The entrance to the Shah-i-Zinda complex
There are many ways to remember those who have died. However, it has been proven over and over again that a very special person usually gets a unique memorial that itself will be remembered for many generations. Of all the things mankind has constructed to honor the departed, tombs and mausoleums built in a grand and lavish manner often turn out to be among the most impressive – the Taj Mahal, for example. While some are situated in an expansive compound filled with gardens and water elements that exude peace, like the centuries-old royal tombs near Hue in Vietnam, others take on a more figurative meaning like some of the ancient Hindu-Buddhist temples in Java dedicated to deceased kings and queens.
In Samarkand, apart from the gleaming mausoleum of Gur-i Amir where the great Uzbek conqueror Timur was interred, there is a necropolis situated on the slopes of a hill near the colossal Bibi-Khanym Mosque that houses some of the most beautiful mausoleums I have ever seen. From the outside, it doesn’t immediately give away the impression of a grand historical monument other sites in the city do. However, as you walk through the gate and step inside the compound, you will instantly realize that this is indeed a special place.
Shah-i-Zinda, as the site is collectively called, traces its history back to the eighth century CE during a period of time when Islam was spreading to Central Asia. Qutham (Kusam) ibn Abbas – a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad – a Medina native who is considered one of the first preachers of the religion in this part of the world, died in Samarkand at the hands of the Sogdians. The ancient Iranian people who were adherents of Zoroastrianism clearly felt threatened by the rapid expansion of the new faith. However, the current incarnation of Shah-i-Zinda only began to take shape three centuries after Qutham’s demise.
In the 11th century, the Karakhanids – a dynasty whose rule marked a shift from Iranian to Turkic predominance in Central Asia – established its new capital in Samarkand, previously the center of power of the Sogdians. In an effort to legitimize their reign, the Karakhanids laid the foundations of the tomb of Qutham long after his death. When the Timurids gained control of the region in the 14th century, they continued the tradition of building tombs at Shah-i-Zinda where the mausoleums of the likes of Timur’s sister, niece, and probably also his wife were gradually added. Then in the 15th century during the rule of Ulugh Beg, the sultan behind the first madrasah in the Registan, more structures were built within the necropolis. Today, these form the lower of the three sections of the compound.
It’s not hard to see why Shah-i-Zinda has become one of Samarkand’s most popular sites among tourists. Intricate majolica tiles, carved terracotta, colorful mosaics, and beautiful calligraphy in Arabic and Persian script adorn most structures within the compound. However, due to the necropolis’ rather compact size, your experience of this place will depend on the timing of your visit. Coming here when other big tour groups also arrive might detract from the feeling of its sacredness. Otherwise, it’s one of those places that will make your mind wander to the past. Shah-i-Zinda is yet another example that remembering – even venerating – important persons is a trait many communities around the world share, because we, humans, are more alike than we are different.
A narrow alley filled with intricately-decorated mausoleums
Expect to be awed by this necropolis
This beautiful 14th-century mausoleum was built to honor Timur’s eldest sister Kutlug Turkan-aka
The intricate ceiling decoration of the same mausoleum
Incredibly ornate wood carvings
Another look at what is also known as the mausoleum of Shadimulk-aka, Kutlug Turkan-aka’s daughter
The middle group of mausoleums
A closer look at the impressive centuries-old decorative tiles of the mausoleum of Ali Nesefi
The color contrast is just so beautiful
This particular mausoleum is richly embellished on the outside…
…as well as the inside
The domes come in different shapes and colors
A view of the upper ensemble of mausoleums
The opulent decoration of the early 15th-century Tuman-aka complex, which includes a mosque and a mausoleum
Green and gold dominate the interior
The Bibi-Khanym Mosque as viewed from Shah-i-Zinda
The path we took to get to the necropolis
The 19th-century Hazrat Khizr Mosque that we saw on the way from the Bibi-Khanym Mosque to Shah-i-Zinda
What an Amazing World! 
What an amazing world!! Many thanks for your great post about mausoleums:)
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My pleasure, Martina. Shah-i-Zinda truly is one of the most unique complexes of mausoleums I’ve ever visited.
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This post brings so much joy to my heart, Bama. I know you have so many new posts on Mexico to write, so I am happy that you did another one on Uzbekistan. I have started reading books about the country, marking various places on my Google Maps, and although I don’t have a concrete date yet, I am going to put some effort into making this trip a reality within the next year or two if the stars align for me. So if you don’t mind, I will be reaching out to you at some point for specific things I have questions about. I cannot think of any other place’s architecture drawing me in in the same way as that of Uzbekistan. Perhaps Iran, but I’m not sure I’ll ever go there.
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As you can imagine, I have a lot of posts to write from my trips to Uzbekistan and Mexico, and I think alternating between them will keep things “interesting” (which is another way of saying I don’t want to bore anyone :)). Jolandi, I’ll be more than happy to help you with the planning for your trip to Uzbekistan! And since you also mentioned Iran, it’s also one of the places I most want to see. If only the geopolitical situations were a lot less complicated, I think I would have gone there.
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I love how you are switching between the two, Bama. Keeps it interesting for you too, I’m sure. And thanks, I will definitely be in touch sometime in the near future. Geopolitics often complicate potential travel destinations. I often find the way I choose places interesting. My impulse, or reason to visit often varies quite a bit.
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I think it’s true for people who prefer to travel independently, like us, where our decision to visit a place is often different from those who like to go as a part of big tour groups.
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My favourite site in Samarkand. We spent so much time there, tour groups came and went and we were still poking our heads into each amazing corner. I’m glad you were able to visit it. Maggie
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We were particularly annoyed by a few tourists who were a bit loud. One of them was so intent on getting that perfect Instagram shot of her posing, so much so she told us to move away because we blocked her (we were standing nowhere near her). But apart from that, we were really impressed by the mausoleums.
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I can’t wait until this ‘influencer’ trend is over
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From the way things look, I don’t think it will be over anytime soon.
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Stunning
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Which is the right word to describe this place.
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Wow, this is an absolutely magnificent architectural ensemble with such amazing tile work and historical significance. The intricate tile work and elaborate designs, reflecting the city’s rich ceramic art tradition, are sure to create a visually stunning and memorable experience. I could spend hours here admiring all this beauty. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Samarkand’s architectural marvels are nothing short of breathtaking, including Shah-i-Zinda. The details were spectacular, and the layout of the mausoleums created a very unique atmosphere. If you go to this place one day, spending a few hours there will probably be a good idea. Thanks Aiva.
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🥰🥰🥰
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Maggie from Monkey’s Tale described the experience so well when she talked about poking their heads around every corner. There is nothing in the world that I’ve seen that’s quite like this site. The beauty is overwhelming.
Steve
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There was so much to see in each mausoleum. And there were so much detail in such a relatively compact place. I completely understand why Maggie really loved her visit to this necropolis.
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Gosh, what an intricately-decorated necropolis! It must’ve taken years to piece every little bit together…the Shah-i-Zinda is truly a remarkable monument, and this makes me want to visit Uzbekistan sooner than later! Thanks for sharing, Bama 😊
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I can’t imagine the amount of time it took to finish just one section of each mausoleum since everything was made manually by hand. And this is the reason why this compound now attracts a lot of people to marvel at the incredible craftsmanship required to create those ornate facades and interiors.
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The density of the decoration is impressive, giving an impression of magnificence.
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Density, the word aptly describes this place. Not only were the mausoleums built close to each other, but every single one of them is also intricately decorated.
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I’m enjoying your view of Samarkand
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Glad to hear that, I.J. I hope you’ll get to see these places yourself sooner than later!
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Amazing tile work. Great photos.
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Much appreciated, Marie. The craftspeople of the Timurid era undoubtedly produced among the most exquisite artworks not only in the region, but also in the world.
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Wow, those mausoleum are amazing. I do love the design; so intricate and so beautiful. (Suzanne)
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The details were really stunning. I can imagine you and Pierre taking a lot of great shots at this place.
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I’m always impressed when I see the talented handiwork of people from long ago, but this really must rank right near the top of human artistic accomplishment! It’s just staggering and is the kind of place I think I might linger at for a very long time. Always nice to have someone like you to spoon feed me the background and history, too! Sometimes I get so caught up in the viewing of things like this in person that I don’t take enough time to put it all in historical context.
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Sometimes I wonder, when a ruler or whoever in power commissioned something as intricately decorated as these mausoleums, what were in the minds of the artisans who had to do all the time-consuming work? But you’re right, Lex, about Shah-i-Zinda being among the most richly decorated ancient sites out there. The history of this place is quite interesting too as it provides an interesting case study about what some rulers in the past did to cement their legitimacy.
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The colourful tiles, mosaics, details and carvings are impressive. I can’t even imagine how long it must have taken to construct it. Not sure I’d enjoy the big tour groups though, but it sounds like it’s still worth the visit.
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Finishing a mausoleum must have taken years given the amount of intricate decorations each of them has. Despite its increasing popularity, Shah-i-Zinda is still worth seeing. You just have to be patient waiting for the tour groups to be transported to their next destination.
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You have done this magnificent place justice with this post! How amazing is it?!?!
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Thanks Anna! When you went there, were there a lot of other tourists?
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Oh yes it was quite busy!!! Very tricky to manoeuvre and try and get photos without the hordes!
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So this place is always busy then. Except for that one occasion when an Indonesian blogger I know went there right after it was closed. She begged the staff members to allow her in for a few minutes, which they luckily did, and she had the entire place for herself!
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Omg that’s lucky for her!!!
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Shah-i-Zinda was a real gem, though I was surprised at how busy it was so early in the morning (I couldn’t believe how many Chinese tourists there were at that hour). You could tell that some were genuinely interested in the history and architecture, but most seemed to view the necropolis purely as a backdrop for their social media snaps. Each of the mausoleums we visited had such beautiful details — their intricately tiled and painted domes and muqarnas were a sight to behold! If these royals and notable figures were remembered this way in death, just imagine how well they must have lived in life!
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I wonder if it was also because of the timing of our visit (we went in early October, which coincided with the Golden Week in China). You raised a good point here James about the luxury those royals enjoyed, which isn’t surprising given the far-reaching influence the Timurid dynasty had in the region.
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An amazing world indeed, Bama! 😍 These mausoleums and necropolis (a kinda creepy name, to be honest) are stunning and build to last and stand the test of time. The colours still radiant all these centuries later and the engravings tell a story of their own. Truly must be nice to have lived with such wealth to be able to have your love and legacy immortalized in that regard.
I did have the blessing of visiting the Taj Mahal in 2012 in Agra, India and it was spectacular. The level of thought and detail put into the tomb was just on another level.
Life can be so beautiful, even in death!
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Uzbekistan really spoiled me. I love the color blue and all of its shades, and as you can see the country’s most impressive monuments from the past are richly decorated with ornamentations in this hue. And what’s really great is that after many centuries, those color shades on the tiles and mosaics are still brilliant.
Wow, what an incredible sight it must have been when you saw the Taj Mahal in person! It’s still on my wish list, but India is such a big country I can’t pick a place I most want to see the next time I go there, because there are many!
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The colours were so lovely. And truly stand the test of time. I hope to see them in person one day! 🙏
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I sure hope so, Ab!
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Wow, what a place. The domes against the skyline are truly beautiful and your photos have captured it all so well. I can only imagine how long it took to construct, especially with al the intricate mosaics and tiling!
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It shouldn’t come as a surprise that a lot of people fall in love with this place, given those beautiful and intricate decorations. I surely hope that the art of making such detailed tileworks will not only survive, but also continue to be passed on for many more generations to come.
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As always Bama, your photos are stunning to say the least. And a delight to read. Ah, you make me homesick for Central Asia. I’ve sternly told myself to stick to central Europe and it is pretty but the truth? I long for the part of the world between Pakistan and Uzbekistan.
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Much appreciated, Ani. Your penchant for Central Asia really makes me wish I had more time to explore this region last year. But I can definitely see myself returning to this part of the world one day.
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What incredible colors that have withstood the test of time!
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And I surely hope those exquisite colors will remain bright for many more centuries to come.
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Now I know where the Mughal emperors got the idea of building their grand mausoleums. If you look at the photos of these elaborate structures, you would never think they are tombs. They are spectacular, from the outside to the inside.
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Spectacular is a word that aptly describes many ancient monuments in Uzbekistan, including those tombs at Shah-i-Zinda. How cool that you have seen some of the finest works commissioned by the Mughal emperors, including the Taj Mahal!
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These mausoleums are very beautiful, especially the entrances and front exteriors. Uzbekistan is a country that I do want to visit someday, having such impressive historic dynasties and architecture. I know Tamerlane, the great conqueror, was from Uzbekistan.
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I think you would enjoy Uzbekistan, Hilton, especially because you love history. And of course, it has so many beautiful monuments from the past, like these mausoleums.
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I don’t know much about Central Asia and it still seems very mysterious to me. Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan would be my first choices if I do go there. The closest I’ve been to that region is China’s Xinjiang, which borders Kazakhstan, which I just visited in June.
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Apart from Uzbekistan, I think Kazakhstan would also be a good place to start getting acquainted with Central Asia. Your journey across China sound so epic! I kind of miss doing something like that actually.
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