Kaohsiung’s Artistic Trio

by Bama
June 7, 2024
36 comments
Asia, East, Taiwan

The undulating roof of the National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts, also known as Weiwuying

One of the things true global cities have in common is the presence of world-class cultural institutions where people from different corners of the globe converge to share their stories and ideas, discuss important issues, and collaborate on various works, among other things. This, undoubtedly, benefits the locals, for they don’t need to travel far to meet some of the planet’s greatest talents. Cities like New York, London, Paris, and Tokyo have well-established arts and cultural centers that similar institutions in other countries look up to and aspire to be. Meanwhile, places like Abu Dhabi and Doha, where funding is often not an issue, have also recently caught up as they inaugurated grand and shiny museums most cities can only dream of. Others, like Bilbao, commissioned international architects to design something their residents could have never imagined before, even in their wildest dreams.

Kaohsiung seems be following what the northern Spanish city has successfully done with their Guggenheim Museum. Designed by Dutch architect Francine Houben of Mecanoo, the National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts, also known as Weiwuying, opened in 2018. Situated in the east of the southern Taiwanese city, the massive structure hosts an opera house, a concert hall, a playhouse, and a recital hall – all under one undulating roof – as well as an outdoor theater. Weiwuying’s forward-looking ultra-modern architecture also nods to its past, as local shipbuilders were involved during its construction to make the superstructure and the curving steel plates using the same technique for making ocean liners. This is an homage to the city’s roots as Taiwan’s hub for shipbuilding, an important industry which sustained the country’s rapid economic growth in the 1980s and 1990s, and also showed locals that this expensive project was built with them in mind.

An MRT station is conveniently located right at the northern entrance of Weiwuying, allowing the general public to access this 3.3-hectare arts center without having to rely on their cars. When we were at the station, a large poster emblazoned with photos of upcoming performers from different countries was hard to miss. Among them was Joey Alexander, a young Indonesian jazz pianist who is also a three-time Grammy nominee. However, that day was relatively quiet with no performances at any of the halls. We circumambulated the entire structure and walked through its cavernous Banyan Plaza – the space that connects the individual venues – and saw someone showing off his skills with the piano provided at one corner of the compound. (On a second visit a few hours later, we spotted a group of people singing around the same piano with an undeniably infectious positive energy, although the vocals were a bit off-key.)

We went inside and walked through an interactive gallery, showcasing the arts center’s history and features, on a sloping corridor to the main visitors’ hall. Enclosed within the structures are a café, a children’s playground, and an open-air chamber with stone-shaped seats for those who wish to briefly escape the air-conditioned interior – such a space in Indonesia would have been filled with people who smoke. After lingering for quite some time, we headed toward the exit, through a branch of Taiwan’s most popular bookstore whose aesthetically-pleasing interior design exuded calm and peace.

Designed by Dutch architecture firm Mecanoo, this was opened to the public in 2018

Kaohsiung’s prime performing arts center

The outdoor theater with 85 Sky Tower looming in the background

The cavernous Banyan Plaza

A nice place to escape the midday heat

Under the curves

Locals and visitors strolling around the plaza

A person playing the piano with a handful of spectators

The same spot a few hours later: the singing was not necessarily great, but the energy certainly was

Inside Weiwuying, there is this small chamber for people to get some fresh air

This corridor must be very packed during major performances

Learning about Weiwuying in an interactive way

Weiwuying’s outdoor theater as viewed from the large park behind it

On the same MRT line, the train took us further east to our next destination. The Dadong Arts Center is smaller in size, but its architecture is equally intriguing. Completed in 2012, the compound consists of four major parts: a theater, an exhibition hall, an art library, and an education center. The open space between those buildings is covered with a contiguous membrane roof which provides protection from Kaohsiung’s hot climate and periodic torrential downpours. The public area was mostly deserted when we came – it was a workday – but I can imagine in the afternoon and on weekends it must be brimming with activities.

What I found most intriguing about the architecture was the wide holes in the roof that appeared as if they were inverted volcanoes. On a rainy day, these actually help collect the water, while on a particularly hot day, they allow warm air to rise which then generates a fresh draft to cool down the spaces below. When architecture not only serves a purpose of making a great impression, but also benefits the local community who will most likely use the building more than any other people, you know that it’s a job well done.

While both Weiwuying and the Dadong Arts Center have certainly helped to propel Kaohsiung as an emerging cultural destination in the region, for the city to truly flourish as a cultural hub it needs more than just big arts centers. Fortunately, smaller community-focused as well as privately-funded institutions have been opening up, including the Neiwei Arts Center. Across town at the southeastern foot of Ape Hill, a former military hostel which was built in 1967 as a transit point for Taiwanese soldiers going to the frontlines at Kinmen and the Matsu Islands – both are located just a stone’s throw away from mainland China – was purchased by its current owner in 2016. Two years later, it opened as Alien Art Centre. Don’t expect to see specimens of extra-terrestrial creatures here, though. The name was in fact inspired by Alian/Alien, a rural district of Kaohsiung where the owner grew up.

The Dadong Arts Center as viewed from the entrance to the nearby MRT station right across the street

Circles and diamonds

Inverted volcanoes

Beneath each hole is either a pool, a seating area, or a raised platform

A family of three making the most of the quiet space

Some prefer to read books

A great community center from which other cities can learn a thing or two

The entrance to the MRT station is visible from this angle

But before we went there, we took a detour a few blocks away to sample a uniquely local breakfast dish. Milkfish (Chanos chanos) is a species of saltwater fish that lives near the coast as well as in the brackish water of estuaries. Popular in maritime Southeast Asia, especially in Indonesia and the Philippines, it has also been cultivated in southern Taiwan for three centuries. In places like Kaohsiung and Tainan, the fish is very much loved by the locals who cook it in different ways. While I’ve sampled both fried and grilled milkfish, I’ve never had it in a rice congee, and that’s exactly what we were after. Run by grannies, this hole in the wall also served other dishes, including steamed milkfish with sliced pineapple and fried milkfish intestines; all came with julienned ginger. The innards were surprisingly tasty, and they complemented the soft texture of the meat really well.

With full stomachs, off we went to Alien Art Centre. Had there not been greenery in its front yard, the gray brutalist architecture would have looked even colder on this particularly cloudy morning. But behind its gloomy façade were art installations that were not only thought-provoking, but also awe-inspiring – and a bit outlandish at times. First, we went inside a darkened room where we sat on a raised platform in front of a dimly-lit long glass tube. The chamber was filled with the ambient sounds of Kaohsiung Harbor, and beneath us the minute vibrations echoed the boat journeys the soldiers took to the frontlines. Occasionally, an illuminated water droplet glided through the tube, representing a soldier leaving the harbor. Crossing, as the artwork is called, evoked a profound sense of contemplative melancholy.

The successive galleries displayed equally arresting pieces of art. James Turrell’s Corinth Canal, The Diamond teased every visitor to sit in front of a diamond on the wall with slowly changing hypnotic colors. Chou Shu-Yi’s Last Words which was presented in different forms all at once (a video, a static installation, and a light-and-shadow presentation) was very poignant, for it questioned what tangible and intangible things humans can leave behind. Meanwhile, Jiro Kamata’s artworks challenged the notion that jewelry must only be procured through extraction. Using old camera lenses, he crafted new objects that are pleasing to the eye.

We spent almost 1.5 hours exploring this arts center, one of many that have been springing up in Kaohsiung in recent years. If the city can maintain this momentum and stay on its positive trajectory, we should expect to see an urban area filled with world-class cultural presentations, big and small, taking over derelict remnants of the city’s industrial past. Everyone will be watching closely.

Rice congee with milkfish, milkfish and pineapple, and milkfish intestines (not shown here)

The entrance to Alien Art Centre

The long, cold corridor of the former military hostel

Excerpts from the veterans, Crossing

A video to prepare visitors to see James Turrell’s whimsical artwork

James Turrell’s Corinth Canal, The Diamond

This must have been fun and therapeutic to make

Chou Shu-Yi’s Last Words

Go up for more artwork

A 2019 creation by the arts center’s owner himself

Three years later, he made this painting

Jiro Kamata’s artwork, made from used camera lenses

The restaurant inside the arts center

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Based in Jakarta, always curious about the world, always fascinated by ancient temples, easily pleased by food.

36 thoughts on “Kaohsiung’s Artistic Trio”

    • Bama says:

      Hi Hendrik. Thank you untuk tawarannya yang menarik banget. Tapi sepertinya untuk saat ini belum memungkinkan.

      Like

  3. ourcrossings says:

    Wow, such a beautiful building, Bama – I am in awe and could walk around gawking at it for hours! I love how its wide crown, providing shelter against the sun and rain, is a perfect expression of Kaohsiung’s humid atmosphere. When you get a chance, look up one of the most interesting libraries in the Netherlands – the Netherlands’ LocHal Public Library, which won Mecanoo the prestigious World Building of the Year prize in 2019 for its repurposing of an old railway storage shed into a community library. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva x

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I read in an article that even the artistic director of Weiwuying couldn’t believe his eyes when he saw the arts center, as nothing at this scale had ever been built in Taiwan. I just looked up LocHal Public Library and immediately loved what I saw. I always like adaptive reuse projects, but this one does seem special. Thanks for bringing this up, Aiva!

      Liked by 1 person

      • ourcrossings says:

        I am glad you like it, Bama. While I usually favour buildings with fluid shapes, I have a soft spot for industrial-style buildings with lots of glass, black steel columns and concrete floors.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Bama says:

        Such structures do have their own charm. And when done sensibly, the restoration of an industrial building can make it look very appealing.

        Liked by 1 person

  4. Len Kagami says:

    I have to note down these buildings, Bama! They look awesome, especially the Weiwuying. It reminds me of the National Theater of Taichung which features curves and cavernous halls. Perhaps, the Taiwanese are open-minded so they prefer structures without an established shape 🙂 The inverted volcanoes are also interesting. I found them to resemble the lower part of the hot air balloons. And they have the same function of sucking in warm air.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I just googled that opera house in Taichung and I can understand why parts of Weiwuying remind you of it. Recently, Taipei has also inaugurated its own Performing Arts Center and the architecture looks equally arresting. That’s definitely something to check out the next time you’re in the Taiwanese capital! I haven’t been, but it looks stunning. You’re right about the resemblance between the roofs at the Dadong Arts Center and hot air balloons!

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    • Bama says:

      It seems like every major city in Taiwan now has at least one arts center with bold modern architecture. Hope you’ll get to see them one day, Suzanne!

      Like

  7. Rebecca says:

    I don’t usually go to museums on my travels, as I tend to focus on the streets, architecture, and food aspects of a city. However, I make exceptions for world-renown museums, or niche ones that catch my interest. The Alien Art Centre especially caught my eye: the exhibits look experimental and otherworldly, and should I ever visit Kaohsiung (a city in Taiwan I’ve yet to see), I’ll have to make time to check it out during my stay. Thanks for sharing, Bama!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      If you like experimental and thought-provoking artworks, you definitely have to check out Alien Art Centre, Rebecca. Fortunately, Crossing is a permanent exhibit, and it’s a good and poignant way to start your exploration of this place.

      Liked by 1 person

  8. Ab says:

    I loved this tour, Bama. Great cities indeed invest in cultural centres that bring arts, music, connection to its community and helps establish tourism as well.

    The Dutch are innovative in their architecture and I love how the design brings so much beauty while also serving pragmatic purposes such as environmental sustainability through the green roof and the volcano holes that collect rainwater. How cool.

    And milkfish is indeed a Filipino staple. We call it “Bangus” and I like it grilled or roasted and served with a nice heap of warm garlic rice.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      Major Canadian cities must have such great centers for the arts too, I believe. It’s great to see this trend in Asia because, as you know, the continent is so diverse with so many different cultural offerings to showcase.

      The Dutch have always been known for their pragmatic approach to architecture. Although it is indeed nice that they also put emphasis on the aesthetics of a building, not just the function.

      I remember having fried bangus with white rice at Jollibee when I went to Manila in 2011! 😆 The fish cut was actually quite big.

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  9. WanderingCanadians says:

    These are such neat buildings. I especially like the inverted volcanoes at the Dadong Arts Center. It’s cool to learn that they serve a practical purpose too. I couldn’t help but laugh at the small chamber that people can go in to get some fresh air though. 

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      Just like the transformation of the city itself, these buildings truly were impressive. It’s a bold endeavor to show the world that Kaohsiung has changed for the better. That small chamber was quite unexpected, to be honest.

      Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I guess one of the reasons why I’m always drawn to places like these is the fact that there hasn’t been any cultural center at such scale in Indonesia yet. I like to daydream where in Jakarta such institution would be and how it would look.

      Liked by 1 person

  11. iftravels says:

    Thanks for the tour, from a fellow addict of museums and galleries. The architecture looks weirdly similar to the train station of Jeddah. Truly. 🤣

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I had to google the Jeddah train station, and I guess it’s the cavernous spaces beneath its roofs that made you think of it when you saw the photos in this post. How has your trip to Africa been so far? I hope you’ll get to see the places you want to see the most.

      Liked by 1 person

      • iftravels says:

        Was hanging out with the four legged animals in Etosha NP. Heading to Angola tomorrow. Not at all sure of it but 🤞

        Liked by 1 person

  12. NocturnalTwins says:

    Oh this is beautiful and thank you for the lovely pictures. I’ve bookmarked both your blog and James’s, there are so many tips here for places to see, eat and explore.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      Much appreciated, Matt. I’m glad our blogs gave you some ideas of places to see in the future. And when it comes to eating, you’ve probably have figured out by now how much we love trying new dishes when we travel.

      Liked by 1 person

  13. James says:

    The dramatic canvas roofs over the courtyards at Dadong Arts Center make so much sense for a place as hot and humid as Kaohsiung. When I visited Weiwuying during that hectic work trip in March last year, I knew I needed to come back with you sooner or later. I really wish someone here in Indonesia had the foresight to commission a world-class cultural center of that scale and quality. Jakarta truly lacks these kinds of creative community spaces — that problem feels all the more acute whenever we return from cities like Kaohsiung and Hong Kong.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I believe that ‘good’ architecture always makes sense. A building that looks nice in a high latitude country, for example, may have the exact opposite effect if it’s built in tropical places. I agree with you about the lack of cultural centers of such caliber in Jakarta. I admit I always feel envious of cities like Hong Kong and Kaohsiung for exactly the same reason. As you know, there was this really cool design of a new concert hall somewhere in South/West Jakarta, but it has since been scaled down.

      Liked by 1 person

  14. Monkey's Tale says:

    I thought I commented on this post last week, but it was from free wifi at an airport, so maybe I was cut off before I sent it. Anyway, these buildings are quite remarkable and not what I would expect from Taiwan. I especially like the Art Centre with its inverted volcanoes. How clever is that! Maggie

    Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      No worries, Maggie! Sorry for the delayed response as I’m currently staying in a rather rustic guesthouse deep in Bali’s highlands. Everyone seems to be really intrigued by the architecture of the Dadong Arts Center, which is understandable because it also caught my attention when I watched a video about the transformation of Kaohsiung quite a while ago.

      Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I wish we were. But on this trip we’re more focused on visiting all of Bali’s volcanic lakes and the cultural sights around them. Wow! How nice that you’re going to Raja Ampat. I’ve never been, but what I heard is it’s a good idea to stay for a few days on a liveaboard that will take you to different spots.

      Liked by 1 person

    • Bama says:

      I’ll take a break from writing about Kaohsiung, Jolandi. My next post on Taiwan will probably be focusing on Tainan. But then I still have a few posts from Cambodia that I haven’t published, in addition to those on Bali, Hong Kong, and Vietnam. So many places! 🙂

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