. But when she proposed the idea of going to Magelang – a city around a three-hour drive from where she lives – to visit one of my cousins, I instantly recalled a mental map in my head of the locations of candis in Central Java. Magelang particularly is an ideal stopover for anyone who wants to explore some of Java’s most intriguing candis, including the mighty Borobudur itself, Candi Mendut, and Candi Ngawen with its unique prancing lion sculptures. But I was looking for a candi that wouldn’t require a major detour from the road from Semarang to Magelang, and after a little research, Candi Selogriyo seemed like the best option.
Previously, I had read about a friend’s experience visiting this candi. She mentioned the hike to reach this site which she thoroughly enjoyed. There’s only a handful of other articles out there about this place, a telltale sign of how little is known about the ancient temple and the low number of visitors this site has seen. But luckily, the way to go there looked pretty easy to follow according to Google Maps.
On a fine Tuesday morning, my mother, her sister, and I left Semarang around 6:30am. As I drove on the Trans-Java toll road, it was very encouraging to see some of Central Java’s tallest peaks on the way to Magelang. The visibility was great, and I was hoping it would remain that way when I arrived at Candi Selogriyo. Two and a half hours into the journey, I followed a country road (branching out from the main route) that would take us to the village closest to the temple. What began as a flat stretch with unobstructed views of Mount Sumbing soon turned narrow with many twists and bends across hilly terrain. Fortunately, it was in good condition with very little traffic. I was more worried about my aunt in the back seat who’s usually very talkative but at this point became mostly silent. I wondered if she was having motion sickness.
At least she didn’t have to suffer for too long as 15 minutes later we arrived at the village where the trailhead is located. I parked the car near a local mosque with a shaded area where my mom and aunt could rest while waiting for me. Although my mom regularly cycles with her friends – about 30 kilometers each week – I know this hike is something she wouldn’t be able to do or enjoy doing. Let alone my aunt whose medical conditions don’t allow her to walk far and fast. It was best for them to stay in the car since I figured it would take around one hour for me to do the hike, see the temple, and go back.
Rice terraces at the beginning of the hike
I had only walked for a few minutes and the views were already this stunning
A small ticket booth right at the end of the hamlet
Hiking alone on a sunny day
Fertile land as far as the eye can see
Steps made for giants
As I walked past the gate to the hamlet of Campurejo, the narrow road immediately went up with a steep inclination. Google Maps said the temple was around two kilometers from here, which I knew would guarantee that I’d be drenched in sweat by the end of the hike. I kept walking along the main pathway, past some locals who smiled back at me when I smiled at them, before reaching a small ticket booth manned by a young woman. Beyond it, a narrow trail cut through a sun-kissed landscape dotted with rice terraces and verdant hills as if everything was trying to tell visitors: welcome!
I walked at a steady pace, soaking up the beautiful vistas around me while taking deep breaths of the fresh air. Since I went on a weekday, I didn’t meet any other visitors along the hike which only accentuated this place’s serene setting. Occasionally, I encountered local farmers who were diligently tending to their fields. But apart from that, it was only me and Mother Nature. Probably ten minutes into the hike, I started to wonder whether I would be able to see the temple from afar or not. There’s something exhilarating upon seeing an ancient structure emerging from the horizon, as if I were a pilgrim in an age when such an edifice was still actively used. So, naturally every time I walked past a bend I wondered, can I see the temple from here?
The answer to the same question that repeated in my head every few minutes or so was a resounding no. Candi Selogriyo, it seemed, was hidden from plain sight behind tall trees. Somewhere in the middle of the path, two pavilions jutted out from one side of the mountain slope, providing visitors with better viewpoints of the magnificent rice terraces across the ravine. I’ve read about this beautiful hike before, but I didn’t expect to see such terrific scenery. This location is a good example of how Java’s active volcanoes have rendered this land fertile where almost everything can grow abundantly. And speaking of volcanoes, the barren peak of Mount Sumbing was clearly visible from one of the viewpoints along the hike.
But where is the candi?
Where is the temple?
One of the pavilions can be seen in this photo
Mount Sumbing peeking in the background
Beauty at the heart of Java
It wasn’t until around 20 minutes after I left the ticket booth when I finally stumbled upon something indicating the presence of a temple nearby: a stone gate that seemed to be a modern addition rather than a part of the original structures. A short flight of stairs took me near the real entrance to the temple, from which I could point out the pinnacle of the candi. And after a few more steps, voilà! The first candi I visited this year stood before me.
Standing at an elevation of 740 meters above sea level, Candi Selogriyo’s origin is somewhat shrouded in mystery. No inscription mentioning this site has been discovered, leaving experts only with questions. However, based on its architectural style and location, a widely accepted consensus suggests that the Hindu temple might have been built around the eighth or ninth century CE. If there is no written documentation about it, then how could we know that this candi was Hindu? All you need to do is walk around the structure to see the statues in the temple’s niches. While most of them have lost their heads, their discernible figures are enough to point to the candi’s Hindu origin with absolute certainty.
In 1995, a landslide severely damaged Candi Selogriyo. But fortunately, restoration work was conducted soon afterward, and by 2005 its pre-disaster appearance had been completely reinstated. Despite being among the less popular candis, this site seemed to be well-maintained. In fact, when I was walking around the temple, a man was standing on top of the structure, cleaning it from unwanted materials that could damage its delicate sculpted ornaments as well as its structural integrity in the long run. Visiting candis that are located in such difficult terrain always amazes me, for they give me a glimpse of the determination and perseverance of the people who built them long before the invention of modern equipment. Meanwhile, some of us (who have no medical conditions) today might find the hike to reach this temple quite an ordeal. I wonder if we as a species are gradually evolving from Homo sapiens into Homo otiosum, “lazy human”.
It was a little over 10am, but the day was already really hot and my mom and aunt had been waiting for me for more than half an hour. It was time to go back to the car and head to the city of Magelang to see my cousin, her husband, and their four children. My mom was shocked to see me sweating profusely, but this was such a rewarding detour on a nice day with perfect weather. I couldn’t ask for better timing.
The gate near the temple grounds
The pinnacle of the temple
Candi Selogriyo, an ancient Hindu temple tucked away in a picturesque setting
Nandiswara (left) and Mahakala, guardians of the shrine
Agastya (left) and Ganesha, on the south and west sides of the temple, respectively
Despite its relative remoteness, this temple is well-maintained
A secluded hut
Looking east
Just another day for these local farmers
Rice kernels drying in the sun
Three volcanoes seen from the hamlet of Campurejo
One final look
Simple yet delicious sop senerek – a Magelang specialty – for lunch
What an Amazing World! 
Looks like a lovely visit. The temple is very impressive as is the photos of the hike…(Suzanne)
LikeLiked by 1 person
This was a piece of writing that made me feel I was walking with you when you were making your way to Seligriyo. Thank you
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m glad this blog post was able to transport you to this corner of Java, albeit vicariously. Thanks for reading!
LikeLike
It was a pleasant hike and I didn’t expect the landscape to be that beautiful. I showed a friend the photo of the rice terraces and he said they look just like the ones in Bali, without the tourists.
LikeLike
After visiting Angkor and Bagan, Borobodur completed what I consider a holy trinity of ancient sites, and I’m glad I visited them, but I definitely prefer sites like this one, Bama. And like you, I always marvel at how people tend to flock to only a handful of places, ignoring others. To be honest, I’m glad that happens, as it gives me a chance to visit more obscure places without the presence of others. I am also finding a deep satisfaction these days to explore through the eyes of others, as I doubt I will ever return to Indonesia, so experiencing this beautiful country filtered through your experiences, is a true delight. What a feast for the eyes the landscape is. All that green is so soothing, especially as I am surrounded by shades of brown or olive green at the moment. Like you, I’m always on the lookout for interesting places to stop on longer journeys. And you definitely did well in deciding to stop here, despite getting drenched in sweat.
LikeLiked by 2 people
It’s great that you’ve been to all three before the pandemic. Sometimes I feel Borobudur is rather overshadowed by Angkor and Bagan despite its massive size and intricate details. While I like seeing the major sights when I travel, I try to also include lesser-known places, for they often present a different kind of experience you can’t get from the former. Indonesia is so huge I think I will need another three months to cover places I didn’t go to during my Spice Odyssey seven years ago. While for now you can travel vicariously to this vast archipelago through my blog posts, never say never for the possibility of returning to Indonesia one day, Jolandi. 😊
LikeLike
Yip, one should never say never, Bama, as one cannot know what the future hold. BUT there are so many places on my bucket list, and unless I win some sort of lottery that one can win without entering, I’m not sure my finances will get me to even a tenth of these places. 😆 So for now, I will just tag along with you from the comfort of my couch. And like you say, Indonesia is such an enormous country that it can really take a lifetime to just explore that.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I can totally relate to that, Jolandi. There are countries I’d love to go back, but I often can’t resist the idea of visiting a new place. If only we could win some sort of lottery, indeed. 😄
LikeLike
Well, we can dream❣
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a beautiful hike you enjoyed that day and it’s wonderful that you are able to include your mom and aunt in the outing.
Indonesia looks like such a beautiful country and the volcano regions look particularly stunning but the emerald green and fertile grass and crops no doubt benefitting from the volcanic ash nutrients.
The temple looked like it was worth the hike. It’s always nice to see things built in the past that have such fine craftsmanship and spiritual meaning and that really last through time.
And I always enjoy the glimpses of local foods that you shared and your lunch, while simple, looked delicious!
LikeLiked by 1 person
My mom and aunt waited patiently in the car while I was doing the hike. Luckily, they brought a lot of snacks to entertain themselves. 😄
Despite its problems, Indonesia certainly is a beautiful country. But I feel many people here have been taking this land for granted and are rather indifferent about environmental protection.
I agree with what you said about the appeal of the things people built in the past — especially if they’re hundreds or thousands years old. There’s something fascinating about such places, which is why my ideal trip will certainly include a visit or two to ancient sites.
That sop senerek may look simple, but it packed a lot of flavors! I didn’t expect to enjoy it as much as I did.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s great that you included your mom and aunt in the day – even if they sat in the car. You all got something out of it en route to a family visit. 😊
Sadly, environmental protection is an issue all around the globe, even over here in North America. It makes me mad there are still people who believe it’s all a hoax when it’s probably the most pressing issue of our time.
Thanks for continuing to share Indonesia with the world!
LikeLiked by 1 person
When scientific facts are seen as hoaxes, we know as a society we have a lot of homework to do. This reminds me of what Neil deGrasse Tyson said in an interview. It’s not his job to debunk hoaxes. It is his job to educate people so that they have the correct understanding about things which won’t lead them to believing false information in the first place.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Simply magical! To hike in that beautiful landscape and come across such wonderful temples! Just great!
LikeLiked by 1 person
The perfect weather also helped. I imagine how different the hike would have turned out had it been raining. While I came to this place to see the ancient temple, the beautiful landscape was an unexpected bonus!
LikeLike
Haha yes, every hike is like that. When it’s raining that lovely trail can become a slippery mud bath! Nothing beats perfect hiking weather!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hi bama, what a treat! Heartwarming to see soo much vegetation and greenness! There seems to be so much climate destruction occurring in other parts of the planet.? I digress…the padi look so healthy..a relif to see. I would love to do that hike tho it would have to be even ealier in the day for me. What a feast for the eyes and im guessing for ears and noses. Makasih untuk membagi…mungkin tahun depan haaa rindu 😊
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hi Trees. I wonder if it’s been raining where you live. That reminds me I should make the most out of the (supposedly) dry season before wet season arrives. Fortunately, there are still quite a lot of places like this here on Java despite the fact that it’s the world’s most pooulated island. My hike to Candi Selogriyo certainly was a feast for the senses. It’s a world away from the pollution-choked city I’m living in. Really hope next year you’ll make it to Indonesia again!
LikeLike
😊🙏
LikeLiked by 1 person
Looks like such a wonderful day: the walk, the candi, and the meal
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m glad I did this trip before I started working again in early July because it’s always a good idea to visit places like this on a weekday.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Agter reading how this candi was not often visited and at the end of a hike I expected to have a picture of ruins. Instead the temple looks to be in good shape with sculptures and decorations still evident. Glad you took us with you this trek Bama. Maggie
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was nice to see how well-maintained the temple grounds were. You can tell the local office of the heritage conservation agency do their job wholeheartedly, which is very commendable.
LikeLike
Candi Selogriyo sure is a little gem – how special it must have been to be the only visitor there. After the passage of so many centuries, it amazes me that the original statues of the Hindu deities are still so well-preserved, except for the missing heads of course! I remember you raving about the weather after returning from that day trip. Can’t say I wasn’t jealous that you could see the volcanoes so clearly on the way to and from Magelang. And the picturesque rice terraces along the hike were such a lovely surprise.
LikeLiked by 2 people
You really should’ve tagged along, James! I kind of expected the sunny weather after regularly checking the weather forecast for a few days before the trip. But I didn’t anticipate the great visibility. I think you would also enjoy Magelang since the city is surrounded by many volcanoes and it wasn’t too hot.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Who wouldn’t want to step through that gate and climb, no matter how many steps to the top? The perfectly maintained grounds around the temple suggest the villagers are proud to live near a part of Indonesia’s ancient history.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s a really good observation, Mallee. I believe the people who live near the temple are proud of having this invaluable piece of history right on their doorstep.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh what a lovely hike you took me on! I totally related to your thoughts of being a pilgrim. I do the same thing. there are some little-used narrow forest trails near where I live and I always feel like an adventurer, an explorer as I hike them. We were away for two months in the spring this year and when we returned the trails were so overgrown I could hardly get through them, so I set about cutting the vegetation back being a real adventurer in urban Vancouver. Fun.
Your photos of the rice terraces are beautiful. Even without the Candi this looks like a great hike.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
The way you described those trails brings back memories from my childhood of a path behind my primary school. One day a classmate took me there which turned out to be a shortcut to get home. The narrow trail led us to a forest and I remember feeling super excited as we walked underneath a canopy of trees for a few minutes before emerging at the other end of the woodland. Many years later I told my mom about this and she was so shocked!
If you ever find yourself in this part of Java, you really should do this hike, Alison. I know you’ll love it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It is pretty incredible to think how much is still buried underground and has yet to be discovered. It’s neat that you’ve tried to visit at least one candi every year over the past decade. And glad to hear you’ve kept the tradition alive during the pandemic! The hike to reach the candi looks so lush and beautiful. And how lucky to have the trail all to yourself.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Even today, discoveries are still being made on a regular basis. At the moment there is a site in the eastern part of Java that I find particularly intriguing, for archaeologists managed to unearth large-sized decorative elements of a candi. A multi-year study has been conducted on it since the past few years and I really can’t wait for the day when they finally decide to reconstruct the temple (hopefully). Speaking of Candi Selogriyo, it is simply one of the best experiences of visiting a candi I’ve ever done so far.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m smiling Bama at the thought of your Mom and Aunt patiently waiting while you explored. I’m thankful to them and you for the virtual hike. The history and the yet to be found structures intrigue me a great deal.
LikeLiked by 1 person
If only it involved cycling, I know my mom would want to join me instead of just sitting idly in the car. But she’s not much of a walker, although lately she’s been trying to walk more. I’m sure you and Dave would find this hike quite easy, though.
LikeLiked by 1 person
What an incredibly pleasant morning walk! And thank you for the candi lesson, including the pronunciation. (I’ve been saying it in my head as “candy” for years!)
LikeLiked by 1 person
It really was a good exercise. If only I could do this a lot more often. I decided to include the pronunciation because I kind of guessed some people would think of candy when they say the word candi. (In Indonesian c is pronounced like ch in English, although not exactly the same.)
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh wow… what a beautiful walk to the temple. I love all those different shades of green. I probably would have melted on the way to the temple.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s always a good idea to bring extra t-shirts when doing hikes like this in Indonesia because it can get so hot and humid. But with such an incredibly beautiful landscape, I’m not complaining. 😃
LikeLike
So green and inviting. Lovely post!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I wonder if in a way this green landscape reminds you of Colombia’s tropical forests. Happy anniversary!
LikeLike
It’s really cool to be able to explore ancient structures while hiking a pleasant forest trail at the same time. Indonesia really has a diverse and complex past, and it’s good that historic Buddhist and Hindu temples still exist and haven’t been destroyed or vandalized. That candi you visited looks just one of those smaller temples in Angkor. Borobodur and Prambanan are definitely structures I want to visit in future.
LikeLiked by 1 person
There are more places like this on Java where you can find ancient Hindu/Buddhist temples located on hills and mountain slopes. People in the past venerated the tall peaks of the island as they were believed to be the abode of gods. Currently visitors are not allowed to climb Borobudur, but I hope when the time comes for you to see this magnificent structure in person, doing so will be possible again.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That’s an interesting belief which makes sense. It must have been hard though to carry up the material to build these stone temples, ha.
LikeLiked by 1 person
No doubt about it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Indonesia – what an amazing country. This post reminds me why I loved it there so much. First, it is stunningly beautiful – green, mountainous, with the best beaches I’ve ever seen. Then you have so much history and so many interesting cultures and languages.
I know farming is really hard work, but those rice farmers have one incredible office.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I remember how much you liked Indonesia after traveling across the country for a few months. I have to agree with what you said about the beaches, and because of this I often felt bad when I traveled abroad and met people who wanted to show me their beaches.
Any chance you’ll visit Indonesia again anytime soon-ish?
LikeLike
What a wonderful trek through such a green and lush area. The temple looks amazing! I have visited many temples across Thailand, Cambodia and China, however, Indonesia has eluded me thus far. I never doubted Bowie’s assertion that Java is a good place to live. This was a real treat, thanks for sharing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Hi Leighton. If you like ancient temples, you really should see the ones in Java, especially Borobudur and Prambanan. However, at the moment visitors are not allowed to climb the former as the government is still trying to find the best solution to cap the number of visitors who can visit its upper levels to preserve the millennia-old Buddhist temple. I hope by the time you come and see it in person, you can go up all the way to the highest level.
LikeLiked by 2 people
What a beautiful discovery. I can see the hot and humid detour was very successful. In India too, there are many such old abandoned temples and monuments everywhere, so much to see, so little time and money 😦
LikeLiked by 1 person
Your comment actually reminds me of your posts on the temples near Lonar. I didn’t know about this corner of India before, let alone the interesting temples around it. This is the beauty of blogging as we get to learn about places we would otherwise not know.
LikeLike
The way you described referring to your mental map as soon as your mother mentioned a visit to Magelang made me laugh out loud. I can relate to that: always thinking of a way to add an adventure to something I will be doing anyway. And oh, my, what a beautiful hike. I am in love with the ticket booth. For some reason, in that setting, it makes me want to pay anything just to be there and be invited to walk through. 🙂 The terraces are gorgeous, the mountain peeking from the distance calling to me. You had such a lovely clear day – the visibility is remarkable, and what views you had. You have created an excitement for candis in me now! Candi Selogriyo is beautiful and the grounds so well kept I am surprised. Way up there at the end of the trail and the landscaping is impeccable. And then the photo of the three volcanoes!! They have my heart and that scene touches me more than all the others. Oh, how I love volcanoes. You worked hard in the sun and earned that delicious lunch. I hope your mother understood that it was worth it to you, and that your explanation made her smile. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Every time someone asks me to go out and explore new places, I immediately recall such mental maps in my head! Like you said, why not add a little bit of an adventure to whatever I will be doing? I didn’t know you like volcanoes. As we have plenty of those here in Indonesia, maybe you should consider a visit to this part of the world one day in the future. And when you do, you should also see the candis. 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
That is EXACTLY what I was thinking. 😉 I’ll let you know when I plan a trip, and you can pull out your mental maps and help me make the most of both volcanoes and candis.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Learnt something new today – Candi. There’s so much to know and experience. Thanks to WP and bloggers like you who undertake interesting explorations and bring those stories to us. It was a worthwhile detour though a sunny sweat-dipping day. But who cares with views like that. So much lush greenery all around. Very fertile land indeed, what a blessing that is! Your mom is so cooperative. I cannot imagine doing something like this with my mom. She would be too impatient to wait.
LikeLiked by 1 person
What I love about WP (or any other blogging platforms) is that it allows us to share places we see from all corners of the world and the stories behind them with a great depth, something you can’t do with Instagram or Facebook. I’m really glad my mom was fine with my idea, because this rather short hike turned out to be the highlight of my week-long trip last May to see her.
LikeLiked by 1 person