The views of Mount Agung (right) and Mount Abang from our room
Imagine waking up to a view of fiery skies with silhouettes of volcanic peaks. And when the sun has risen higher on the eastern horizon, its soft rays cast a gentle warmth that brings the forests and rice terraces on nearby hills to life. The air is cool and fresh. The crowing of roosters in the distance and the chirps of different birds animate what was not long ago a darkened and quiet highland blanketed by thick fog.
This was exactly what I experienced a few days ago when I stayed in Bedugul, away from the beaches most people who come to Bali are after. There was a period of time when I went to this island very often, sometimes even more than once in a year. However, my last vacation in the most famous holiday destination in the entire Indonesian archipelago happened in early 2015, and since then, other places both near and far have kept me from returning.
In late 2022, I finally set foot on the island again, although this time for work. While I was grateful for the opportunity, that trip made me realize that there is a big difference between going there with responsibilities on your shoulders and visiting it to escape your daily grind. I was determined to properly say hello to Bali again one day without having to bring the stress of work. Then, this February my mom suddenly passed away, a great loss I am still processing until now. Dealing with the grief made me dream of a tranquil place where I could take a deep breath and calm my incessantly busy mind. And naturally, this very island popped into my head.
And what a great decision going there truly was.
Bali has always been popular. But throughout the years, it seems like there is a growing number of cases that make me ponder the negative impacts of mass tourism on the island. Foreign tourists renting a motorbike and plunging it into a swimming pool in their villa (and for some strange reason proudly posting a video of it on social media); holidaymakers starting their own yoga classes focusing more on sensual pleasures, insensitive to local cultural values; the increasingly congested roads in touristy areas; and rampant property developments that often come at the cost of Bali’s natural beauty; the list is indeed getting long. In a few places, the locals unfortunately see visiting tourists – both Indonesians and foreigners – as prey with pockets of cash to be emptied. Also, the lack of adequate garbage collection in some parts of the island means plastic waste has become increasingly concerning.
However, if you know where to look (the island is bigger than what most people think), and if you go further away from the crowds, Bali will instantly reveal its legendary charms that make this place unlike any other on earth. This was exactly what I had in mind. James and I decided to stay in the highlands not only due to its greater distance from the overcrowded and overdeveloped south, but also because of its proximity to three of Bali’s four volcanic lakes. There was nothing fancy with our accommodation, but the rather rustic place afforded us a view that was a world away from the skyscrapers of Jakarta. On our first morning, we went straight to nearby Lake Beratan with the iconic Pura Ulun Danu Beratan seemingly floating in the calm water. It was very refreshing and peaceful to see this Hindu temple that is often featured in Indonesia’s tourism campaigns abroad up close, with only a handful of other tourists in sight, and in good weather too – a first for me, as in my previous two visits here it was either cloudy or rainy.
Fair weather fortunately was the norm during our four-night stay. The sun really helped bring out the colors of Balinese temples, each ornately decorated with intricate woodwork and stone carvings, as well as family shrines found at many houses all over the island. But the beauty of Bali not only lies in what the locals built. It is also present in quotidian life: the ubiquitous daily offerings called canang sari filled with fragrant and vibrant flowers, and the elaborate processions accompanying a multitude of Hindu rituals, among many others. I went to the island just with the thought of experiencing its charms again as a part of my own journey to heal my soul, but I came back with stories that I can’t wait to share with you in the coming months. One thing’s for sure: despite its popularity, I am happy to tell you that Bali still is a good idea.
Morning breaks in the highlands of Bali
Visiting the iconic Pura Ulun Danu Beratan with just a few other visitors in sight
The tall and prehistoric-looking trees at Sangeh Monkey Forest
Pura Taman Ayun, the elegant royal temple of the kingdom of Mengwi
A paduraksa gate at Pura Kehen, the former royal temple of the kingdom of Bangli
The ubiquitous canang sari, a daily offering found throughout the island
The canang sari of our rented car, which perfumed us with its pleasant natural fragrance
Family shrines like these are present in many Balinese houses
An intricate doorway at the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) in Ubud
This is just a fragment of a much larger painting by I Wayan Mardiana, depicting the exuberant living traditions of Bali
No corner at the museum has been left unadorned
In Bali, art is an intrinsic part of the culture
I had this bebek betutu (smoked duck in Balinese spices) for the first time more than a decade ago. When I returned to the same place, I was happy to find that the duck was bigger and more succulent than I remembered
What an Amazing World! 
My preference also for the mountains like Ubud. But even then I heard that place is getting crowded from over tourism.
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I first went to Ubud more than 10 years ago and I immediately fell in love with it. But then in my recent trip when we drove past this part of Bali I noticed that the traffic was getting worse. However, I would still recommend Ubud as a base to explore the island due to its location at the heart of Bali.
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You make a great case to return to Bali. When we visited last time it was a quick stop before climbing Carstensz Pyramid. We visited some of the temples, but really didn’t get to see too much of the island. I’m afraid your picture of Pura Ulun Danu Beratan will inspire hundreds of tourists to flock to see its peaceful setting. I hope the trip brought you some peace Bama. Maggie
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Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is already very popular anyway, but a lot of visitors come around midday since it’s located further away from where most hotels are. That’s one of the reasons why we stayed just 5 km from it so we could get there early. I hope you’ll return one day and see more of the island, Maggie.
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No one could have explained it better—I’m referring to your paragraph “Bali has always been popular.” Reading it, the old disappointment I felt when I returned to the island after more than a decade resurfaced. I can only hope the pristine north remains, but I’m skeptical.
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There was a plan to build a second airport in the north which I’m afraid will turn it into what the south has become. Fortunately, it has been put on hold indefinitely. More and more Balinese have been voicing out their concerns about the island’s rampant commercialization on their social media. I hope things will get better eventually.
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That would be disastrous. Let’s hope the government listens to the citizens.
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This seems wonderful. Still, Bali seems so crowded that I wonder whether it will disappoint.
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If you do plan to visit, my suggestion is to avoid peak seasons and go further inland away from the big hotels, resorts, and nightclubs.
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I’ve yet to visit Bali: however, I’ve also heard about the overtourism and the damage it’s doing to the environment, which makes me hesitant to go…perhaps some day, and yet there’s no denying that it’s still such a natural beauty! Thanks for sharing your return to Bali, Bama!
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What you heard is true, unfortunately. But these problems are more prevalent in the most touristy parts of the island — mostly in the south. However, when you know where to look, you can still find some charming corners of Bali, the very reason why it is such a unique place.
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Not sure who Jo is, but thanks for the response!
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OMG, I replied to the wrong comment! I guess my mind is still in Bali. I’ve revised my reply to you, Rebecca. Sorry for that.
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You make it look irresistible, Bama.
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Bali is such a beautiful and complex place, Jo. Due to its popularity, it requires a little bit of planning to truly enjoy the island though.
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I am at Bali now and loving the place.
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Great to hear that! Enjoy the rest of your stay.
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This is the only Bali I would be interested in seeing – I don’t think I could handle the throngs of Australians in the main tourist places!
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Given the sheer number of Australians visiting Bali, I was actually surprised not to see any of them during this recent trip. I guess most of your countrymen flocked to the beaches in the south.
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Yes the “typical” Aussie visitor goes to the beaches and where there is cheap drink. Not my scene at all. When I am at the airport waiting for flights I am horrified as to what comes off the plane from Bali – underdressed, barefoot, bikinis. lol. It’s gross. Australians have really turned me off Bali, but your post has given me some hope that I could still go and enjoy myself. X
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Ha! I also observed how a lot of Aussies arriving at the airport in Bali were already in their beach attires.
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You have a beautiful way of writing a scene into life. I could picture and hear that awesome sunrise!
It’s wonderful that you can visit this heavenly place so close to you and that you are savy enough to go away from the touristy areas and spend time in the off the beaten path places. The photos are lovely!
It really is a shame how tourists can ruin things and it’s often amplified by social media. The things people do for views!
On a more upbeat note, that duck looks so delicious!
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Thanks Ab! Those views were a real luxury for me. Just a day after I returned to Jakarta, the city’s air pollution level was at its worst in months. It makes me really miss Bali.
I had to be strategic with the timing and which places to visit in order to avoid the crowds as much as I could. Sometimes it wasn’t easy, but it’s completely plausible. You won’t believe what some tourists would do just for the sake of creating contents for their social media.
Oh I think you would enjoy that duck dish, Ab. It was very aromatic and delicious.
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Air pollution seems to be getting worse as are other environmental issues. We gotta enjoy and take care of the planet while we all can!
The duck would be delicious right about now!
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If you remember, not long ago in the past places like Beijing topped the list of the most polluted cities on the planet. But the local government there seem to have done something right in lowering the air pollution, which cities like Jakarta can definitely learn from.
If you ever find an Indonesian restaurant and see bebek betutu on the menu, you should order it!
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I’ve visited Bali many times when I was still living in Indonesia and yes, it’s getting worse, and run over by tourists and it’s getting harder and harder to find places that are still relatively quiet and far from the circuses, but there’s always a special vibe about Bali, something that makes it different than other places in the world.
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I’ve been to Bali both at peak and low seasons, and what a difference the timing makes! I don’t remember the last time I went to places like Kuta and Seminyak. I even have never been to Canggu, argually the hippest place on the island at the moment. This recent trip convinced me that there are indeed still parts of Bali that are magical.
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It’s really nice explanation the pictures which you posted it’s really wonderful when I am waiting them I’m feeling I’m in bali actually I been there before just a vacation on 2006 . I enjoyed so much i ca imagine still.thank you reminded me again,🙏
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I’m glad this post reminded you of your trip to this island. I can imagine how much more pristine it was when you went almost two decades ago.
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Fabulous captures. It’s always nice to get away from the crowds. Good call on staying in the highlands. The scenery looks stunning. Even the views from your room are beautiful!
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Thanks Linda. Although getting everywhere took more time, staying in the highlands did come with its perks. You just need to budget a little bit more time if you wish to explore other parts of the island.
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So colorful and enchanting. We have read that Bali is getting overly touristy, another reason to go in off season and visit the interior like you did. The duck looks delicious. Which area would be good to be based out of?
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I would recommend staying in Ubud. Although it is now a lot busier than how it was more than a decade ago when I first went, its central location makes it a convenient base to explore the island. There is a great variety of dining options too, and it has some nice art museums as well. If you need more help with the planning, feel free to drop me an email.
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Thank you!
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I remember disliking Bali with its mass tourism and the lack of authenticity that is inevitable. But note to self: I should visit Bedugul. For that matter, the next time I am in Indonesia, methinks I will have to request you for a list of un-touristed places for me to visit. Pretty please? With a cherry on top!
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Bedugul itself has its own highly-commercialized side, which I didn’t even bother to visit. But as you can see (and will see in my future post on this corner of Bali), it has another side which is peaceful and pristine, even on a weekend! This is the case with many parts of the island, although in general the north is a lot less touristy than the overcrowded south. The next time you visit this part of the world, feel free to drop me an email, Ani.
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Ah Bama, I can feel a sense of peace entering you through your words and your beautiful photos. And what wonderful memories this brought back. So beautiful.
Sorry for your loss. I hope this break helped heal your soul. I know it took a while to process and come to peace with the death of my mum, so I’m not surprised to hear it’s the same for you.
Alison
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From the location of our accommodation to the good weather throughout our stay, this turned out to be better than what I had anticipated. Glad this post reminded you of your own trip to Bali, Alison. It still is a magical place, fortunately.
In a way it’s encouraging to know that it also took a while for you to deal with your loss. Not a lot of people at my age can relate to what I’m experiencing, so the journey to healing can feel a bit lonely sometimes.
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These – pagodas, volcanoes in the mist – is the sort of vibe my mind conjures when I think of Bali. I hope the visit helped you with your recovery, Bama.
This August is going to be the 10th year’s anniversary of my mother’s passing. She’d be 72 now. I can’t say the hurt ever goes away, but I think my memory of her have grown mellower. Last night I dreamt of her, of one of the stupid inside jokes we had, and it made me smile.
Give it time.
Fabrizio
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Thank you for sharing your own experience dealing with your loss. It shows how much you cared about her. This will always be a reminder for me that it is okay to still feel the pain even long after my mom’s passing. I often dream about her too, and most of the dreams were rather bittersweet.
This may sound cliché, but Bali really did its magic on me. Although not in a way how most people who go to the island these days show on their social media.
Really appreciate your thoughts, Fabrizio.
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Anytime, Bama! Keep well 🙂
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I have never been to Bali yet have always wanted to go. Sounds like you can still find peace and beauty there away from the tourists. I hope to someday make it over to your part of the world. I imagine there are so many beautiful places and perhaps some lesser known , off the beaten path jewels. Beautiful post as always!
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There are indeed parts of Bali that are fortunately spared from mass tourism. However, I must say some of the most popular cultural sights on the island are still worth visiting despite the crowds — although there is a way to beat them. I hope you’ll get to visit Bali and other islands in Indonesia one day, Nicole!
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A friend of mine has been to Bali a few times and avoids the tourist / party scene. I’m glad there’s still places to discover and historical treasures plus good food. (there’s always some mention of food in your blog). I’ll have to add this to my list.
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Your friend made a good call! Like it or not, Bali does have something for everyone — partygoers, artists looking for inspirations, divers, mountain climbers, you name it. You just need to know the places that suit you. I love duck, and that bebek betutu is undoubtedly among the most satisfying duck dishes I’ve had.
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After your pre-trip checks on the weather forecast for Bali, I’ll admit I was a bit worried we’d find the caldera lakes covered in mist or with the skies completely clouded over. But thankfully the conditions at Pura Ulun Danu Beratan were just as picture-perfect as they were on my previous visit in 2022. Waking up before dawn to beat the tour bus crowds that day was truly worth it. In hindsight, our time in Bali was full of serendipitious occurrences: from getting Bli Yana as our driver, that short amble through the forest on the shores of Lake Tamblingan, and the spontaneous visit to Pura Taman Ayun, to our indulgent meal of smoked duck at Bebek Joni on the very last day. I look forward to going back to Bali with you sometime to explore even more of that captivating island.
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Me too. I had to lower my expectations after checking the weather forecast. So you can imagine how ecstatic I was the morning we went to Lake Beratan with blue skies above us. Third time’s a charm! This Bali trip really turned out to be more fulfilling than what I had anticipated, although it could’ve been better had our experience at Pura Ulun Danu Batur been more pleasant. I will definitely mention about it in my future post on Kintamani. The next time we go to Bali, now we know who to contact to take us around the island.
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It’s good to know that Bali is still a good idea, Bama, and that you could get back there to find the peace, tranquility and spirit of the place you longed for. The first photo and opening paragraph drew me in immediately, and I actually went back to it once I finished reading the post. What you evoke is what I imagine to find when visiting a magical place like Bali. Interestingly enough, it is never the beaches I search out, but the mountains. I remember many years ago when I visited Koh Samui that, although I visited a couple of beaches on my scooter drives around the island, it was the walks in the mountains, where life wasn’t skewed towards tourism that I enjoyed the most. I am looking forward to all the upcoming posts, to see the enchantments of Bali through your eyes.
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You know, after this trip I really can’t wait to go back to explore more of the island — not the south, obviously. Every time people ask me which I prefer, the mountain or the beach, I usually say I like both. But in retrospect, I think deep down I actually enjoy being in cooler places surrounded by lush forests with views of mountain peaks better. Your scooter rides in Koh Samui sound like a bliss!
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