Early morning at Lake Beratan
A long time ago in the north of Bali an ancient volcano erupted, leaving a giant caldera in the aftermath. While studies on this past natural disaster are limited, one thing is certain: this part of the island has been blessed with a high amount of rainfall thanks to its geographical location. Over time, water started to fill in parts of the uneven surface of the caldera, eventually forming three lakes in the Bedugul highlands.
Today, a large percentage of people who travel from far corners of the world come to Bali to see its much-publicized beaches – although I personally think those on the neighboring island of Lombok were more spectacular, like Tanjung Aan and Selong Belanak which I visited in 2013. However, those who have heard about the beauty of Bali’s mountainous regions often include Bedugul and Kintamani in their itineraries, two picturesque highlands that were both formed by explosive volcanic eruptions eons ago. Unfortunately, this increasing popularity means the excessive commercialization that has plagued the south has started to creep northward. I will talk more about Kintamani in a separate post. But this time let me take you to Bedugul where its three lakes – each with its own personality – convinced me that the Bali a lot of people have fallen in love with is thankfully not lost.
Let me start with the name itself. Bedugul was derived from two traditional percussion instruments bedug and kulkul. The former was introduced by the Sasak community from Lombok who were (and still are) predominantly Muslim, while the latter has been an integral part of life for Balinese Hindus. The presence of the Sasak people deep in the hinterland of Bali can be attributed to the history of Karangasem, a kingdom from the eastern part of the island which once also controlled Lombok. Founded in the early 17th century, the formerly influential power was defeated by the Dutch in the late 19th century. Subsequently, the European colonial administration began extracting the region’s resources, resulting in the degradation of its forests.
When the Dutch realized they had to restore the natural landscape of Karangasem, they did so by relocating some of its residents to Bedugul and compensating them for the lands they lost as a consequence. Present-day visitors will immediately notice the sizable Sasak community in this part of Bali through the presence of mosques and restaurants serving halal food alongside Balinese Hindu temples and eateries specializing in local pork dishes. This is particularly evident near the first lake I’m taking you to.
Lake Beratan
The most visited and photographed of the three, Lake Beratan is situated next to the main highway that connects the island’s north and south regions, one of the main reasons for its popularity. The other reason? The iconic Pura Ulun Danu Beratan. My first time seeing it up close was in December 2011 during rainy season where a heavy downpour welcomed me as you can see in this post from more than a decade ago. Two years later, and after successfully convincing James to see the island – he was reluctant at first because in his mind Bali was just a very touristy part of Indonesia – we went to Lake Beratan, also in December. It wasn’t raining, but the skies were still rather gray and dull. It’s the highlands though where generally the weather is more in flux than on the beaches.
A few months ago, we returned to this part of Bali. Determined to see Pura Ulun Danu Beratan without the crowds – most people visit this place on a day trip – this time we stayed just 5 km from the lake so we could arrive early without having to wake up at an ungodly hour. Our driver Yana was surprised to see the automatic gate to the parking area of the temple ground still raised. Not wanting to break any laws, he got out of the car and checked if the other gates were working, but they had simply not been activated yet. After buying our tickets, James and I entered the seemingly almost deserted place. It was a little hazy, but it was my first time seeing Lake Beratan bathed in the sun. Magical is definitely not an overstatement to describe what I saw. With the warm sunlight coming from the east, I walked along a pathway that is usually filled with visitors – speaking of which, this time I only spotted a young European couple, a small group of elderly South Koreans, and a few locals. It was very quiet and relaxing, and the main tower of Pura Ulun Danu Beratan with its 11-tiered roof made from ijuk (a fiber from the trunk of Arenga pinnata, also known as the sugar palm) appeared to be floating in the calm water.
Water is so important and sacred to the Balinese they even have their own unique water management system called subak. It is at the core of the success of the inscription of multiple sites on the island onto the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2012. Every lake in Bali has its own pura (Balinese Hindu temple) dedicated to Danu, the goddess associated with rivers and lakes. A centuries-old inscription written on a lontar frond (from Borassus flabellifer, the Asian palmyra palm) recounts the construction of Pura Ulun Danu Beratan in 1634 by a ruler who later also commissioned Pura Taman Ayun, the royal temple of Mengwi, another local Balinese kingdom.
We wrapped up this peaceful visit on a high note, before large tour groups and day trippers started arriving. There was a palpable sense of spirituality all over the temple grounds, and I’m grateful to have been able to experience it with the soft morning sun slowly rising in the east.
I had never seen Pura Dalem Purwa (part of the Pura Ulun Danu Beratan complex) glowing like this
Ornate finials atop different structures at the temple
Smaller structures within the temple grounds
A highly ornate pavilion probably used for gatherings
The indirect light from the morning sun helped illuminate the ceiling of this structure
Garuda holding up a pillar in the northern end of the pavilion
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, the main reason for most people to come to Bedugul
Morning reflections
Pura Penataran Beratan, another Hindu temple within the compound
Garuda and Vishnu at Pura Penataran Beratan
These decorative panels never looked so bright
Inspired by a chapter of the Ramayana, one of the greatest Hindu epics
The wantilan (a pavilion used as a public space) of the temple compound
The mosque in the background is run by the local Sasak community
Lake Buyan
Bedugul, however, also has its fair share of tourist traps. On our second full day in the area, we were pondering the idea of checking out the Bali Botanic Garden, one of four botanic gardens managed by the Indonesian government, which is not too far from Lake Beratan. We’ve been to the other three – all in Java – so a visit to the one in Bali would be nice, or so we thought. It was Sunday morning and Yana told us how busy it usually is on weekends. The prospect of being out in nature with so many cars around us didn’t sound appealing, so without hesitation we asked him to go straight to the other two lakes in Bedugul which we expected to be less busy than the botanic garden.
The largest of the three, Lake Buyan was pleasantly low-key. There were a few pavilions at a campsite along its northern banks, each occupied by small families picnicking in the highlands as well as a small group of friends from Java who were just lazing around. Given the calm ambiance and the occasional breeze, I can’t blame them for dozing off in the shaded shelters. James and I followed the pathway that led to a small pier from which we could better appreciate the expanse of the mirror-like lake.
A few local fishermen in their dugout canoes rowed around slowly, adding to the unhurried ambiance of this place. However, unlike in Lake Beratan, Lake Buyan’s own pura dedicated to Danu – Pura Ulun Danu Buyan – was situated farther away from the water at the foot of the hill that is part of the wall of the ancient caldera. As much as I wanted to see it, I decided not to since devotees seemed to be preparing for a religious ceremony at the temple.
A quiet morning at Lake Buyan
A beautiful corner of Bali’s highlands
The locals and their relaxing pace of life
Beyond the hill in the far background is the smallest of the three lakes of Bedugul
Canang sari is one of the most fascinating aspects of the quotidian life on the island
Pura Ulun Danu Buyan where a religious ceremony was about to take place when we arrived
Lake Tamblingan
We returned to our car and continued our journey westward via a mountain road following the contours of the caldera. Yana expertly navigated some very tricky hairpin bends while telling us how one time in the past his car encountered a problem with the brakes when he was driving in this area. If anything, it was actually reassuring to know how he handled the situation level-headedly. After a while, the roads became narrower and we saw less and less cars. We eventually arrived at a parking area where a group of middle-aged men were getting ready to go hiking. Yana wasn’t sure if he could drive any further, but one of the men told him he could.
“How far is the lake?” I inquired.
“It’s around 200 meters. It’s far.”
I was actually amused that the person considered this distance that is equal to half the length of an athletic field far. We told Yana we would just walk, and I’m glad we did.
We followed a dirt path that cut through the dense forests around it. The tall canopy provided us with shade from the sun, which by now was already quite high. We hadn’t seen the lake yet, but this walk turned out to be a lot more fun than we anticipated. “Why go to the botanic garden when we can get this?” James rhetorically asked. Everything around us looked very pristine and somewhat prehistoric, and then halfway to the lake a small shrine came into view. Dozens of canang sari filled with different flower petals were placed on and around the altar, a reminder that this place too has significance according to local beliefs.
A few minutes later we arrived at the southwestern end of Lake Tamblingan where Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan stood just a few meters away from the water. During the peak of rainy season, the water level can increase dramatically so much so the temple can appear as if it is floating. It’s unclear when this pura was built, but the overgrowth made it look older than what I believe it actually is. I went closer to the temple and realized that the plants sitting on top of the three gateways to the compound were in fact orchids. One even had flower stalks teeming with buds – had we come a few days or weeks later we would’ve probably seen them in full bloom.
A 10th-century copper inscription found in the area alludes to a Hindu temple on the other side of the lake, which gives a hint of the long history of the religion on the island. If it had reached this remote corner of Bali by then, the coastal areas must have been exposed to it much earlier. The Hinduism practiced on the island today, however, is significantly different from the one observed in India. While the latter puts a lot of emphasis on the iconography of Hindu deities, the former is more replete with symbolism, for instance.
Beyond the pura was the soothingly calm water of Lake Tamblingan which looked incredibly photogenic as thick clouds began rolling in from all directions, creating a beautiful and mysterious atmosphere. I had to remind myself that it was almost midday on a Sunday. Yet, this lake – the smallest of the three – felt a world away from Bali’s touristy spots. Big buses and large tour groups were nowhere to be found. There were just a few visitors enjoying a part of the island that is still spared from mass tourism. We left Lake Tamblingan feeling refreshed, while hoping that only those who really appreciate its natural state make the journey there.
There is something aesthetically pleasing about these overgrown gates
The tree-covered pathway to Lake Tamblingan
A prehistoric-looking forest
An interesting altar along the path
Can you see the butterflies?
The meru (towers with multi-tiered roofs) of Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan
The temple was closed when we came
Ornate wood carvings weathered by the elements
Wild orchids growing on the temple’s gates
A swarm of dragonflies flying over the temple compound – an indication of the good quality of nearby water sources
The towers and gateways at the highly atmospheric Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan
Lake Tamblingan was even more peaceful than Lake Buyan
A perfect place to rest one’s mind
This grassland is completely submerged when the water level is high
The showy flowers of Justicia carnea
Iresine herbstii, a plant native to Peru which has been introduced to many parts of the world
To the right is Lake Tamblingan, and to the left is Lake Buyan
What an Amazing World! 
Tranquil and absolute paradise! I know of Bali, but less so of Bedugal and its lakes, especially in the caldera. A very unique geography in this part of the world, and while I haven’t been to Indonesia, I might just come to check this out! Thanks for sharing, Bama 😊
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If you prefer cooler places, you would probably enjoy Bedugul, Rebecca. In my opinion, these highlands with those three lakes are among the most picturesque places on the island. I still remember how quiet and atmospheric they were, especially Lake Tamblingan.
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beautiful
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Indeed. It was very peaceful and magical as well.
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I can certianly inderstand why Bedugul is so popular, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is magical. And arriving first thing in the morning gives you perfect light. Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan isn’t quite as picturesque but it has its own charm. So nice to know there are still authentic places in Bali. Maggie
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It’s always a good idea to take photos early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the sun is low. And in tropical places you know how hot it can be at midday. Fortunately, there are still authentic places in Bali, but one just has to know where to look and when to go.
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This is the part of Bali that I’ve never been yet. Although I’ve been to Kintamani several times.
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You should see Bedugul for yourself, Edwin. Although I must warn you that Lake Beratan can feel a little too touristy if you come around the same time with most other tourists. Speaking of Kintamani, I actually have mixed feelings about it. But that’s another story.
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What an incredible post, Bama!
Most of people just ‘see’ a place and misses out experiencing it, in their travels.
Your post is a true guide to experience this stunning land, learn about the lives of its people, culture and everything around.
I am from Kerala, a small state in South India, in the tropics and its one of the most beautiful places in our country with a rich cultural heritage as well. I have been seeing people just flocking to the major tourism destinations and completely misses its interior regions and experience the life here.
Thank you so much for sharing and I am bookmarking this page as I prepare myself for my Bali experience.
Have a great time 🙂
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Thank you, Sreejith!
I would love to see Kerala again one day. When I went, the weather was not on my side. But I remember how fascinating Kathakali and the local dishes were.
I hope you’ll get to Bali soon. Enjoy your weekend!
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Great to see that you had been to Kerala already!
Kathakali is a great art form and at the same time, there is another ritualistic art form named Theyyam, only in Northern most Kerala and there are over 400 different Theyyams performed during the season time, from November to April.
Most of my family has already been to Bali in different tours but I am waiting. I need to plan at least a week there if not more 🙂
Through our blogs, we can be ambassadors of our places and promote sustainable travel ….
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Ahh, yes. I’ve heard and read about Theyyam, and would really love to see it one day. It looks magnificent!
I totally agree with what you say about how our blogs bring us closer despite our physical distances.
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I am from, Kannur, the land of Theyyam and next time, don’t think twice while planning a Kerala trip. I am here 🙂
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Wonderful to see a little of ‘unspoilt’ Bali, Bama. The images are breathtaking.
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Thank you, Jo. Some of the places mentioned in this post did feel unspoilt. Or maybe I was just lucky to be there at the right time when most other people went elsewhere on the island.
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Finding unspoilt is increasingly difficult these days, Bama, but you do a beautiful job.
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The better-than-expected weather certainly helped. We had to constantly check the weather forecast though.
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Now this is the Bali I would like to see! If i ever get to Bali please take me to these hidden gems! Lol
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You really remind me of the days (and weeks, even months) when I had to convince James that there are other sides of Bali that are not filled with drunk tourists. 😄 I surely would love to, Anna. Or if I can’t make it to Bali when you go there, at least I can give you recommendations. Just drop me an email.
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Hahaha i think myself and James had the same line of thinking! If i ever do go you will be the first to know mate! X
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Great piece.
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Thank you.
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I love the sight of the majestic Ulun Danu Temple and can easily see why many visitors to Bali travel across the world just to see it. I’ve seen many photos of it across social media and have always been in awe of the stunningly clear lake which is calm and almost perfectly still, except for the soft breeze that occasionally sweeps across, creating tiny ripples upon its surface. Add to the already magical scene a thin mist rising from the lake and hanging in the air, surrounding the temple, giving it a somewhat surreal appearance and you’ve got yourself a truly iconic place worth visiting. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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After my previous two visits where the skies were rather gloomy, I thought that getting a photo of Pura Ulun Danu Beratan on a clear day was almost impossible. But then two people I know who went to Bali on separate trips managed to get exactly that kind of shot. The key is to go there during the dry season. Thanks Aiva!
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🥰🥰🥰
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I hope Lake Tamblingan always remains too far for most tourists because finding quiet havens is important for our sanity. Thanks for sharing.
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I surely hope so. I have seen photos of this lake on Instagram, so I actually expected it to be quite popular. I was pleasantly surprised to find the place very peaceful when I went.
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What beautiful, tranquil and scenic photos and views, Bama!
It’s nice to learn about and to see a different part of Bali that we know less about over on this end.
Sometimes getting up earlier and visiting a place when it’s less crowded is worth it. The morning golden sun cast over Pura Ulun Danu Beratan was beautiful. I can see why you were mesmerized.
The frequent rain has also created such lush landscapes. Beautiful!
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I was so happy to find these lakes so peaceful and beautiful when I went. Places like these were exactly what I had in mind when I thought of going to Bali following my mom’s passing a few months earlier.
Although it’s always tempting to get up late, especially when you’re on a vacation, starting your day earlier does have its own benefits. Just make sure you get enough sleep though.
If you ever come to Bali, you should not miss these lakes, Ab!
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I’m glad the vacation also helped with your grieving journey too, Bama.
And if I ever do make it to Indonesia one day, you will be my tour guide! 😆😊
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Haha, I’ll try my best! 😁
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It’s interesting how every lake in Bali has its own temple. The lakes that you visited are beautiful. I’m such a fan of getting an early start to the day. The soft morning light and not having to deal with the crowds at Lake Beratan sounds lovely. And it’s great to hear that Lake Tamblingan wasn’t crazy busy either. It looks so peaceful.
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The Balinese have a special connection with everything provided by the nature, and this is beautifully interwoven in their beliefs. Unfortunately, mass tourism has, to some extent, eroded this. But luckily there are places on the island where traditions are still alive.
Getting up early does bring many advantages. On our way back from Lake Tamblingan, when we passed Lake Beratan, there were already a lot of cars and buses parked near the latter.
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Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan reminds me of Angkor: concealed in the jungle and covered in overgrowns. The orchids are nice surprises 🙂 Excellent photos of Lake Beratan and the temple, Bama! As you said, they glow under the soft morning light.
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I can see what you mean. Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan did feel very atmospheric when I went, although it’s not as old as the temples in Angkor. There’s something innately fascinating about places that somewhat blend with their environment.
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Takes me back to my visit to Pura Taman Ayun (I think!) that was similarly a cocoon of serenity.
The morning reflections photo is sublime!
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At first, I didn’t plan to visit Pura Taman Ayun when I went to Bali two months ago because I’ve been there twice. But in the end I did go for the third time, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of this trip. Like what you said, it was a cocoon of serenity indeed.
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What a beautiful place, and you did well to see the best of it without all the visitors crowding it. It’s a part of Bali that I’ve not seen, but you make it sound so idyllic. And your photos are gorgeous.
I’ve heard about Aussies getting drunk on Bali’s beaches. Australia has thousands of magnificent beaches. Why don’t they stay home and get drunk on their own beaches?!
Alison
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With a little bit of planning, it is possible to visit some of Bali’s most touristy places, like Lake Beratan, without the crowds. You know, for a long time I didn’t realize that were a lot of great beaches in Australia until you told me. And when you posted the photos you took from some of them, I thought to myself hey they look really nice!
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I love that you’re able to see these wonderful places without being bothered by tour buses. And it’s great you were able to hire a good driver too. Was it easy to find a driver?
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A fellow blogging friend from India just went to Bali, and she said the online reviews of Balinese drivers are generally good. I guess when the competition is tough, you need to make sure that your guests like you. But the Balinese are kind and gentle people anyway, so it’s just natural for them to treat other people well. And to answer your question, yes finding a driver on the island is very easy.
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I think, from your descriptions and photos that Lake Tamblingan would be my favourite, Bama. Especially as the walk to it appears to have been a highlight, which I can completely understand. Thank goodness one can, with some planning avoid the throngs of tourists. I am naturally inclined to visit places in the early morning hours, which has served me well throughout my life. I have often followed your approach of staying close to the places most people visit as a day trip, as it is imbued with a very different kind of energy when they leave.
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I think so, Jolandi. Lake Tamblingan was so peaceful and atmospheric. I too am a morning person, and sometimes even more so when I travel. I am secretly grateful that a lot of people get up late, so when I plan to visit places like Pura Ulun Danu Beratan early in the morning, I know I can enjoy the calm ambiance long enough before they arrive.
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After visiting all three of these lakes on our recent trip, I can see why Tamblingan is your favorite. It was so serene and the forest walk from the car park to the temple instantly made me feel at ease. I echo Mallee’s hope that it will continue to remain off the beaten track, and too much of an effort for most people who come on a half-day or less from the south. I couldn’t believe how many tour buses we encountered on the road after leaving Pura Ulun Danu Beratan at that early hour!
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Some places are indeed better to stay a little too far for most people to conveniently visit. I can’t imagine Lake Tamblingan being swarmed by a lot of tourists! I hope that will never happen.
Ah yes, those tour buses we saw, and the queue in front of that gate to a golf course nearby!
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These lakes and the multi-roofed temples and pavilions look fantastic. I didn’t know Bali had 3 lakes – interestingly Bali is a bit bigger than the island nation Trinidad I grew up on, but Trinidad doesn’t have any huge bodies of water at all. You are right that if more people were to visit, it would lose some of its charm and attractiveness.
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Actually Bali has four lakes. The other one, which is also the biggest, is for another story since it’s located further to the east, away from the other three. Speaking of Trinidad, what do you remember most of its natural landscape when you were still living there?
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Four is even more impressive.
I actually visited Trinidad last year, and I did go to a few scenic places like hills and forest. Trinidad is very hilly and green, though they are not very high, but when I was young and living there, I didn’t appreciate hills much. It’s only afterwards that I realized how fortunate I was to see scenic hills almost everyday on the way to school. There are many nice beaches and then there is a well-known swamp where people go to see the national bird, scarlet ibis.
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Here’s a post I wrote about Trinidad during the early stages of the pandemic.
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It’s funny how we often take things for granted when we were little. In the small town where I spent my childhood years, an extinct volcano could be seen from parts of the city. But I didn’t appreciate that. It was only a few years ago when I looked up our old house on Google Street View did I realize how clear that mountain actually is from where we used to live! Trinidad looks so lush, and it’s nice that they keep the old British buildings. I remember you brought this up in one of your posts, but I’m really sorry that you lost your father in a place where you grew up. A place that is supposed to be filled with many sweet memories.
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Yes, exactly, it’s easy to take things for granted when one is young and saw nice scenery everyday. Trinidad is indeed quite green – it’s slightly smaller than Bali but its population is only 1.4 million. There is a lot of tourism potential in Trinidad, but having some oil wealth meant there wasn’t that big a need to build up the tourist industry, and the violent crime means it’s not that safe to visit.
I’ll always appreciate growing up there but it’s hard to advocate for it now given what happened to my father.
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