The slow ferry we took from Shau Kei Wan
It’s that time of the year again when I’m anticipating my annual winter holiday in Hong Kong, a tradition that only resumed in 2023 after a three-year pandemic-induced hiatus. To me, what makes Hong Kong such an endlessly attractive place is the wide variety of attractions that this small territory has to offer. From a very modern city, complete with world-class cultural spaces (like the West Kowloon Cultural District) and well-preserved heritage buildings, to the great outdoors (the secluded white-sand beaches and picturesque hiking trails of Sai Kung are among my favorites), Hong Kong is a well-rounded, captivating place. Apart from the main island itself where most of the city’s iconic skyscrapers are located, there are more than 250 small islands across the territory, each with its own distinct character, that provide different options to suit different interests: from camping grounds to kitesurfing spots, independent retailers to trendy restaurants. One particular island I visited last year turned out to be among the most interesting of all.
I was first intrigued by Tung Lung Chau after reading James’ blog post about this part of Hong Kong from his trip in October 2022. Situated in the eastern entrance to Victoria Harbour, it might at first give the impression of a regular verdant island with a peak that looks tempting to summit. However, beyond its unassuming appearance, it is in fact home to two sites from the past that seem to be right down my alley. Regular readers of this blog know about my penchant for anything ancient, and the prospect of seeing a millennia-old rock carving and the ruins of a centuries-old fort certainly piqued my interest.
We were lucky to pick a day with perfect weather for the excursion. Departing in the morning from Shau Kei Wan in eastern Hong Kong Island, we took a slow ferry to get to our destination – much slower and smaller indeed compared to the more modern boats that connect the city with some of the more popular outlying islands. I was expecting to get seasick, but the 40-minute ride which provided a nice glimpse into parts of Hong Kong I rarely see turned out to be quite uneventful, fortunately. Minutes before stopping briefly at a small pier at Nam Tong, the early 20th-century Hung Shing Temple came into view, its white walls in stark contrast with the lush forest behind it. Not long after we and a few other passengers disembarked, the ferry continued its journey to the main pier of the island further north.
Herons on Hong Kong Island
The 40-minute ferry ride to Tung Lung Chau
Early 20th-century Hung Shing Temple near the pier at Nam Tong, Tung Lung Chau
Some passengers, including us, disembarked here
The view of the smaller pier at the beginning of the hiking trail
Parts of the trail were shaded like this
But the higher you go, the shorter the vegetation becomes
The narrow Fat Tong Mun channel, the main entrance to Victoria Harbour from the east
The eastern parts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon
Going down to see the largest ancient rock carving in Hong Kong
It is said that this depicts a dragon descending to the sea
An elderly couple looking out to the city skyline on the horizon
Hong Kong loves to pave the many hiking trails it has, and the ones on Tung Lung Chau were no exception. Part of me think this takes away their natural look, but I also understand that by doing so the city government has provided its residents and visitors alike with better access to its hills and mountains. This undoubtedly encourages people to live a healthier and more active lifestyle, over the temptations of sedentary habits. At first, the trail was very much shaded, but after a while there were only low shrubs around us. Luckily, it was wintertime. I can imagine how much more exhausting it must be to do this in summer. We reached a lookout where the skyline of the eastern parts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon loomed on the horizon. But that was not what we came here for. Following another pathway, we tackled hundreds of steep steps going straight down to sea level. At the end of this was a Bronze Age artwork experts believe was created some 3,000 years ago. The one on Tung Lung Chau we were looking at is in fact the largest of the seven ancient rock carvings found across Hong Kong.
Since this path was a dead end, we had to go back up the same route, a short but intense exercise that made us pant by the time we reached the top of the steps. But fortunately, from here the rest of the hike proved to be rather easy. We kept following the paved trail leading to a section lined with pandanus trees – whose serrated leaves act as a warning not to get too close to them – which were then followed by another species of plant sporting clusters of flowers that looked rather insignificant individually, but together they really caught our attention. At one point, the trail took us very close to some rocky beaches which were constantly battered by the waves. Shortly afterward, however, we arrived at what remains of the 18th-century Tung Lung Fort, built by the Qing dynasty to ward off pirates operating in these waters. Unfortunately, we couldn’t enter the compound as it was closed off to the public for what seemed to be restoration works.
From the fort, we walked a little further to a viewpoint to see Tung Lung Chau’s dramatic northern cliffs before going to the island’s main pier where we planned to catch the ferry back to the city. Two hours after we started the hike, we were now at a surprisingly scenic white-sand beach situated right next to the northern pier. We spotted a young couple with their dog frolicking on the soft sand, while on the rocky outcrop on the other side of the pier were another couple who preferred to try their luck catching some fish with their fishing rods. It felt very peaceful here, and that’s the beauty of Hong Kong. Despite being one of the most densely populated cities on the planet, there are pockets of tranquility scattered all over the territory to heal weary souls. Less than half an hour later, the slow ferry arrived. For me, the ease of doing such excursions constitutes one of the most alluring qualities of Hong Kong. And that is why I can’t wait to go back.
One of the ferry boats passing by floating fish cages
A pandanus fruit (on Orchid Island in Taiwan we learned that when ripe we can make juice out of it)
Though exposed to the elements, the winter sun made the hike more bearable
Clusters of interesting blooms (I tried to look it up online, but it seems like many plants have similar-looking flowers)
Feeling the energy of the sea
The path to the ruined fort
The walls of the 18th-century Tung Lung Fort
We walked around the fort since we couldn’t go inside
Dramatic cliffs on the northern edges of Tung Lung Chau
A white-sand beach near the island’s main pier
The undulating roof of the pier’s waiting area
Natural and man-made lines
Leaving Tung Lung Chau
Back to the city
What an Amazing World! 
I haven’t been to this part of HK yet.
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This island is actually quite easy to reach as there are ferries from Shau Kei Wan — there is an MTR station in the area. Next time you go!
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You do seem to have everything there, Bama. I love ferries and islands and the surprises you can find there. Wishing you a peaceful, happy festive season.
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For its small size, Tung Lung Chau really has so many things to see. And the best part is it only takes a relatively short time to get there from the city. Enjoy the holiday season too, Jo!
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Thank you very much for your beautiful and interesting post! I have been in Hongkong and to some island and was very impressed, but probably I havn’t been on your gorgeous trail!
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Thank you, Martina. Every time a friend asks me what to do in Hong Kong, I always recommend visiting some of the small islands because of the different experiences they can offer. It’s hard to pick a favorite, though.
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Many thanks, Bama, for your advice and we very much enjoyed the food on the islands!
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You’re welcome, Martina. Dim sum does taste much better in Hong Kong!
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Nice post and photos, Bama. For an island so close to Hong Kong Island, I’ve somehow never heard of it. It looks like a very interesting place to explore with the old fort and rock carving. I’m glad you enjoy Hong Kong and all its different aspects – I think the mountains and islands do get overlooked by many international and mainland Chinese visitors.
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Thank you, Hilton. Tung Lung Chau turned out to be even more interesting than what I had anticipated. I always tell people to go to the mountains and the islands as well when they visit Hong Kong, because to me they are among the best places the city has to offer.
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I’m glad you do that, Bama, and they are indeed some of the best places to visit in Hong Kong.
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Earlier today at the office I did that again to some of my coworkers. 😃
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It must be so nice to escape the craziness of downtown HK for this more peaceful place!
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What makes Hong Kong so endearing to me is the fact that you can have dim sum in the city for breakfast, then go hiking afterwards, before checking out some cool museums in the afternoon.
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One mystery cleared up! Those floating mats that I kept wondering about are fish cages then.
I should do more in Hong Kong than just use the airport. That’s going to be one of my resolutions/intentions in the coming year
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Understandably, many people visit Hong Kong only for a brief stopover. But I do recommend staying a bit longer the next time you go.
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The great part about Hong Kong is having so many lush, peaceful hikes nearby. This one seems to have a bit of everything, hiking, nature, serenity, and history. Have a great trip! Maggie
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Exactly! Hong Kong’s hiking trails are something I always miss every time I return to Jakarta after my annual trip to the city. Everything there really encourages people to live an active lifestyle, which is great. Thanks Maggie!
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What a great get-away. I never realized that many islands made up HK.
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263 islands to be precise! And what’s great about them is they all have different characters. There is one that is closer to mainland China than to Hong Kong Island which I really want to see.
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How lovely – I really enjoyed HK and I was so surprised to discover how many islands it has – I’d really love to explore more of them. Your photos capture it beautifully.
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And Hong Kong’s efficient public transport makes it easy to visit many of those islands. I hope the next time you’re in the city you’ll have enough time to explore more. I recommend Cheung Chau and Peng Chau for their unique characters. Thanks Hannah!
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This is such a wonderful post, Bama and I very much enjoyed your photos! Wow, what a fantastic adventure. It’s quite amazing how beyond the city and almost out of sight, you can find the small but mountainous island of Tung Lung Chau that guards the eastern entrance to Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour. Taking a ferry to the island to enjoy its unique coastal scenery and sea cliffs, sounds like a great way to spend a few hours. May your holidays sparkle with joy and laughter 🙂 Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thank you, Aiva. Earlier today at the office I explained to some of my coworkers why I keep coming back to Hong Kong. I told them how easy it is to go hiking there, thanks to the extensive and reliable public transport. And there are hundreds of islands to choose from. I wish you joy and happiness this holiday season!
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Beautiful captures. Glad to hear you had fabulous weather to enjoy the scenery. It’s interesting to hear how many of the hiking trails are paved in Hong Kong. Agreed, it takes away from the whole natural experience a bit, but on the other, it makes the rough terrain more manageable and accessible.
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Thanks Linda. There is a great variety of hiking trails in Hong Kong, from very easy to difficult, from mountains to idyllic islands. Given your penchant for the outdoors, I think you would enjoy exploring the many trails Hong Kong has to offer.
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What a lovely holiday tradition that you have! I’m sending you lots of warm wishes for this holidays as I know it will be a harder one for you this year. Hope you can find relaxation and lots of beautiful scenery in Hong Kong during your break.
I love how Hong Kong has its urban jungle side and then its nature side. A great juxtaposition. Many of my classmates who relocated to Hong Kong often post photos of their nature hikes too. It’s very lovely to see.
Happy holidays and Merry Christmas?
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That’s meant to be a ! not ? 😂
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I’m actually leaving for Hong Kong in two days! Thank you for the wishes, Ab. I’m grateful to be able to spend the holidays with James and his family (and their cute dog!) again this year. I still remember how last year things went downhill really fast for my mom toward the end of December.
Any plans to visit your husband’s parents again this year? Wherever you’ll spend your holidays, I wish you and your family lots of happiness and love.
The proximity of nature from the downtown area of Hong Kong is really one of the city’s greatest qualities. No wonder a lot of people there are reasonably fit!
Happy holidays and Merry Christmas too! (don’t worry about the question mark in your comment 😂)
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Thanks Bama. Glad you have someone to spend the holidays with. 😊
We’re spending Christmas Eve tonight with family – my mom’s side. Then Christmas Day is just us three, which is just fine with me. Squid Game season two is out on Thursday so that’ll keep me busy. 😂
Have a wonderful time in Hong Kong!
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Thanks Ab! Sorry for only replying now since my trip to Hong Kong turned out to be quite busy involving me taking care of James’ seven-year-old nephew. Overall, it was still a fun trip though.
Have a great New Year’s Eve!
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Welcome back from your trip! Sounds like you might be getting some parenting practice! 😆 Hope the nephew is ok!
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He always brought his rubik cubes everywhere and told me to solve them (which I never did!). 😆
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That sounds like fun! It’s Legos over here for us.
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Although it’s a small city, Hong Kong is jam-packed full of things to do, see, and eat. It’s a part of China I haven’t been to yet, although it’s been on my radar for some time now. As there are direct flights over from Los Angeles, I hope to venture over some day to explore this bustling place (and try to learn Cantonese, I hope)! Have a wonderful trip back to Hong Kong, and report back!
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I think you should visit Hong Kong one day, Rebecca. And to me Cantonese sounds fun! It seems like in every visit I always see something new, which is very exciting. I will surely write about the city again in the future.
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That will be good hidden gems for plenty of tourists across the western and eastern atmosphere. I hope to venture over someday to explore this bustling place (and try to learn Cantonese, I hope)! Have a wonderful trip back to Hong Kong, and report back! A couple of times, nobody visited for the holidays.
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Thank you! I just came back two days ago. While the weather was not as nice as last year, this trip was still a fun one.
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This sounds like an interesting hike; and confirms the appeal of Hong Kong. I’ve always loved it every time I’ve been. Lovely photos Bama. — Alison
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Thank you, Alison. I just came back from Hong Kong, but unlike last year, this time it was mostly cloudy. When the sun did come out, there was this persistent haze that lingered in the city and over its hills. So, no hiking this time. But fortunately, we still managed to see some really cool stuff.
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This looked like a wonderful trip in winter, Bama. The water looked so beautiful and as you said, you got the perfect weather. It is interesting to read about hiking trails in Hong Kong. It sounds like the trails provide access to nature and hills despite ‘modernising’ a part of nature and surrounds. The trails you went on sounded not too difficult but very, very sunny to keep you warm in winter – but probably best to take an umbrella in the summer! The beaches sound like a great place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Hope you get to go back again soon. Wishing you a wonderful year ahead, with more safe travels 😊
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We were lucky with the weather last year, but this year not so much. Anyway, I have done hiking in Hong Kong when it was rather hazy. While it wasn’t the best time, but I still enjoyed the experience. The city’s setting really is beautiful and dramatic, thanks to those hills and islands. I wish you good health and lots of happiness in the new year, Mabel!
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Great information. Happy New Year!
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Happy New Year to you too! Are you spending New Year’s Eve in Colombia?
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Ancient rock carvings will inspire me to travel quite far, Bama. Love your picture of “the dragon descending to the sea”. It is quite ornate compared to so many other rock carvings I know of. Not that I can see a dragon per se, but I can definitely see some crashing waves. 😆 I didn’t know that there are 250 island in Hong Kong’s territory. Wow, you can spend a lifetime just discovering those. Wishing you many more happy discoveries in Hong Kong, and a joyful revisit to those places you love. May 2025 be filled with blessings.
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I can totally relate to you, Jolandi, in terms of traveling to faraway places to see things that are ancient. I certainly couldn’t see the dragon, but those lines and patterns were undoubtedly fascinating. Given its location, you might be right about the crashing waves on the carving! While we had some islands in mind, in our latest trip to Hong Kong a week ago we decided not to go to the islands due to this frustratingly persistent haze. Maybe next time. I wish you a year full of happiness ahead!
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What a pity about the persistent haze, Bama. One can never book the weather, one can simply adjust one’s plans accordingly. A friend and I recently spent a night away, but wanted to visit a couple of places along the way. The first day we encountered such thick mist that we could hardly see anything, although we did stop at one or two places, and it was quite atmospheric, I would definitely want to revisit, as it will be a completely different experience when the sun is shining.
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I told James if I could choose a superpower, it would be controlling the weather. Jokes aside, actually it’s probably better to experience a place in different weather conditions, so we can appreciate the big draws and the little things equally.
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That would be an awesome superpower. 😅
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A nice hike to visit this beautiful place. Thanks for taking us along. (Suzanne)
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My pleasure, Suzanne. Unfortunately, last week when we were in Hong Kong again the weather was nowhere near as nice as the year before.
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Bama, looking back I’m amazed with how much we saw of Hong Kong in that one week at the tail end of 2023. And the weather couldn’t have been better. I liked how the excursion to Tung Lung Chau took up less than half a day. Though the fort and the mini-museum next door were closed for renovations, at least you got to see the ancient Bronze Age rock carving up close. It’s a testament to the reliability of Hong Kong’s public transport network that we made it back to the city in time for a hearty lunch of baked seafood rice!
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I’m amazed by the amount of things we managed to do in Hong Kong during the Christmas holiday in 2023. But again, it was all possible thanks to the city’s great public transport network. This is something I wish more Indonesians can experience so that they know that good and reliable public transit does make our lives easier. I just feel that apart from those living in Jakarta, many people who live in other cities in the country haven’t realized yet that there is a better way of going around than just relying on your own private vehicle.
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Tung Lung Chau looks like such a beautiful place, and very different from what I thought could be explored in Hong Kong! In some pictures, and if you don’t look too closely at the vegetation or achitecture, you might think it is a very Mediterranean island! Thanks for taking us to explore this peaceful gem with you!
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And it’s just one of the many beautiful islands Hong Kong has, which is one of the main reasons why I love this city. It’s interesting how some of my photos of Tung Lung Chau reminded you of the Mediterranean, because someone I know thought that the beach shots I took at another corner of Hong Kong were taken somewhere in eastern Indonesia where beautiful and pristine beaches abound. Hong Kong really is full of surprises.
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Wow! Such an amazing view. When i see for first time, i thought is in europe 😆
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Fortunately, Hong Kong is a lot closer to Indonesia than Europe. 🙂
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