Enter a magical ancient Maya site that is Palenque
Apart from the act of traveling itself, planning a trip is also something I mostly enjoy, for it brings me ‘closer’ to a place even before seeing it in person. But I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Having to look up the details of everything important – transport options, countless permutations of train and flight schedules, different opening hours of multiple sites, and weather forecasts, among many other things – can undoubtedly be daunting. And when you only have two weeks to visit a country far away from where you live that you have been dreaming of seeing for so many years, the notion that you have to pick the best possible timing for the trip and decide which places to include given the time constraints only adds to the pressure.
When we were planning our trip to Mexico, James and I knew that Chichen Itza would automatically be on the list of places to see, thanks to its historical significance, impressive architecture, and present-day fame. However, the plethora of Maya ruins in the country and the limited time off work we could take meant we must carefully and strategically choose what other sites to add to the list, ideally places of great importance in the past that are also practical enough to visit. For me, it’s Uxmal, but for James, it’s Palenque. He told me that he had always wanted to see this particular archaeological site since he was little. And after reading people’s accounts about it over the years, I was intrigued too. But there was one problem: Palenque was relatively harder to reach as it is situated in the middle of the dense jungle of Chiapas, Mexico’s southernmost state.
At first, my research brought me to the small airport right outside the modern city of Palenque. Taking a flight there directly from Mexico City would be convenient and time-saving, or so I thought until I learned that the sole airline serving this route happened to operate a fleet of only two aircraft. We agreed that it would be too risky to choose this option since even a slight disruption to the carrier would potentially have a big impact on our plans. In the end, we opted to fly to the much busier airport of Villahermosa, more than 130 kilometers away from Palenque, and continued our journey overland to our destination by ADO* minibus. We stayed in the touristy area in downtown Palenque, which fortunately was neither busy nor loud. In fact, the tall leafy trees along the narrow streets in this neighborhood made me feel at home, thanks to the tropical feel they brought to the area.
After a restful night’s sleep, the time finally came for James to see a place that had captured his imagination for a long time. That morning, the skies were blue, the temperature pleasant, and the air fresh. We took a short taxi ride from our hotel to the archaeological zone, arriving when the sun was still casting its soft, warm rays onto the ancient structures. Words cannot describe how beautiful this place looked as we started exploring it – our first ever Maya ruins. A series of stone terraces and pyramids stood silently to our right, with the thick foliage of the jungle hugging them from behind. With only a handful of other visitors in sight, we soaked in the peaceful ambiance of this undeniably photogenic site. If love at first sight does exist, Palenque knows well how to cast its spell on us.
The Temple of the Skull, named after its only remaining stucco decoration
Can you see the skull?
The Temple of the Inscriptions (left) and the adjacent Temple of the Red Queen (also known as Temple XIII)
Unlike the Temple of the Inscriptions, it is possible for visitors to enter Temple XIII
Inside the structure where Pakal the Great’s wife was once entombed
The masks and decorative beads from the queen’s tomb are now kept at the nearby Site Museum
The Temple of the Inscriptions with fully closed windows to protect the precious artifacts inside
Worn stucco decorations at the top of the stepped pyramid
A reproduction of Pakal the Great’s sarcophagus at the Site Museum
Pakal the Great’s parents: K’an Mo’ Hix/the father (on the left) and Ix Sak K’uk’/the mother
Alberto Ruz Lhuillier’s tomb opposite Temple XIII
Long before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, this Maya city-state was known as Lakamha, a name in the Itza language which roughly means “big waters” or “a place of many waters”. Traces of settlements in this area date back to the third century BCE, but it wasn’t until around six centuries later when larger and more permanent structures began to be built. One of the most remarkable aspects about this site is how the hieroglyphic inscriptions discovered at this location allowed archaeologists and researchers to study the almost uninterrupted royal lineage of Palenque’s rulers from the fifth to the eighth centuries CE. And this is how they learned about K’inich Janaab Pakal I, an ajaw (the title given to pre-Columbian Maya rulers) who reigned for about 68 years from the early seventh century. This makes him the fifth longest-reigning monarch in world history – the longest for more than a millennium before the advent of Louis XIV of France who ruled for 72 years from the 17th to the early 18th centuries. To govern that long in a region that saw Maya city-states waging war against each other was certainly no mean feat.
However, if you have never heard of this ajaw, that’s probably because you know him by another name: Pakal the Great. He was credited with expanding the palace of Lakamha as well as commissioning other monumental structures within its borders. But what makes him famous is arguably his impressive mortuary crypt containing a richly decorated colossal sarcophagus whose lid was opened in 1952 by Alberto Ruz Lhuillier, a Mexican archaeologist from the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH). Previously, he uncovered a sealed passageway within the Temple of the Inscriptions that goes from the stepped pyramid’s entrance at the top all the way down to the tomb of Pakal the Great at ground level, completely hidden from plain sight. The body of the ruler which was wrapped in a funerary cloth was laid in a cinnabar-laden stone sarcophagus and embellished with a mask and other objects made of jade.
Today, the Temple of the Inscriptions is off-limits to the public, and to preserve the original tomb of Pakal the Great inside, windows were installed to regulate the temperature and humidity levels within the pyramid. “It looks like a hotel!” James commented with a big grin on his face. Next to this structure is the Temple of the Red Queen, a name attributed to the fact that it once housed the tomb of a female member of the royal family who is generally thought to be Pakal the Great’s wife (although some believe it was his mother). Unlike the remains of the ajaw that have been left in situ (there is a faithful reproduction of his tomb at the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City which also houses the famous jade mask), those of the queen were transferred to the nearby Site Museum.
Palenque’s palace with its iconic tower
The eastern corridor of the palace
I wish I had a telephoto lens to better capture these reliefs
Since the palace is now off-limits to the public, you can only view these carvings from afar
The four-story observation tower as viewed from near the Temple of the Cross
The Temple of the Sun (at the back) and Temple XIV
The panel inside Temple XIV depicting K’inich Kan Bahlam II and his mother Ixik Tz’ aka’ ab’ Ajaw
The Temple of the Sun is situated in a part of the archaeological complex that was commissioned by K’inich Kan Bahlam II
Imagine how beautiful this must have looked in the past
The panel inside the Temple of the Sun
The Temple of the Cross, the tallest stepped pyramid within the archaeological zone
The reproduction of the panel of the Temple of the Cross (the original is now in Mexico City)
Left: Serpent Jaguar II, the other name of K’inich Kan Bahlam II; Right: God L, a deity associated with trade
The view of the palace from the Temple of the Cross
A bird’s eye view of the Temple of the Sun and Temple XIV
The Temple of the Foliated Cross, also closed to the public during our visit
James and I continued walking to a group of monuments situated on higher ground to the southeast of the Temple of the Inscriptions, past the perimeter of the palace with its iconic four-story tower. Collectively known as the Temple of the Cross complex, the stepped pyramids at this site were commissioned by K’inich Kan Bahlam II – the son of Pakal the Great – as he ascended the throne following his father’s death. All the structures housed stone panels beautifully carved with portrayals of the new ruler and his ancestors, with some of them also depicting an object that was thought to be a cross which actually represents the world tree of Mayan mythology – inspired by the ceiba tree. The original panel that used to be inside the Temple of the Cross, however, is now permanently kept at the same anthropological museum in the nation’s capital.
Prior to this trip, I had read about how some people referred to Palenque as being more compact compared to other Maya ruins. However, what we found was still a relatively large archaeological zone with different groups of monuments scattered across the grounds. We headed to the so-called North Group via a court that was used for playing the Mesoamerican ballgame. Consisting of five temples, these structures in the north of the compound had most likely been decorated with stucco reliefs, although only fragments of them survive to this day. In front of these monuments was a large specimen of the fabled ceiba tree, a plant so central to the ancient Maya civilization as it symbolizes the connection between Xibalba (the underworld in Mayan mythology) and the skies with the terrestrial realm at its center.
The first time Palenque was mentioned in Spanish records was in 1567, long after the city-state’s abandonment by its population at the turn of the ninth century. But it wasn’t until 1784 that the Spaniards conducted their first ever official expedition to the ancient ruins. In early 2025 at the time of our visit, Palenque was fortunately neither raided by the troops of another Maya city-state nor the Spanish colonial forces. The magnificent monuments and the lush jungle around them now attract visitors who are curious about this magical place and, like us, wish to see it with their own eyes.
To go back to the city, we hopped on a colectivo, a shared van or minibus that is probably the cheapest way to travel around this part of Mexico. Not only was it easy on our wallets, but it also provided us with an unfiltered glimpse into the daily life of the locals. I was especially amused by how every time someone got on, that person would always greet the rest of the people in the vehicle with buenos días, which was always met with a reciprocal chorus of buenos días from the other passengers. James and I quickly learned this custom and joined them. I can see why he had always been fascinated by Palenque (you can read his own take on this site here), and after going there in person, I have to say I myself am now smitten.
Walking around the palace to get to the North Group
A few of the surviving stucco decorations of the palace
Through the ballgame court
Left: Epiphytic cacti, a rare sight for me; Right: Bursera simaruba, also known as the chaca, or the tourist tree
A section of the North Group
Some believe this is a depiction of a deity
The Temple of the Count with what appeared to be a ceiba tree in front of it
The “Count” refers to Jean-Frédéric Waldeck, an eccentric French explorer who purportedly lived there in the early 19th century
Looking at the palace and the Temple of the Inscriptions from the North Group
Many structures are still hidden underneath the thick foliage of the jungle
This group of temples situated on a hill near the Temple of the Cross complex was unfortunately closed when we went
A part of the Site Museum, a small but fantastic museum near the archaeological complex
We arrived at the museum a bit too early, so we explored its grounds first and found these beauties
A model of the palace at the museum
A panel depicting Ahkal Mo’ Nahb I, the ruler of Palenque from the early fifth century CE (the list of ancestors made by Pakal the Great starts with him)
A scene depicting the eighth-century ruler of Palenque Ahkal Mo’ Nahb III with his parents
For some reason, the figure on the right reminds me of a character from the Japanese animated movie Spirited Away
Fine specimens of Maya glyphs
The part of the modern city of Palenque where we stayed
I loved how leafy this part of the city was
*I was really impressed with the customer service of ADO. From the way they efficiently helped me over WhatsApp with a booking problem (I booked online and successfully paid with my credit card, but I didn’t receive the tickets) to the front desk staff member at the airport in Villahermosa who rebooked us on an earlier bus to Palenque so we didn’t have to wait at the airport for too long, they were immensely helpful. I definitely recommend this bus company if you are thinking of going to this part of Mexico. And no, I am not getting paid by ADO for recommending them to you because, as regular readers of this blog know, I don’t do sponsored posts. This is purely based on my personal experience.
What an Amazing World! 
Thanks for this wonderful walk through Palenque. It really is one of the prettiest of the Maya sites. The museum was under renovation when we were there so I appreciate your pictures from it and tying them in to the story. It looks like they closed the area at the back that has a great group of stelae I was hoping you would see. We definitely stayed in the same part of Palenque, it is a surprisingly lovely part of the city. Maggie
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To be honest, I was quite disappointed for not being able to see that temple with the very intricate stelae that I learned from your post. But on the other hand, we were lucky that the Site Museum was already open after it was closed for renovation. Actually I didn’t realize that we stayed in the same area until we left Palenque when I looked up your photos again and recognized the same streets and restaurants.
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It is so amazing that James and you, too, had a chance to finally see the magnificent Palenque Ruins. I can easily see why he was so eager to visit them, as their well-preserved architecture, intricate carvings, and beautiful jungle setting bring a sense of adventure.
I am glad to hear that you, just like me, love the actual planning of a trip. I find that the planning phase builds anticipation for the adventure, allowing you to look forward to exotic and unique experiences.
Remember when you were a child and the night before your birthday, Christmas morning or a special event? Likely, it was so hard to sleep because the excitement felt like a rolling boil of fantastical pre-pleasure. Let’s be honest, the actual day or event may have been amazing, but it usually had fewer sparkles than our fantasies!
I find that the same is true for travel, and if you are as infected by the travel bug as I am, you’ll know that pre-trip anticipation is almost as (or more) pleasurable than Christmas morning as a kid!
Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Palenque was amazing. It really is one of the most impressive ancient ruins I have ever visited, and I feel grateful for the sunny days we had during our stay.
The planning stage of a trip can be fun, although sometimes it can feel overwhelming to think of everything I need to check and prepare. But the hardest step is always the first one. Once you set everything in motion, things can roll out pretty quickly.
I know what you mean about the excitement that builds up before a very special trip/occasion. Although these days I generally sleep soundly no matter what. 😆
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I am glad to hear that we share the same sentiments, dear Bama. Trip planning is a skill that improves with experience, teaching you how to manage unpredictable events, prepare for unexpected issues, and balance a structured plan with the need for spontaneity. So, the more you do it, the better you become. Take care xx
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You said it well, Aiva. Leaving a room for spontaneity, however well-planned our travels are, can make a huge difference.
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🥰🥰🥰
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I enjoyed your post. Very interesting, your pictures are wonderful. My wife, Elizabeth, and I enjoy visiting Indigenous sites here in El Salvador. We love the history.
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I believe there are some Maya ruins in El Salvador as well, which must be quite interesting to explore. Thank you for dropping by!
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Fascinating stuff! I’ve heard of Palenque before, but I didn’t know much about it. Palenque often gets overshadowed by Chichen Itza, which is larger and more popular, but having read your post, Palenque looks just as worth visiting. Like you, I research and plan a trip down to the minute detail, from the timing of public transport to opening hours/days of restaurants and landmarks. I agree some people might find it excessive (even obsessive), but I get a wonderful thrill out of planning, loving the process as much as the trip itself! Thanks for sharing your time in Palenque with us, Bama– now, I’ve been inspired by your posts to return to Mexico, hopefully sooner than later!!
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While Chichen Itza was impressive, it was a bit too busy for us. Palenque, on the other hand, was so peaceful and atmospheric. You know, what I learned from planning a trip to the very small detail is that it helps me ‘understand’ a place better prior to the actual visit, so when I arrive there, I won’t look too lost. I hope you’ll get to Mexico soon, Rebecca!
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Thanks for all of your hard work to get to this wonderful site and for this very informative post. We have never been in this region of Mexico but have visited other Maya sites. It is a fascinating culture. (Suzanne)
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Merci Suzanne. If I remember it correctly, I think you went to Tulum right after the pandemic, didn’t you? That’s another Maya site I’d love to see one day. There are just so many of them, and every place seems worth exploring!
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You remember well. We visited Chitchen Iza, Coba (our favourite) and Tulum. They were all amazing!
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Now I know why I remember those blog posts of yours in particular. I looked them up when I was planning this trip to Mexico.
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You have a beautiful selection of photos of Palenque. This Mayan site brings back fond memories. I enjoyed visiting this site after seeing other Mayan cities because it had its own unique identity. My only regret is that the museum was not open when I visited.
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Much appreciated! Palenque was vastly different from the other Maya sites in the northern part of the Yucatán that we went to. You’re right to say that it has its own unique character. At one point, we were actually thinking of visiting Bonampak as well. But unfortunately, there were security problems in that area, at least in the months prior to our visit. So, we decided not to risk it.
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Fascinating tour. Were there any buildings built at ground level or were all of them stepped? I’m assuming there was a religious or show of power reason for all the stepped temples and the palace.
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There are smaller structures in the entire archaeological zone, but many of them are still covered by dense jungle. I think the fact that quite a lot of religious monuments were built in the shape of a pyramid tells us something. In the past, humans often perceived lofty places as the abode of the gods.
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Some of them still do. 😀😀
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Very well done. Palenque is spectacular.
Thanks for the memories.
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You’re welcome, Brian. Spectacular is indeed another word to aptly describe this ancient site.
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And you presented it very well.
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Bama, what an amazing trip you and James had in Palenque! I’ve never heard of this city and place and you were blessed with such a beautiful day. The landscape, ruins, temples are so lush and stunning. So well preserved over half a millennia later! You’re right, I can only imagine how beautiful they must’ve looked in its newer prime days.
The modern city has a rustic feel too it and the big leafy canopy on the streets are also lovely too. It’s nice to receive great customer service. Especially when you’re in a foreign land far away from home.
I’m with you on wanting to plan my trip in detail and getting great enjoyment from it. I love plotting it all into a detailed table and work on it over a few weeks in great detail. The hubby and T seem to enjoy the plans I make!
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Palenque was one of our favorite places from this two-week trip to Mexico. We were really lucky with the weather, and for such an impressive site, it didn’t receive as many visitors as Chichen Itza, which is probably better for its preservation.
Making detailed travel plans can be fun, indeed. But equally important is that the people you travel with enjoy the plans you make as it’s not always easy to include everyone’s different preferences.
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I find that planning the trip builds anticipation for the actual trip, especially if its to a destination which I’m visiting for the first time. Working out the unknowns, reading reviews on Tripadvisor and hotel booking sites, checking Google Maps for driving routes/times, transportation choices, etc allows me to visualize how the journey is going to be like and be prepared for surprises. Nowadays I plan my itinerary on Excel (sounds boring right?) with activities for each day planned with times so that I can space out activities and plan for contingencies. I can also include costs in my home and foreign currencies, and plan my trip budget at the same time.
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The novelty of a destination for us can indeed make the planning stage of a trip even more exciting. Like you, I also like to read online reviews of the places I’m interested in seeing, although I have to remind myself to always take everything I read with a grain of salt. You know, I don’t see any problem with using Excel, Word, Notepad, or whatever tool available. It doesn’t need to be something fancy or sophisticated, as long as it serves its purpose.
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Beautiful post – your pictures are just wonderful! You captured Palenque’s magic so vividly — I could almost feel the jungle air and sense the ancient energy you described. I’d love to visit one day 🙂
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Much appreciated, Hannah. The lush jungle provided a really beautiful setting for the ancient ruins. I hope you’ll get to visit Mexico sooner than later, and when you do, make sure to also put Palenque in your list.
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Palenque really is a particularly beautiful site and one that I have not seen in person. The sun-warmed stone, bright green grass, and the play of light and shadow combine to make this very appealing. If I had not been to Mexico so many times, I’d jump to see it for myself. We keep talking about Oaxaca, so maybe those two places can be visited on the same trip? Like you, I love planning trips although I do get overwhelmed sometimes (like thinking about Indonesia – haha)!
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I understand what you mean. I guess Mexico to you is like the other Southeast Asian countries to me. Yes, there are still so many sites in the region that I want to see, but those in faraway places often pull me stronger.
Combining Oaxaca and Palenque on the same trip should be doable, but it depends on how much time you have. I just did a quick check, and apparently there is no direct flight from Oaxaca to Villahermosa. So, you’d have to transit in Mexico City first.
You know, when you start planning to go to Indonesia, I’d be more than happy to help. It’s a big country after all.
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You can be sure I will ask for your help when I start looking into Indonesia!
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Absolutely wonderful! It sure looked like it was a glorious day for exploring these amazing ruins! I wish I had more time in Mexico to visit – I have barely scratched the surface!
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We often don’t have the luxury of time when exploring faraway places. But even if we do, chances are we still won’t be able to see everything. I do hope that one day you’ll get the chance to go back to Mexico, though.
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Thats it… the time is the killer these days! Between work and family responsibilities its so hard! I would definitely like to explore Mexico some more, your posts are reminding me of how much I loved what little I did see!
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Or maybe when your daughter is old enough, you can go back to Mexico with her. I wonder what she would think of the sights, colors, sounds, and food there.
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Yes definitely!!! I can’t wait to explore more with her! I wonder what she’ll think of Brunei?? Probably her most “culture shock” trip so far i think!
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It would be interesting to see what she thinks of Brunei!
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I’ll definitely do a post on it… even though I haven’t finished my Uzbekistan ones yet (and probably never will lol)
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Even though Palenque was out of the way, it sounds like it was worth the trek to get to. I’ve never actually heard of this place before, but will have to keep it mind. I find the ancient Mayan ruins so fascinating. And how lucky to have the place mostly all to yourselves. It’s remarkable how intact the ruins are and are in pretty decent shape. Sounds like all your careful trip planning paid off! I’m a big trip planner as well.
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I’m glad we went to Palenque. Visiting this archaeological zone turned out to be one of the most memorable visits to any ancient site that I’ve ever done. I’m pleasantly surprised to know that quite a lot of my blogging friends are actually trip planners! It’s so different from most people I know, whether from school or work. But then most of them don’t blog.
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Like James, I learned about Palenque as a kid, from a book. That sarcophagus lid that looked as if Pakal was riding a spaceship really captured my imagination. I thought of spacefaring Mayans, how cool would that have been? Whereas, I don’t know why, Pakal’s green mask gave me nightmares.
So nice for James to finally see the place he’s always wanted to go visit!
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Unlike you and James, I was completely unaware of the ancient Maya when I was little. I kind of see what you mean with Pakal’s jade mask giving you nightmares. For the imagination of a young boy, it can indeed appear suspiciously innocent.
Pakal was amazing. You should see it yourself, Fabrizio!
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I wish! Maybe one day. Thanks, Bama.
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Palenque is a site I also wouldn’t mind visiting, so I am glad that it lived up to James’ expectations, and made you fall in love with it too. I love how you combine practical information in your narrative while also giving the reader enough history to make one wants to either visit oneself, or feel satisfied for having visited a magical looking place like this through someone else’s eyes. Like you, I adore the planning stage, although it can become a bit overwhelming and stressful.
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I’m glad you found the amount of information (both practical and historical) in this post not too overwhelming, Jolandi. I always try to present the historical background of the places I visit in “bite-sized” blog posts, thanks to the feedback I received from my cousin on some of the posts I wrote in my early years of blogging. If you ever go to Mexico, I hope you’ll have time to visit Palenque. It’s a special place.
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What a wonderful trip to Palenque. Sounds like not the easiest to get here but worth the journey. Your photos of the temples and Mayan ruins. How lovely to have gotten close shots and further out too. It seemed like the perfect weather, though when you said its tropical it made me think it was fairly warm 😄 I smiled when James said The Temple of Inscriptions was ‘It looks like a hotel!’. It truly looks magnificent and sizable from the outside especially in contrast with that person walking in front of it. The locals seem friendly and sounds like you and James fit right in. What a trip, what an adventure 🙂
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It really was worth the journey, the effort, and the time. I did get sweaty, but that’s expected in a place surrounded by lush jungles. If the sun gets too strong, you can always go underneath those trees. Palenque is probably one of the most exciting ancient sites to explore in Mexico, and I highly recommend it to anyone interested in history.
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Palenque really does seem exciting to explore in Mexico. It’s nice to see a sense of tranquility here – not entirely packed with tourists and a leisurely time to take this ruins, history and everything wonderful about the place in. This post was beautifully done 🙂
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Thank you, Mabel. The tranquility really was one of the main reasons why I enjoyed Palenque so much.
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I love how you capture both the joys and challenges of trip planning, especially for somewhere as remote as Palenque. Your choice to visit, despite the hurdles, highlights how special it is to experience history and the allure of a place firsthand. Your storytelling and stunning photos truly bring out Palenque’s mystical essence.
“If love at first sight does exist, Palenque knows well how to cast its spell on us.” That’s such a memorable line. The way you blend personal reflection with historical detail creates a wonderfully tranquil atmosphere. Reading this brought back childhood dreams of seeing Maya ruins—and now Palenque is definitely on my (ever-growing, many thanks to you!) bucket list! Cheers to finding more gems like this on our travels.
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This was definitely not the first time we pushed on with our plan to go to a place that is not the easiest to visit. Palenque is a reminder that some places are indeed worth the hassle.
One thing I’ve come to accept after many years of blogging is that our bucket list will only keep growing despite our best effort to see as many sites as we want. This planet we call home is home to so many beautiful and intriguing places after all. Cheers to fulfilling your travel dreams, Randall!
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This looks like an amazing ruin! I did not get a chance to visit Palenque when I was in Mexico. Stunning photos and history Bama. It also looks like it was perhaps not as crowded (based on your photos).
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For a place as magnificent as Palenque, I was pleasantly surprised to find it not crowded at all. Its location is probably the main reason why it wasn’t as popular as Chichen Itza, which is not a bad thing. A few weeks ago, I actually re-read your post on Lamanai in Belize because after that trip to Mexico, I really want to see more Maya sites in the region. If only they were not that far away from Indonesia!
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that is great it wasn’t too crowded as that makes the experience so much better to have it to yourself. I loved the Mayan ruins in Belize. So mystical and most were not crowded at all. The ATM Cave was also pretty surreal as there are Mayan artifacts way deep within the cave, and it is also easy to get to Tikal which was my favorite. Yes like you I wish it was not so far to Asia as I will need months to see it someday!
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Since you mentioned Tikal, I have to say it’s one of the main reasons why I’m still thinking of returning to that part of the world one day!
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