At Last, Hellas!

46 comments
Europe, Greece

The Greek flag flying proudly above the Academy of Athens

On the evening of August 13, 2004, the world witnessed a grand spectacle that was put up in the most elegant and visually stunning way by the Greek capital. As the countdown began, the water that flooded the stadium’s center stage reflected the lights that flashed rhythmically, paced with the sounds of an amplified heartbeat. At the end of the countdown, after fireworks were briefly set off, a group of performers – 50 people playing the bouzouki (a Greek traditional plucked string instrument) and hundreds of drummers – brought Greek melodies to the global audience. The announcers in three languages then set the tone for the night.

Πολίτες του κόςμου καλώς ήρθατε στη γιορτή της Αθήνας.

Citoyens du monde bienvenue à la grande fête d’Athènes.

Citizens of the world welcome to Athens.

Jeux olympiques bienvenue de nouveau en Grèce!

Olympic Games welcome back to Greece!

Ολυμπιακοί Αγώνες καλώς ήρθατε σπίτι σας. καλώς ήρθατε στην Ελλάδα!

These were immediately followed by a roaring response from the spectators at the stadium as this was the first time the Greek capital hosted the modern Olympic Games since its inaugural edition in the city in 1896. After waiting for more than a century, understandably the Greeks were very proud as their long and fascinating culture took center stage in the world’s biggest show. During the parade of nations, the order of the athletes entering the stadium was based on the Greek letters, and the global audience would learn country names in Greek. From Αγία Λουκία (Agía Loukía – Saint Lucia), Πράσινο Ακρωτήριο (Prásino Akrotírio – Cape Verde), Ακτή Ελεφαντοστού (Aktí Elefandostoú – Ivory Coast/Côte d’Ivoire), Ισημερινός (Isimerinós – Ecuador), Παρθένοι Νήσοι (Parthénoi Nísoi – (U.S.) Virgin Islands), and at last Ελλάς (Ellás – often anglicized as Hellas, which is, of course, the host nation of Greece).

*   *   *

Like many other people, I first learned about Greek mythology and history at school. But apart from the names of Greek gods and goddesses and their unique powers and characters, which were portrayed in numerous movies and TV series that I watched as a kid, not much stayed in my memory. However, when the 2004 Olympic Games in Athens opened with a ceremony that was not only beautiful, but also filled with profound meaning drawn from the most iconic aspects of Greek history, my interest in the country began to blossom.

In a chapter called Clepsydra, named after the water clock the Ancient Greeks used, a series of floats entered the stadium in chronological order based on the history of Greece, each with performers on it bringing characters depicted in murals and statues from historical sites all over the country to life. From the Minoan civilization – often dubbed as the oldest civilization in Europe – to the Myceneans, then followed by visual representations of the Geometric period, Archaic Greece, Classical Greece, the Roman period, the Byzantine period, all the way to the independent Greek state, every moving image and statue (brilliantly brought to life by Greek avant-garde director Dimitris Papaioannou) really captured my imagination. Since then, my desire to visit this country to see its fascinating ancient monuments and cultural heritage only grew even bigger every time I read articles or watched documentaries about it.

But why did I wait for so long to go there? Some of you may ask. On my first trip to Europe back in 2007, I experienced firsthand how complicated it was as an Indonesian to apply for a Schengen visa. There were so many forms to fill in and documents to submit to convince European Union authorities that my intention to visit the continent was genuinely for attending a cousin’s wedding and go sightseeing. Even after I started traveling abroad more regularly, I always put Europe on the back burner because of how tedious the paperwork was to get a visa. However, despite this Greece was always on my mind, and I knew that eventually I just had to brace myself for the complexity of applying for a Schengen visa to visit this country. Toward the end of 2025, after much consideration, I convinced myself that it was time to plan a trip to Greece, with James tagging along as usual.

As expected, there were a lot of documents that I had to prepare, although I did feel that this time things were slightly more straightforward than how it was in 2007. What proved to be quite a challenge turned out to be booking an appointment with the Greek embassy in Jakarta. But I persevered, and when I finally got the visa, it really felt as if I’ve achieved something great. On the contrary, as James travels on a Canadian passport, he didn’t have to go through the same hassle, although for him this trip was long overdue since he was supposed to go to Greece back in 2001 on a school trip. Unfortunately, it had to be cancelled in the aftermath of 9/11.

As everything was set, plane tickets were booked, hotels were reserved, and we were eagerly waiting for the trip. We were supposed to fly via Doha. However, less than two weeks before our departure, the war in Iran broke out. After realizing that there was no way that this conflict would end soon, we took the decision to book new flights with another airline that is not based in the Persian Gulf. In this case we would have to go via Amsterdam. It did add a considerable amount of time on our journey, but it was more reasonable than having to pay more than double the price if we had to fly through Istanbul. (I have to give credit to Qatar Airways though for their quick response to my refund request, which I received only a few days later.)

You might have noticed my absence in the blogosphere recently, and that’s because we just came back from a two-week trip to Greece. I can now tell you that it is one of my favorite countries that I’ve ever been to. We started in historic, energetic, chaotic, yet beautiful Athens before moving on to the Peloponnese: first Nafplio with its pretty old town, then Kalamata where we had probably among the most delicious souvlaki one can get in the country. We then flew to Crete and stayed in the old city of Heraklion where the ruins of the Minoan palace at Knossos is just a short bus ride away. The famous Greek sun was unfortunately playing hide and seek throughout the journey, and we should’ve brought warmer jackets as it was colder than what we had anticipated. However, in the end this was truly a trip to remember: one that was filled with so much good food, impressive ancient sites that we had dreamed of visiting for so long, and fun city explorations. The stories from Greece will have to wait though as I’m aiming to publish more posts from Uzbekistan, Mexico, and other places I’ve traveled to in the past two years. Watch this space!

The iconic caryatids of the Erechtheion at the Acropolis in Athens

The view of the Venetian fortress of Palamidi in Nafplio

Kalamata’s Byzantine-era Church of the Holy Apostles where the Greek War of Independence against the Ottomans was declared in 1821

Walking in downtown Heraklion toward the blue Aegean Sea

We had lot of great seafood dishes in Greece

The souvlaki you need to have when you are in Kalamata

Overlooking the Acropolis and the sprawl of Athens from Lycabettus Hill

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Based in Jakarta, always curious about the world, always fascinated by ancient temples, easily pleased by food.

46 thoughts on “At Last, Hellas!”

  1. Anna's avatar

    Wow so cool you went to Greece! A place that I have yet been to. I’m glad you managed to sort out the chaos from the war – for me I think no travel this year, just seems all too hard. I look forward to travelling virtually through you in upcoming blogs!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      Actually the delicious Greek dishes I had in Melbourne back in 2017 was among the reasons why Greece had been consistently high on my wish list for a long time. I’m glad we went, but for the time being we will steer clear of any destination that would require us to fly over that part of the world. I guess you can still travel to Southeast Asia, Anna. It’s not far and apart from the brief conflict between Thailand and Cambodia last year, it remains a largely peaceful region.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Anna's avatar

        Yes very true. I’ve got a very busy year with work and stuff anyway but I am thinking of maybe an Asia trip at the end of the year, depending on fuel prices…. I was just looking at domestic flights and they are over double the price! Eeks!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Bama's avatar

        Weather-wise, end of year is usually a good time to visit places like Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos. I hope the fuel prices would make more sense by the time you’re thinking of booking the flights!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Bama's avatar

        It would be interesting if you go to Laos. I went in 2012 and I loved it. The country felt so laid back and peaceful.

        Liked by 1 person

  2. Monkey's Tale's avatar

    As the history lover that you are, I can’t think of a more perfect location for you than Greece! I can’t wait to read about your trip. And, I also remember that Opening Ceremony at the Olympics, so thanks for taking me back there too. Maggie

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      I can see myself returning to Greece one day because one visit is simply not enough. Being there and seeing in person all the marvelous artifacts the Ancient Greeks had left us only made me appreciate this country and its people even more. I remember you’re also an avid Olympics fan yourself, aren’t you?

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Suzanne et Pierre's avatar

    So glad to hear you finally fulfilled your dream of visiting Greece. You have such a love for archeology and history that Greece is a perfect match for you. I went to Greece for the first in 1981 (such a long time ago!) and we went back in 2020 but that trip got shorten because of COVID so were unable to revisit Athens or discover Paros & Naxos. We only were able to spend time in Crete and Santorini. Going off season is the best way to go as otherwise it is too crowded and to hot. Looking forward to seeing your future posts on your trip. (Suzanne)

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      I remember your trip to Greece (including Crete) in early 2020, which included a visit to Egypt. And I remember how you had to cut that short because of the pandemic. When I was planning this trip, I actually looked up your posts and I was really tempted to visit Phaistos like you did. But because of the bad weather, we had to be content with Heraklion and Knossos. Naxos is among the places I most want to see when I go back to Greece one day, hopefully. I agree with you about going off season. I can’t imagine how much busier and more crowded places like Athens are during peak season!

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  4. Rebecca's avatar

    So glad you got to visit Greece! It’s sad what’s going on in Iran right now, but it’s good to read that you diverted and still got to visit Athens. I haven’t visited Greece since I was a teenager, so I need to head back soon! Greek food is *chef’s kiss,* and I’m happy you ate well! Thanks for sharing, Bama 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      We really didn’t have any “bad” food in Greece. I’m glad that we got to try so many different Greek dishes on this trip, some we didn’t even know existed prior to coming to this country. I hope you’ll get to revisit Greece, Rebecca! And yes, I hope peace will soon return to Iran and the region.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Crystal M. Trulove's avatar

    My first overseas trip ever in my life was to Greece (in 2000), and I love the images you took. They took me right back there. Isn’t it marvelous to consider the modern city in the setting of the historical Athens that we learned about it school? That’s the part that I wasn’t expecting that blew my mind. My favourite line: “The souvlaki you need to have”

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      I love that Greece was your choice as a destination for your first international trip. I can imagine how impressed you must have been with everything you saw, especially what the ancient civilizations there had built and made. I also loved how the Acropolis really is the centerpiece of Athens. It was so marvelous to see it from different parts of the modern city.

      Liked by 1 person

  6. Ab's avatar

    Whenever you’re quiet on WP, I know you’re off somewhere exciting – and wow, what a beautiful experience you enjoyed!

    Greece is on my wishlist to visit. Like you, I loved reading the Greek mythology growing up and found them endlessly fascinating. The Greek were responsible for so much of the foundational philosophy and math that has enriched society and of course, for inaugurating the Olympics.

    I can’t wait to read more about your adventures in Greece – and for the food stories too. We love Greek food and I bet eating it in the homeland is an experience unto itself!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      Ha, you see the pattern now. 😄

      When we grew up, we only learned about the cool aspects of Greek gods and goddesses, didn’t we? But as I got older and read more of the adult version of Greek mythology, I realized how complicated things really were. But of course, as you said that this country gave us so much, from democracy to math and drama. Have you watched Joanna Lumley’s Greek Odyssey? That show also helped to put Greece further up on my wish list.

      You really need to be patient, Ab. My Greek food post will eventually come, but I still need to write about Uzbek food and Mexican food first. One thing for sure, we loved what we ate in Greece!

      Liked by 1 person

      • Ab's avatar

        The Greek Gods were like an adult soap opera, to be honest. 🤣 Made them even more fascinating to read about as an adult.

        Look forward to the eventual food posts!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Bama's avatar

        At this point, I’m no longer surprised when I stumble upon a new character from Greek mythology who happens to be Zeus’ child from another woman. 😅

        Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      At one point I even considered flying out of Singapore with Scoot to avoid the Gulf! I’m glad in the end we were still able to go.

      Liked by 1 person

  7. Juliette's avatar

    Ooh I’m so glad you managed to visit Greece! There is something magical in this country, from its millenias-old history to its lively atmosphere, the stunning nature and delicious food… I’ve only ever been to Athens and two islands, but I’d love to explore it more soon. In the meantime, I’ll have to wait for your posts!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      Magical is the right word to describe Greece. I loved it so much I even decided that I would make an effort to visit it again in the future, while I was still there! 😁 Athens was such a cool city. Yes, it was rather gritty, but in general exploring its many corners was so much fun!

      Liked by 1 person

  8. newsletterarewethereyet's avatar
    newsletterarewethereyet says:

    I have two Greek colleagues at work, and I love hearing the sound of their language when they speak. It’s amazing to think how far their culture travelled, and what a deep impact it had on Western civilisation. People these days make a big meal of the Judeo-Christian origins of Europe (especialy as some sort of identitarian point) but the reality is that, without Greece, there would be no Europe. Even the name of Europe itself.

    Looking forwards to reading more!

    Fabrizio

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      Actually when I was in Greece, I did think that Greek sounded quite melodious when I heard it being spoken around me every day. And we also happened to be there during the country’s independence day celebration, which made me think of how proud Greeks must be of their long history. As you said it, without Greece there would be no Europe.

      Like

  9. travelling_han's avatar

    Beautiful photos! Greece is such a great country and I really need to explore more of it. I visited Athens a few years ago in a cold but sunny January and absolutely loved it. Oh and the souvlaki photos made me drool at the memories! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      Greece in the middle of March was already very cold for me! 😆 But I guess when you went in January Athens must have been even less touristy. We wanted to have the souvlaki again on another day, but for some reason the stall opened late that particular day and we already had to check out and leave Kalamata. Oh well.

      Like

  10. ourcrossings's avatar

    You captured so many beautiful photos from your trip to Greece. It’s a country I have yet to visit, but when I do, I’ll keep in mind to indulge in the souvlaki. I only hope they have vegetarian options. I hope you had a wonderful time exploring Greece. I very much look forward to your blog posts about it. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      There probably are vegetarian options for souvlaki. Greece was wonderful, and I hope you’ll get to visit it too one day (and when you do, you might want to consider going in the low season). Thanks Aiva.

      Like

  11. NocturnalTwins's avatar

    Wow – love the pictures. I had no idea that there was so much bureaucracy for Indonesians when travelling to Greece. I love that you and James always seem to agree on which countries to visit. My bf isn’t interested in travelling to Europe so if I want to go, it’ll be solo trips (which is fine with me).

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      While I understand the reason behind the screening, having to go through all the process was quite exhausting to be honest. But it was worth the hassle because Greece was so beautiful and fascinating. It certainly helps that James and I have similar interests, so it’s very rare for us to disagree on what to see or try when we go on trips. I’ve traveled with people who didn’t necessarily share the same interests with me, and there certainly were times when I wished I was traveling by myself.

      Liked by 1 person

  12. Dalo Collis's avatar

    A great read, Bama. I like the way you opened with the Athens 2004 opening ceremony as a living clepsydra of Greek history, and so happy to read how much you enjoyed living the dream of finally making it to Greece. With all you went through to make this happen, the long visa struggle would be difficult enough, and then the Iran conflict; it underlines your perseverance and makes your words and photos even better. The passion you have for travel is reflected so well in this piece… and as always, after reading your post. I’m now hungry, and souvlaki would be perfect.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      That opening ceremony left a really deep impression on me, Randall. Beijing put up a spectacular and jaw-dropping show four years later, and in 2012 London came up with its own version of a fun and memorable spectacle. But what Athens showcased to the world and the way everything was presented made the 2004 ceremony my all-time favorite. It was so beautiful, profound, elegant, classic, yet modern. I would definitely go back to Greece in a heartbeat! If you ever find yourself in Kalamata, you should try the souvlaki at Souvlakia Panagiotis. You won’t regret it!

      Like

  13. Jolandi Steven's avatar

    I am so glad to hear that you persisted with your visa application, Bama, and that Greece was worth jumping through the hoops. I have great empathy with you regarding the amount of paperwork that is sometimes involved with obtaining a visa. I’m looking forward to your blog posts and detailed descriptions of the food you had. You always make my mouth water, and I’m really happy to hear that you had excellent food on your trip.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      Some countries are really worth the hassle, which reminds me of my experience securing a difficult-to-get visa to visit Lebanon in 2019. As a South African, you’ve probably experienced something similar for some of your international trips, haven’t you? The blog posts on Greece won’t be coming out anytime soon, unfortunately, since I’m aiming to publish more stories especially on Uzbekistan and Mexico this year. So, please bear with me.

      Like

      • Jolandi Steven's avatar

        I agree, which is why I will jump through all the hoops for a visa to Uzbekistan. Yip, a South African passport sadly does not open many doors, but I’ve never not been able to get a visa. It just sometimes take a lot of patience and paperwork. Well, I’m always looking forward to reading whatever you choose to write about, Bama. It never disappoints.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Bama's avatar

        I think both of us are used to dealing with a tedious amount of paperwork when we travel to richer countries. I’m crossing my fingers for you in sorting out everything you need for your trip to Uzbekistan, Jolandi!

        Like

  14. WanderingCanadians's avatar

    Glad you were able to book new flights with another airline, even if it meant spending more time in transit to get to Greece. Even though it was quite the process and journey to get there, it sounds like it was all worth it. I took a few Classical Studies courses in Greek mythology and have always been fascinated with Greece. We’ve never been before, but it’s high up there on our travel list.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      I’m really grateful that in the end things went well. We were also lucky that we still had some sunny days despite the rare storm. I really couldn’t believe it when a few days ago I stumbled upon videos and images of another storm that swept in from North Africa, bringing the Saharan dust to Greece which turned the air and skies over Heraklion reddish.

      How cool that you actually studied Ancient Greece! I hope you’ll go there sooner than later, Linda. Quite a few locals we met during this trip told us that late September/early October is a good time to visit the country.

      Liked by 1 person

  15. Len Kagami's avatar

    Glad to hear that you quickly found an alternative flight route, Bama. My cousin was in the same situation as you, but the other way around. However, the only option she has is Turkish, which is so expensive. So she had to cancel her family trip altogether 😦
    By the way, gorgeous photos of Greece 😉

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      I’m sorry to hear that your cousin had to cancel her trip. Let’s hope this war ends very soon because it only brings suffering to ordinary people.

      Speaking of Greece, when I was at the archaeological museums in Athens and Heraklion, I couldn’t help but think of your photos of the same objects I was looking at. Greece is definitely one of the most fascinating countries that I’ve been to.

      Liked by 1 person

  16. lexklein's avatar

    What a tease! 🙂 I can’t wait to hear about all the things you saw (and ate). Usually I freak out a little bit over your adventuresome approach to food, but this culture is filled with things even I (the pickiest non-foodie in the world) adore. It probably helps that I am 50% Greek. I think I’ve mentioned before that my mother is 100% Greek and so I have been lucky enough to go there many times. (Strangely, only once with my mom! The rest with grandparents and to a camp for Greek-Americans.) Anyway, I can’t wait for more photos and stories about your time there, especially after you had wanted to go there for so long.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama's avatar

      I do remember your family connection to Greece, Lex. Do you speak the language? How cool that you’ve been there so many times. I really liked the country and I know one day I have to go back to explore more. James and I miss having spanakopita, manitaropita, galaktoboureko, and bougatsa for breakfast. And this trip further confirmed that the Greeks do the best fried calamari indeed — I first had it at a Greek restaurant in Melbourne, and what I had in Nafplio tasted exactly like that, if not better! We didn’t try anything “weird” in Greece, except for a traditional Cretan snail delicacy some people might find rather unusual. But it was delicious.

      Liked by 1 person

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