Revisiting the recently reopened National Museum of Indonesia (Museum Nasional)
On a particularly sunny day in June 2023, James and I revisited the National Museum of Indonesia as we were curious with how it looked after being closed for renovations. Across the courtyard of the old wing, a few statues that were placed at inconspicuous locations caught my attention. Their carving style was more ornate and flamboyant than the other artifacts nearby. But these were not as ancient as the rest, for they were replicas of Singhasari-era Hindu deities carved out by highly-skilled Javanese sculptors around seven centuries ago. The originals happened to be residing at a museum in Leiden, the Netherlands, controversially moved away from their homeland when Indonesia was still a Dutch colony. Seeing them, as I often told James, was one of my main reasons for putting the Netherlands in the list of countries I most wanted to visit.
Not long after our trip to the museum, news broke that the former colonial power would soon return the very statues I had been dreaming of seeing to Indonesia. And on August 22 the same year, they finally arrived at the National Museum, welcomed by government officials and the media with much fanfare. However, less than a month later on September 16, a rather uneventful Saturday night suddenly turned into a nightmare no one had even remotely thought about: the most important museum in the country was on fire! Videos circulating on social media showed how the rear side of the old wing was consumed in an inferno.
My heart sank, and I immediately tried to remember what was on display in that part of the compound, desperately wishing that the damage wouldn’t be too extensive. In the aftermath of the incident, the museum was closed and the government announced that they would carry out fundamental reforms. Experts from around the globe were brought in to Jakarta to contribute not only to the recovery of the burned artifacts, but also to the improvement of the museum itself. I sighed with more than a little relief when I found out the items recently repatriated from the Netherlands were stored safely in another building.
During the museum’s closure, I regularly checked on their social media accounts to get updated on the latest developments of the restoration and renovation works. Month after month, I kept wishing to see them announcing their reopening. Finally, on October 15, 2024, the museum once again began welcoming the public. But they made it clear that this was only the first of multiple phases of the institution’s reinvention.
Last weekend, James and I went there to see its temporary exhibition highlighting the impact of last year’s fire, as well as to check out the repatriated collection from the Netherlands. The moment we stepped inside the vestibule of the 19th-century building, it was evident that the institution has indeed improved. Gone were ancient statues haphazardly tucked away in every corner making this section look like a sad storehouse. Instead, the space now feels airy with a better curation of items on display. As we walked toward the courtyard, I was ecstatic to see how the large 13th-century Nandi statue that was once cordoned off can now be marveled at closely. I still vividly remember getting scolded when I stepped on the grass surrounding this statue as I wanted to read the label placed right next to it. “How are visitors supposed to read that?” I protested at the staff member who shouted at me.
The vestibule now looks less cramped with a better curation of artifacts
I felt ecstatic to finally be able to see this Nandi up close
Toward a museum that is more welcoming and engaging
An 11th-century makara from Jambi in Sumatra (left); a royal couple from East Java from the 14th or 15th century
A section of the museum that was burned down
Looking at a nightmare
Artifacts in different levels of damage
This one is among those with the worst condition
They look only lightly damaged
This nekara from 200 BCE was damaged beyond repair in just one night
A heavily-scorched and partly melted Buddha
The lucky ones
After looking at the bull up close (the cowbell was a cute touch), we headed to the first exhibition. Behind a glass window, visitors were presented with a harrowing scene of the debris from the incident. However, what was more heartbreaking was the artifacts scavenged from the ashes. Mangled bronze figurines, deformed wooden statues, sooted ceramics, the fire damage came in different forms. On the other side of the darkened room were two larger objects: a nekara (a bronze kettle drum) from 200 BCE warped and melted into smithereens and a bronze Buddha statue from around the second to the fourth century CE that looked severely beaten. These artifacts had survived for millennia but succumbed to the fire of the 21st century in a single night. To describe it as tragic is an understatement.
We walked to another part of the exhibition showcasing the tools the museum staff used to restore the damaged collection. Some beautiful figurines caught my attention, for they appeared to be perfectly unscarred. Apparently, that’s because they had been transferred to another section of the museum in preparation for an exhibition at the Nara National Museum in Japan. I won’t be surprised if some people see them as lucky charms as they clearly dodged the bullet.
We were now entering the newer wing of the compound, and there they were, the glorious Hindu statues from East Java which for decades had to call Leiden home. Titled “Repatriasi”, this exhibition also showcased dozens of Balinese paintings and wood carvings which although were not forcibly procured were returned to Indonesia nonetheless. Unsurprisingly, we spent so much time taking pictures of the large statues, each embellished with spectacularly ornate decorations, from clothing patterns, jewelry, headdresses, and even plants. They provided us with an invaluable window to the past when these items were most likely worn by Javanese royals.
One particularly nice surprise was the statue of Prajñaparamita, a female Buddha that symbolizes the highest knowledge and wisdom in Mahayana Buddhism. Also from the Singhasari era, the 13th-century masterpiece is often cited as one of the most sublime artistic creations of classical Java. In my previous visits, she was always kept with gold artifacts in the treasury, a high-security chamber of the museum where photography is not allowed. To see her again and to be able to capture her beauty with my own camera truly felt special.
Although we didn’t spend as much time at the museum as we usually would, we left with high hopes of the institution’s ongoing transformation. If this visit was an indication, we can expect to see more exciting things to come. I can certainly dream that the many precious artifacts they have in their collection can eventually be presented in a more dignifying way. We shall see.
Prajñaparamita, a testament to the pinnacle of Javanese classical art
Back to their tropical home from decades in Leiden: Mahakala (left) and Durga Mahisasuramardini
Also returning to Java: Bhairava (left) and Brahma, one of the Trimurti (the trinity of supreme deity in Hinduism)
These two forms of Ganesha also bid adieu to Leiden
Details of the seated Ganesha
What an Amazing World! 
I’m glad you were able to finally make it to the Museum Nasional after so long. While it’s a pity that some artifacts were burned, many still remain and stand the test of time. Even better that many were repatriated from the former colonizers! I’m sure it was a good time checking out your country’s culture on display, and to appreciate all it has to show to the world. Thanks for sharing, Bama 😊
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They managed to save whatever could be saved. But the damage to some of the collection is truly heartbreaking. I hope proper safety measures have been taken to make sure that incidents like this will never happen again. Thanks Rebecca.
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Pingback: Reblog: New Hopes Rising from the Ashes, By Bama – Stories From Indonesia
The repatriated statues are beautiful pieces. I often wonder when we recover such stolen artifacts whether we can put it back in its original place rather than displaying it again in a museum.
Glad to know that the museum has improved after the fire.
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Exactly my thought about those Singhasari statues actually. It would be really cool to see ancient statues at their original locations. However, since I have been to the temple from where these artifacts were taken, I think for the time being the museum is a better and safer place for them.
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Interesting post. I think it is good that they displayed some of the damaged items. It brings the reality of the fire to the museum visitor. And the returned objects are beautiful.
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I agree. Showing the public the extent of the damage brings more awareness of the importance of safeguarding these invaluable artifacts.
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Incredible pictures of a by gone era.
We don’t typically see much of this part of the world in our media.
Thanks for sharing.
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I’m glad this post introduced you to a sliver of Indonesia’s long history. That’s why we blog, for it allows people from around the world to share interesting and unique things that are rarely covered in the media. Thanks for reading.
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Seeing these pieces is fantastic as I am currently reading a book about ancient India’s reach into the world. The chapters how they reached Java have been interesting, and now I can see some of the art styles mentioned! Good job as always mate!
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Isn’t it interesting to see traces of ancient Indian influence in the region and how they evolved? The same gods can be found in places like Cambodia and Vietnam, but each place has its own unique characters. Glad you enjoyed this, Anna!
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Dulu banget ke museum nasional sekali dan sepi 🙂 Kalo ke jakarta kayaknya bakalan lihat lagi terutama yg segmen bagian museum yg terbakar
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Saya penasaran sih sama hasil akhir renovasi Museum Nasional secara menyeluruh setelah kebakaran tahun kemarin. Sepertinya patut ditunggu. Dulu waktu ke sana pas hari kerja kah mas?
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Hari libur seingatku mas.
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Wah sekarang sih kalau weekend Museum Nasional selalu rame.
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Syukurlah mas 😀 Gak bisa boong ada hikmah kebakaran taun lalu juga, jadi orang ngeh
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Bisa jadi sih. Dan sejak beberapa tahun ini ada ruang imersif juga yang sepertinya cukup bikin banyak orang yang tadinya kurang tertarik sejarah jadi penasaran untuk datang ke Museum Nasional.
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betul sekali mas, orang suka cari yg baru, kalo museum gitu2 aja ya orang terutama generasi muda gak bakalan tertarik, perlu gebrakan biar rame.
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Oh my goodness, the fire really caused some awful damage. It looks a wonderful Museum, and it’s so great the statues have been returned to their rightful home.
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For some reason your comment ended up in my spam folder. Glad I saw it so I could un-spam it. The damage from the fire was really heartbreaking. But I’m glad the museum is now taking steps to improve itself because it is a custodian of centuries- and millennia-old cultures and traditions across the archipelago.
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It is always devastating to learn about a fire in a museum as you lose more than a past to the flames. Just a mere idea that a fire can engulf historical treasures is devastating, especially given that museums are treasure troves of history and culture with a storied legacy but I am glad to hear that museums’ efforts to salvage priceless artefacts bore fruit. Let’s hope they are working hard on insulating high-risk areas to prevent the spread of fire and that building control officers and fire officers are invited to inspect premises regularly to prevent this from happening again. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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It was very devastating indeed. One of the people responsible for the museum said how she rushed to the scene and cried when she saw the damage. It’s not only because she has been taking care of those artifacts for decades, but it’s more about the insurmountable loss for the nation and for humanity. We all certainly hope that something like this will never happen again. Thanks for reading, Aiva.
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🥰🥰🥰
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This is so sad, seeing your pictures of the half melted Buddha and other charred remains almost brought a tear to my eye. The repatriated collection though is marvelous. Prajñaparamita is so delicately carved, and Ganesh is beautiful. I’m glad you were finally able to see them up close and in person. Maggie
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Everyone who understands the value and importance of historical artifacts will share the same sentiment. This incident shouldn’t have happened if proper measures had been taken to ensure the entire premises was fireproof. It was very exciting to see those repatriated statues.
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Despite the destruction from the fire and lost artifacts, it was promising to learn that Holland has returned so many sculptures and paintings. This has been happening in a number of countries and hopefully will continue.
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I have been reading similar news from Cambodia and Nigeria, and it’s really encouraging to see this trend. This also encourages people to visit the lands where the ancient artifacts come from.
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Glad to hear the museum was able to be restored after the fire and that not all was lost. It looks like they have an impressive collection. It’s also kind of neat how they turned the impact of the fire into a temporary exhibit.
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The collection is really impressive. But I always thought the museum needed to be revamped so those artifacts could be showcased more elegantly. Little did we know it took such an unfortunate incident for the institution to reform themselves in earnest.
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Museums play such a vital role in society in preserving the past and connecting modern day with history that enriches the present. And it’s wonderful when governments invest the time and money to restore these institutions.
I’m very sorry that your national museum suffered through the fire. That photo you shared of the debris does look like such a nightmare and I’m glad that the damage
was minimal and those artifacts recently returned from the Netherlands were in another building.
The tour you shared is lovely and the restoration looks great. Here’s hoping you get to visit again and share more as the phased opening transpires.
And the Netherlands are on my wishlist to visit one day too!
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Every time I travel abroad, I always try to visit national museums not only to learn about each country’s history, but also to see how they compare with the Museum Nasional in Jakarta. I was particularly impressed with what Seoul and Melbourne have. And in my opinion, even Beirut has a better museum. But I’m quite excited to see how Indonesia’s national museum is transforming. I will definitely go back.
It would be funny if we bump into each other somewhere in the Netherlands!
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I am convinced we will encounter each other in travel one day!
It’s amazing how many countries you’ve visited. That’s a wonderful way to live life!
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Actually earlier this morning I realized how much I plan my life around my travels. 😆 There is something so fascinating and addictive about seeing the world.
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It’s a good way to plan your life!
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What a tragedy that fire was, but what a beautiful new space has arisen from it. Sometimes it takes the breaking down of the old to make way(and willingness) for the new. And how wonderful that the items from the Netherlands were not destroyed.
Alison
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It truly was a very sad night. I was worried about those repatriated statues because a few years ago I watched a documentary about how an ancient statue which was taken from the Middle East (Iraq, I think) was severely destroyed when the museum it was in (which was in Germany) burned down. Luckily those Singhasari-era artworks were kept away from the fire.
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I’m really glad to see this post as I really like visiting museums, especially history museums. It’s sad that the museum suffered a bad fire, but it’s good that the renovations have resulted in the improvements which you pointed out. Some of the stone statues like the makara and the royal couple statue remind me of the exhibits in Cambodia’s national museum in Phnom Penh. I think it’s very interesting to see Indonesian Buddhist and Hindu exhibits, and I’m sure there are also exhibits from after Islam arrived. I hope to visit Indonesia in the future and by then, I guess more of the museum will be open again so I look forward to that.
The Netherlands also has an impressive national museum, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, which I visited last year during my Europe trip. I believe there are paintings of Indonesia though I can’t remember if there are Indonesian statues. Part of Taiwan was also briefly a Dutch colony – the city of Tainan was built by them – but I didn’t see anything about Taiwan.
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I think you would enjoy the national museum in Jakarta, Hilton. But I suggest to wait until the transformation/restoration is completed. When I visited Phnom Penh during my backpacking years, I actually stayed very close to the national museum. Having seen so many ancient Hindu and Buddhist statues from South and Southeast Asia, I find it interesting to see each place’s interpretation of the same gods/characters.
I will surely go to the Rijksmuseum if I ever come to Amsterdam. A friend of mine who’s usually disinterested in museums even enjoyed her visit there. What I also want to see in the Netherlands is the former headquarters of the Dutch East India Company (the VOC). I wonder if part of the reason for the absence of Taiwan-related artworks in the museum is because of the fact that the Dutch occupied Taiwan only for a relatively short period of time.
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Ok, I will check whether the restoration is complete when I plan to visit Indonesia.
I would have wanted to visit the former HQ of the VOC. I didn’t know about it.
I think that’s a good reason why there were no Taiwan exhibits at the Rijksmuseum. When the Dutch were besieged by Koxinga, the Chinese admiral who eventually captured Tainan, there was an attempt to get reinforcements from the VOC at Jakarta but the VOC leadership decided against it presumably because they didn’t think Tainan was important.
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Maybe Tainan was just too far from Batavia it became impractical for the VOC to send further reinforcements to defend Fort Zeelandia and Fort Provintia.
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Yes, that is one reason. Another is likely that Koxinga’s forces were too large and the VOC couldn’t risk or did not have enough men to send.
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That makes sense.
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It is heartening that you were able to see such valuable and historic pieces of Indonesian history & art returned to the museum; their beauty must be even more powerful now that they are home. It is also fascinating to hear how the fire has affected the museum and the overall mood of viewing art ~ and to read about how inviting the rooms have become post-fire (always such a sorrowful thing to hear and witness). Your writing is also inspiring in that not only valuable pieces were saved, but even pieces that were damaged (some severely like the charred wood) are on display, and while so damaged ~ they still hold so much emotion and history. Well done, Bama. It’s a great piece of writing and photography!
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It’s always fascinating to see pieces of art created by those who lived centuries, even millennia, before our time. Having those Singhasari-era statues back in Indonesia after decades in the Netherlands feels really special. I wish I had a photo of that bronze kettle drum before the fire — an intact artifact that survived the test of time for more than 2,000 years. It was heartbreaking to see it now. I think the damaged artifacts on display sent a powerful message to everyone that we have to take a better care of our heritage because once it is gone, it is gone forever. Thanks Randall!
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I’m glad the museum is rebuilding and I think it’s important that they show the damaged parts of the museum and the artifacts too. I hope it’ll give the public more understanding of how much it takes to restore, conserve and keep these artifacts safe. Too bad about the sign and the staff who didn’t seem to understand their role.
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I also think showing the damage is important so that the public here in Indonesia understand the importance of safeguarding our centuries- and millennia-old heritage. After I protested at him, I remember him replying to me that he was just doing what his supervisor told him to do. And when I said to him that he could tell his supervisor the feedback I gave him, he only shrugged it off. That’s why it’s really nice to see how they opened up that space.
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Thank you for taking us with you on your visit of this beautiful museum! I am glad you didn’t have to travel all the way to the Netherlands to see the statues (although I still recommend you visit the Netherlands – for other reasons)!
It also really shows how a careful attention to structure and presentation can go a long way in attracting visitors and making them more interested!
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And thank you for reading! I will probably still go to the Netherlands eventually given its long history with Indonesia.
I don’t dare to imagine the national museum in Jakarta to be on the same level with the Louvre — that’s a tall order! But I’ve certainly seen how good history museums can be engaging and attractive even for those who are usually not necessarily interested in this subject. That’s how I envision the Museum Nasional to be in the future.
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Beautiful museum! Well shared with beautiful photos and description
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Thank you for reading.
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💐
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The statue of Prajñaparamita is truly exquisite, Bama!
How wonderful that the Netherlands decided to return the precious artefacts to Indonesia. It seems to be a contentious issue in many parts of the world that was part of various empires, so it is wonderful to know that they were returned to where they originate from.
The National Museum of Indonesia indeed seems to have risen from the ashes in what appears to be a much improved version of its former self. Although sad, I think it was clever to include the fire and destruction of priceless artefacts as a chapter of the museum’s history.
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In the past, every time I went to the national museum I always wondered if one day I could take a photo of that Prajñaparamita. So you can imagine my excitement when I saw it next to the statues repatriated from the Netherlands. I had to make sure that photography was indeed allowed.
Sometime last week I looked up the March 2023 issue of the National Geographic magazine in my cabinet, and now I can relate to what is written on its cover even more. It says that returning treasures to where they came from isn’t closing museums. Instead, it’s opening new doors.
I think the museum’s decision to show the damaged parts of the compound was not only brave, but also necessary.
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I too like what was written on the cover of National Geographic, Bama. That is so true.
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Looks like the museum did a great job with all these pieces. Amazing!
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Based on what I saw, I definitely have high hopes for the museum’s ongoing transformation. We’ll see.
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Mas Bama,
Percaya gak sih, beberapa hari ini pikiran saya selalu ke Museum Nasional sampai akhirnya saya juga dibawa membaca tulisan ini padahal awalnya saya gak tau ini cerita Museum Nasional lhooo.
Duluuu pernah berkali-kali kesana, yang terakhir (udah lama juga, sebelum pandemi) saya merasa sedih karena ongkos parkir lebih mahal daripada tiket masuk, banyak dari benda-benda bersejarah itu diletakkan begitu saja tanpa informasi sehingga lebih mirip tempat simpan (daripada mengatakan gudang) daripada sebuah museum. Lalu ketika mendengar kebakaran melanda museum nasional, hati ini sakiiit banget mas Bama. Dengan segala hal yang terakhir saya lihat di Museum itu, ya ga heran hal buruk seperti kebakaran bisa terjadi.
Lalu ketika lihat foto dampak kebakaran itu, aduh kuat gak ya kalo kesana? Tapi saya rindu lhoo liat segala macam benda-benda bersejarah itu… Jadi, terima kasih mas Bama, karena sudah berbagi cerita. At least, saya siap dengan kondisi itu.
Melihat tiket masuknya, saya gak yakin semua benda-benda itu diasuransikan. Lalu apakah sekarang, setelah kebakaran itu, apakah ada dana untuk asuransinya? Aduh, gemes banget…
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Nah, bener banget mbak. Museum Nasional itu koleksinya sebetulnya keren banget. Tapi sayangnya selama ini penempatannya kurang optimal jadi terkesan asal taruh aja. Saya ingat betul waktu lihat video Museum Nasional kebakaran saya berharap gak ada koleksi yang terdampak. Tapi begitu baca berita ternyata cukup banyak yang rusak, hati ini beneran mencelos rasanya membayangkan benda-benda yang berumur ratusan bahkan ribuan tahun rusak dalam semalam.
Kalau mau ke Museum Nasional sekarang mungkin Mbak Riyanti langsung ke bagian arca yang direpatriasi dari Belanda aja mbak. Itu bagus-bagus banget sih.
Soal asuransi dan perlindungan secara keseluruhan, semoga bener yang saya baca bahwa pemerintah sekarang lebih serius mengurus Museum Nasional. Suka gemes sih harus ada kejadian seperti ini dulu baru berubah.
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It is heartbreaking to see the damages caused by the fire. A fire in a museum is probably one of the worst one can imagine; so many treasures that are damaged or gone. Glad to see that the museum took the opportunity to improve the display of its wonderful collection. (Suzanne)
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Heartbreaking indeed. But since then, so far the museum seems to have been doing the right things, which I hope are not just superficial. I can’t wait for the whole revamp to be completed.
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My heart sank the night of the fire when I saw the videos of the museum going up in flames. I distinctly remember visiting the bronze room and the adjoining galleries with you during the pandemic… it is terrible that so many priceless artifacts were either lost or irreversibly damaged (the half-melted Buddha and destroyed bronze kettle drum really hammered that point home). Thankfully the fire was contained before it could spread to the sculpture galleries or the museum’s newer wing.
On our most recent visit, it was encouraging to see the exhibits arranged in a more thoughtful way compared to in the past, when the gallery closest to the museum entrance felt like a storeroom. And those recently repatriated classical Javanese statues were fabulous. I do hope Indonesia’s National Museum continues to improve and more safety features are put in place to prevent a similar disaster from happening again.
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Of all bad things that can happen to a museum, fire is definitely one of the worst because unlike looting or stealing of artifacts, in many cases those damaged by fire can’t be fixed. For a long time I felt that the museum’s presentation was rather substandard considering its invaluable collection. Little did I know that it also lacked proper fire prevention and control. Since then, the government finally start taking concrete actions to prevent similar incidents from happening again.
So far things are looking good. I can’t wait to go back when the entire revamp project has been completed.
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A burning museum seems like torching human memory…
I was just in Indonesia for the first time. Yogyakarta. I’ll try the National Museum next time.
Thanks for the post.
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The fire has indeed left an indellible scar. But it has also given everyone here a very expensive lesson on the importance of taking a good care of our heritage. I hope you’ll get to visit the National Museum the next time you come to Indonesia.
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Will do my best… (jumpa lagi) 😉
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