The view of Hong Kong’s iconic skyline on a beautiful morning from the East Coast Park Precinct
Four years of not returning to a place is a long time for someone who used to go there almost every year. That is how I felt about Hong Kong, a fascinating city which was at a crossroads during my last visit before the pandemic. In December 2019, the unprecedented large-scale protests that rocked the financial hub earlier that year were still fresh in memory. Graffiti on the streets, walls, and signs all over the city still bore residents’ dissatisfaction toward the Hong Kong government, initially triggered by an unpopular extradition bill that was due for hearing at the Legislative Council (better known as the LegCo) – the territory’s parliament.
However, the Covid-19 pandemic that shut down the world caused the protests to abate. Although the bill was eventually withdrawn, local pro-democracy civil society groups were reasonably worried about the future of their city, a place long known not only for its business-friendly environment, but also for its freedoms, amid Beijing’s increasing grip onto the territory. When the pandemic was still raging, the so-called National Security Law was introduced, a nail in the coffin of the Hong Kong its residents knew. In 2002, the territory ranked 18th in the annual global press freedom list published by Reporters Without Borders. In 2022, it was 148th.
In the past, District Council elections were usually a low-key event with a turnout of only around 30–40%, but these were largely fair and free. But in November 2019, more than 70% of Hong Kong residents decided to cast their ballots in these elections, a largely symbolic gesture as the elected district councilors’ power was limited to domestic issues in their constituencies, like garbage collection and the upkeep of public facilities. Unsurprisingly, more than 80% of the seats were won by the pro-democracy camp, a result that painted the general sentiment and hope of the residents for the future of their beloved yet troubled hometown.
I kept wondering how much Hong Kong has changed since my last visit, especially after all those protests, the government’s heavy-handed reactions to them, and the increasing number of people leaving this city for good, among other developments. In December 2023, I was finally able to return to this city which I enjoyed so much for more reasons than one. Cool and crisp air was the first thing that welcomed me, followed by an efficient process at immigration – just like how I remembered. Once James and I collected our suitcases, we took the Airport Express train, which was celebrating 25 years of service and remains a fast and comfortable way to get into town. At James’ parents’ house, their friendly black Lab called Tasha was still as energetic as ever even though she was already 11 – equivalent to humans in their 60s.
As James and I walked the streets of Hong Kong on the following days, the clicking sound of the hearing aid at pedestrian crossings remained the same – it immediately blasted a fast rhythmic tune when the traffic light turned red, as if urging people to walk even faster. At local eateries and cha chaan teng (Hong Kong-style diners), the service provided by the waiters/waitresses was just as brisk and rough as I remembered. It was shocking at first (because such an attitude would be considered rude in many parts of Indonesia), but it’s logical in a place like Hong Kong where space is limited and rent is high – you have to serve a lot of customers to be able to turn a profit, and to achieve that you have to do things very efficiently.
Turn your head to the right and you will get a view of Kowloon’s skyscrapers
This vent shaft has become something of a landmark of the precinct
Walking along the breakwater
A tiny boat surrounded by man-made megastructures
Mirror, mirror on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all?
Traditional bamboo scaffolding; the bamboo-inspired façade of M+
Life on this street is not necessarily more mercurial than in other parts of the city
Go see your butcher for the freshest cuts of the day
Exploring Hong Kong on foot reminded me of one of the reasons I fell in love with this city. Office towers, malls, MTR (metro) and bus stations, and many other buildings, especially in the city center, are well-connected to one another, thanks to an intricate network of pedestrian bridges and outdoor escalators that weave through those structures. And speaking of the MTR itself, it has for many years been ranked among the most efficient in the world, and it keeps expanding.
So far, everything still felt the same as in my previous trip four years earlier, as if nothing had really changed. However, at some major MTR stations as well as large billboards placed at strategic locations, something new caught my attention. People in cartoon characters spotting “suspicious” individuals: a pizza delivery guy seeing chemicals at a customer’s flat, and another person peeking into someone’s laptop where a gun is shown on an e-commerce website. The message is clear: if you see such things, you should report it to the authorities. It’s hard not to link this campaign to the National Security Law. But apart from it, on the surface life in Hong Kong seemed to be back to “normal”.
On every trip to this city, we always try to squeeze in outdoor activities, including hiking and island excursions that take advantage of Hong Kong’s many hills and small islands. And this recent trip was no exception. We made time to see Peng Chau – a small island with a laid-back ambiance and interesting independent retailers – and Tung Lung Chau where the largest of the territory’s nine ancient rock carvings is located. In terms of getting around, we ended up taking almost every public transport option Hong Kong has to offer: from the ever-reliable MTR trains, the iconic Star Ferry, and the atmospheric trams (nicknamed Ding Dings) to the speedy and efficient minibuses and double-decker buses, the fast boat (to Peng Chau), a much slower boat (to Tung Lung Chau), and an even smaller and slower sampan boat.
When it came to the food, you can imagine how happy I was being able to have har gau (shrimp dumplings) again in the city where I enjoyed them for the first time. While the ones available in Jakarta have been rather hit-and-miss, those in Hong Kong are consistently decent, although some were clearly superior than the others. Ham sui gok (fried glutinous rice dumplings), siu mai (which is popular across East and Southeast Asia with different variations), san juk ngau yuk kau (steamed beef balls), cheung fun (rice noodle roll), lo mai gai (glutinous rice chicken wrapped in lotus leaf), and gau choi gau (shrimp and chives dumplings) were among the many dim sum dishes I was glad to try again. Obviously, these little parcels of goodness were not the only delicacies we had.
We had excellent dim sum at Dim Sum Lau in North Point
The ones we had at Kung Fu Dim Sum were not as top-notch, but still very decent
Taking the slow tram through Wan Chai
We went to malls not to shop, but mainly to get to MTR stations
Interesting tilework at Central Station
This tunnel whisks cars from Sheung Wan to Fortress Hill, and vice versa, bypassing Central and Wan Chai
A covered walkway by the Central Ferry Piers
Representing the spirit of the Hong Kong people, Lion Rock looms in the far background
The iconic Star Ferry
Commissioned in 1958, Meridian Star is an active part of the Star Ferry fleet
We went across the harbor to Yau Ma Tei in Kowloon and joined a snaking line of locals and tourists alike who were curious about the claypot rice served at Hing Kee. The wait was long, and when we were finally seated, we still had to wait quite a while before our order eventually arrived sizzling at the table. Opting for a serving with eel steaks and a raw egg, and another one with goose liver sausage and chicken, we savored this classic Cantonese dish with much gusto. Just like the socarrat in paella, the crispy crust formed at the bottom of the pot is everyone’s favorite, for this thin layer of rice that has absorbed the oils and soy sauce that seeps through the ingredients above adds so much flavor and texture.
On another day, we had what James often describes as comfort food. Baked rice is arguably one of the most interesting dishes associated with Hong Kong, a product of the port city’s position as the gateway to the East. During British colonial times, Western ingredients and cooking methods were introduced to Hong Kong. Local chefs and cooks then adapted to these novelties to the local palate and a new type of cuisine emerged: Cantonese at heart but with a Western twist. Think macaroni soup, Hong Kong-style French toast, egg tarts, and of course, baked rice. The seafood version we had at Kam Kee Cafe in Causeway Bay was particularly delightful, for it came with a generous amount of fish, prawns, mussels, and squid.
On our final night, we booked a table at a Ukrainian restaurant called Ivan the Kozak and savored very delicious specialties including varenyky (Ukrainian dumplings), borscht (which I enjoyed more than I thought I would), and a rabbit stew, among other things. James and I agreed that the stew was the star thanks to the tender meat and its rich flavor. Kvass (fermented beverage made from malt and rye bread) was our choice to wash down the hearty dishes, and that is how I found my new favorite drink.
For sure, we didn’t spend most of our time just eating. On my trip in December 2016, a large plot of land in the western end of the Kowloon Peninsula’s waterfront area was conspicuously barren, a sign of a development with great significance that was going to be happen. When I returned to the city two years later, new structures began to spring up. During my latest visit, this part of the city already looked completely different. Dubbed the West Kowloon Cultural District, it is now filled with a green park, a modern art museum called M+, the Hong Kong Palace Museum (exhibiting some of the collections from the Forbidden City in Beijing), and the Xiqu Centre (a Cantonese opera theater which was the first major cultural venue to be completed in the district). We spent many hours at both museums, marveling at exquisite artifacts from the past and trying to find the meaning behind some intriguing and bewildering modern artworks. Back across the ever-impressive Victoria Harbour, the Hong Kong outpost of the New York City-based Asia Society has been around for more than a decade. However, it was only on Boxing Day in 2023 that I checked it out. We liked it so much we decided to pay this excellent example of heritage preservation through the incorporation of modern architecture a second visit the day after.
The Hong Kong skyline at dusk with Duk Ling, the only original Chinese junk boat still sailing local waters today
This view never gets old
Can you see the crowds?
A magical night at Hong Kong Cultural Centre where we watched The Nutcracker ballet
When the fast-paced city life overwhelms them, Hong Kongers can easily escape to places like this
A clear stream beneath a verdant canopy
We encountered some curiosities along the hiking trail
Tai Long Wan Beach at Chi Ma Wan (not to be confused with the other Tai Long Wans in Hong Kong)
More than 200 butterfly species can be found in Hong Kong
The enigmatic Sea Ranch, a utopian pocket of seclusion whose once-luxurious clubhouse went bankrupt in the 1990s
The small sampan boat that took us from Chi Ma Wan to Cheung Chau
We did see some more cool conservation works around the city. But if you asked me to pick the most memorable experience or activity during this trip, it would probably be watching The Nutcracker. Months prior to the trip when James asked me whether I was interested in it or not, I was both curious and skeptical. I had never watched a ballet performance live before, and the videos I saw online didn’t necessarily excite me. However, on the other hand I felt I should give this one at least a try. And what a great decision it was!
From the moment we entered the Grand Theatre at Hong Kong Cultural Centre – that iconic curving structure in Kowloon built in the late 1980s that Star Ferry passengers will notice when approaching this side of the city – I was immediately captivated. An elaborately-designed stage with whimsical background music welcomed everyone who anticipated something magical to unfold before their eyes. From the moment the show started all the way to the very end, I couldn’t help but feel mesmerized by the skillful performers, the smooth transitions of the backdrops, the live orchestra of the Hong Kong Sinfonietta playing Tchaikovsky’s famous score, and the addition of local cultural snippets in the production. Imagine the sound of mahjong tiles at Clara’s house with a big Christmas tree in the background, the appearance of Mother Dim Sum instead of Mother Ginger, and other characters from Chinese folklore. This truly was a spectacle. I had never clapped so hard and long in my life!
When we had no performance to watch and no museum to spend many hours at, we went to the islands again. During one such excursion, I made new friends. First, there was Daisann McLane, an accomplished and seasoned travel writer who throughout her colorful career spent six years as a columnist for The New York Times, became editor at large for National Geographic Traveler magazine, and founded a one-of-a-kind food travel company focusing on exploring the many neighborhoods of Hong Kong. She was joined by her two friends from New York City – an urban planner and his architectural history professor partner – and you can imagine the kind of conversations we had while doing the easy hike in Chi Ma Wan Peninsula on the island of Lantau.
Unlike my past trips to Hong Kong, this time I tried to learn a few more Cantonese words and characters, including 香 (“heung”) and 港 (“gong”), the name of the city itself. Although I can’t envision myself learning this animated language in the near future – tonal languages are just too hard for me to master – I do see myself returning to this endlessly charming city, despite the changes that have happened and will happen until the supposed expiration of its status as a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China in 2047. The Portuguese expression saudade probably aptly describes the sentiment of many Hong Kongers right now, feeling nostalgic of the good old days, but at the same time realizing that their city will only be further integrated with Mainland China in the coming years and decades.
On our final day, when I was saying goodbye to James’ parents at the Airport Express terminus within the International Finance Centre (IFC) complex in Central, his mom told me, “Don’t wait for four more years [to come back], okay?”
I certainly won’t.
Curry fish balls, one of the most ubiquitous street snacks in Hong Kong
The masked laughingtrush (Pterorhinus perspicillatus), spotted near Hong Kong Park
A Hong Kong-style breakfast at Fairwood, one of the city’s largest fast food chains
Probably the best baked seafood rice I’ve had so far
Hing Kee’s eel claypot rice
This one came with goose liver sausage which had a rather strong alcoholic taste
Fast-paced life in a city that never sleeps
What an Amazing World! 
My only visit to Hong Kong was too short, just a morning on a long layover. It was also the wrong time of the day to get lunch, but what we had at a tea shop was quite nice. I’ve always wanted to go back, and your description of the local food makes me feel I should not delay it
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Despite the recent circumstances, the Hong Kong I saw in December was still a vibrant city with so many new and cool things going on. It’s always a good idea to visit this city sooner than later.
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You did a saw so much in your short trip to Hong Kong. So do I understand this was your first ballet ever?! I love ballet and I imagine the Hong Kong company would be a great introduction although it would be funny to see Mother Dim Sum instead of Mother Ginger in the production. What I love about Hong Kong are the amount of natural settings in and around the large city. It sounds like you’ve experienced many of them. Also funny that you tried and Kvass in Hong Kong! Thanks for taking us on your return to Hong Kong!! Maggie
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Having James who knows this city well to show me around definitely helped. Otherwise, I would’ve probably seen less. The Nutcracker really was my first time ever watching a ballet performance, and I remember thinking how much better it actually was compared to the videos I had watched online. Now I’m curious about other shows.
You’re right about the city’s proximity to the great outdoors and how accessible they are. I envy Hong Kongers for this.
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My favourite ballet is Swan Lake. It’s a classic and maybe sounds unoriginal, but its a beautiful ballet.
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If I happen to be in a city where Swan Lake is being performed, I think I’ll try to get a ticket.
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You packed in a lot of sights in a short time! I went for a few days once and spent most of it being lost! 😂 What struck me about Hong Kong was how clean it was in comparison to other cities of its size. I loved being able to eat a lot of different kinds of food too! I enjoyed this post. It makes me want to go see more in HK!
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Oh I can definitely understand what you mean with getting lost in Hong Kong. Without James, I would’ve probably taken a lot more time navigating the buildings in the dense concrete jungle of the northern coasts of Hong Kong Island. It’s funny that you mentioned about cleanliness, because most of the people I know always compared this city with Singapore (which is extremely clean). I still prefer Hong Kong, though. 😁
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Yum! My mouth is watering. That eel pot is something I’d like to try. I have had the best ever shrimp dumplings that I love too. Can you believe in Chinatown in Calgary!
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If you do try it, remember to pour the soy sauce as soon as the dish arrives at your table, and quickly put the lid back on to finish the cooking process. Wait for about a minute before enjoying it. Now I’m curious about those shrimp dumplings you had in Calgary!
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Thanks for the tip. That restaurant also made the best gai lan.
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I love good stir-fried gai lan.
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Mallee, I just realized that I remembered it wrong. What I said to you about how to enjoy claypot rice was how James and I did it. Later on, we found out that we were not supposed to open the lid at all even though the dish was already at our table. It is recommended to wait for a minute before opening the lid and pouring the soy sauce. And you should not mix the bottom layer until the very end when the crust has formed.
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oh, how I miss Hong Kong. First Country Abroad that I’ve been to.
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There are so many things about Hong Kong that always make me miss it as soon as I have to go back to Jakarta.
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Another one on the wishlist! I think I would love Hongkong, too!
p.s. there’s yummy and juicy hakau (and other dimsum) in Laota, a chinese restaurant in bypass Jimbaran Bali, so far it’s the best for my limited vocabulary of chinese resto (now I want some).
thanks for sharing the experience, Bama. Compelling storytelling as always 🙂
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Unlike myself, a lot of my friends prefer Singapore to Hong Kong. They often mention the latter’s more gritty appearance, which I actually find fascinating as it gives the city so much more character. For some reason, I’ve heard about Laota, so maybe the dim sum there really is worth trying. For you, Hong Kong is literally a flight away since there are several non-stop flights serving the DPS-HKG route. I hope you’ll get there soon, Yanti!
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Despite having visited China (twice), Hong Kong has always eluded me in my travels. At the same time, it has a distinct history very removed from the rest of the country, given its British rule for many years. It’s always interesting to return and see how a place has changed since you last saw it; I imagine it especially show before and after the pandemic! One day, I hope to visit HK and see what it’s all about. Thanks for sharing!
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Hong Kong’s geography and history definitely make it a very interesting place to explore. When you go there one day, make sure to check out the small islands around it and head to some of the many hiking trails it has to offer.
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Wow, you had such a wonderful trip filled with family, urban scenery, nature walks and mouthwatering food fare! 😊 Looks like you had amazing weather too!
The last time I went to HK was in 2008 and have fond memories – we stayed at a YMCA in Kowloon and did the touristy stuff like Victoria Peak and Lantau Island. Do they still do the nightly light shows with the skyscrapers? I thought that was cool.
It’s great you also got to enjoy some cultural fare with the Nutcracker!
Your food pics are awesome and I think I’m going to venture out for some claypot rice today! 😋
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We were really lucky with the weather. On the day we returned to Jakarta, the visibility in Hong Kong was not great because of the haze. James’ mom told him that the weather was really at its best during our stay.
I went to Tsim Sha Tsui to watch the so-called A Symphony of Lights on my very first trip to Hong Kong. And when the show was over, I was approached by two locals who were trying to proselytize their belief to me. It was quite bizarre. But yes, they still do the light show every night.
The Nutcracker was very cool, and the claypot rice great. I hope you’ll have a nice one for dinner (or lunch?).
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This time of the year has the best weather for that part of the world, ditto the Philippines.
I ended up having Korean for food that day. 😆 Will save the claypot rice craving for another day.
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I think Korean food is perfect for winter! Especially the ones that are spicy. 😄
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I appreciate your in-depth approach to Hong Kong and its recent evolution. However, the city’s appearance remains impressive and captivating, as you show perfectly in your article.
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Four years was a long wait to return to this city that I always enjoyed in my past visits. That’s why I tried to experience as many different things as reasonably possible to really feel the city’s energy again.
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I would love to visit Hong Kong one day –
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I hope the opportunity will come sooner than later. It’s really a great place.
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Fun to compare your version to James. It makes for a complete picture of your time in Hong Kong. As I said to James, I have been to Hong Kong only once for work (2010) though I stayed a few extra days to take in the sites. I had quite enjoyed my stay in this lively city. (Suzanne)
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As you can see, there have been a lot of new additions to the city since your visit. James and I intentionally published the posts on our recent trip to Hong Kong on the same day — James returning to a place where he grew up and me going back to a city I became fond of.
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We could not have asked for better weather over the first few days of our time in Hong Kong… I was happily surprised at the clear blue skies and excellent visibility. It was great fun to show you some of the places I visited when I spent a month with the parents in October 2022, like Tung Lung Chau and the new waterfront park on Hong Kong Island. I also loved introducing you to some more of the local dishes and snacks that were staples during my childhood. Sadly there isn’t a place in Jakarta that does a proper claypot rice (complete with the crust) or creamy baked seafood rice the way Kam Kee Cafe makes it. But we can dream!
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We were really lucky, indeed. What’s also interesting about this trip was unlike my past visits to Hong Kong, this time I didn’t miss Jakarta that much. Somehow, my palate could even appreciate almost everything that passed through my lips throughout our week-long stay. But again, it’s always great to explore a city with someone who knows it like the back of his hand — yours in this case. Speaking of claypot rice in Jakarta, there is one place that is quite famous for it. I wonder how it compares to the Hong Kong version.
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Hi Bama, it’s good to know you’re back to Hongkong after 4 years. I just went there too last year after 9 years!
My opinion is that except for the Kowloon ICC and Elements when i had an evening meeting, everything else is mostly the same. Like you said. The view never gets old. I love the strait view pictures you took especially the way you made the picture of the pedestrian walk at star ferry looked very nice.
When i went there it was raining and the kids were complaining to go back to disneyland hotel. I didn’t get the chance to mesmerise the old view that never gets old, plus it was really foggy, visibility did not reach acrossthe straight
Nice to know you had time to wander to other islands on sampan too
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I wonder if you went in January, because I remember on my first trip to Hong Kong (which was in mid-January 2012) the fog was really bad to the point where I couldn’t see clearly what was 50 meters away from me.
Apart from the West Kowloon Cultural District, there are some additions to Hong Kong Island’s skyline too. The most notable of all is probably The Henderson which was designed by Zaha Hadid Architects.
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Wow – you guys packed a lot of sightseeing and exploring on this trip. You must have slept well each night.
The claypot place – I saw this on YouTube (Lucas Sin) https://youtu.be/X3EJ0z4HFFk?si=3TOCGihO5CRnz3WS when he did some videos on Hong Kong food and cuisine.
You might find this one interesting https://youtu.be/sBg4kl_y60Q?si=wLdmvLTgJEbmYTx5
He talks about the western style Hong Kong food.
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Haha, we did sleep well. We love Lucas Sin’s videos. Actually prior to the trip, we had watched the ones you mentioned here. I think he’s such a great storyteller — the way he explains a dish or a cooking technique is always very engaging.
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What a wonderful description of your time in Hong Kong, Bama. I particularly enjoyed how you captured your experience of going to the ballet. I cannot remember when last I’ve been in a theatre to watch a ballet. There is something magical about live performances that is impossible to capture on video.
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To be honest, although I love art performances in general, I rarely watch them at a proper theater — these days you can find online videos for almost everything. But as you said, watching such a show live feels completely different from seeing it on a laptop or a smartphone.
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Such a lovely read Bama. I could feel, and totally relate to, your enthusiasm. I’d love to go back to HK. If only for the food – my favourite! And the hiking.
Wonderful photos, especially the skyline at dusk.
Alison
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Much appreciated, Alison. If only James was still living there when you came to Hong Kong! I remember your blog posts about the hiking; this time around we didn’t do anything particularly strenuous. When the weather is nice, the city’s skyline is just spectacular.
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Oh my, what a nice return visit for you. The food, oh, the food! YUM! Hong Kong is on our list. It looks so clean. Great photos and posts! Cheers!
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As fellow foodies, I think you would enjoy the food in Hong Kong as much as I did. This recent trip turned out to be a much-needed respite from the often stressful life in Jakarta.
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Oh, Do you follow Becky Exploring? She and her husband live in Hong Kong and she is a great blogger!
https://www.beckyexploring.com/
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Thanks for the recommendation! They wrote some really detailed hiking trips they’ve done in Hong Kong, which is great.
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It must have been interesting to return to Hong Kong post-pandemic and see what’s the same and what’s changed from when you last visited. The Hong Kong skyline looks beautiful at dusk. I’ve seen a few ballets in Toronto and the Nutcracker is one of my favourites. And the music is fantastic. As always, it looks like you ate really well!
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Hong Kong is such a cool place to visit, and seems like a great place to live in. I’m not so sure about working there, though. Other cities can do impressive skylines too. But what makes Hong Kong’s special is the setting: those skyscrapers lined up on the island’s northern coasts with hills directly behind them. I did eat well, and actually I’m craving some har gau (shrimp dumplings) now!
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Great reflections about Hong Kong, Bama. I love this post, and you are so right – it is a fascinating city and has been at a crossroads for the past decade. I just arrived yesterday (a brief stopover before heading up to Hangzhou), and it marks my 3rd time here since the pandemic. So many things here are as wonderful (if not even better) as I remember. The efficient process of immigration – it never ceases to amaze me. My bags arrived before I even got to the baggage carousel. And the simple ease of transport and exploring Hong Kong (MTR is an amazing feat).
While there is this eerie feeling of Beijing looking over everyone’s shoulders… Hong Kong refuses to buckle and keeps moving ahead. You’ve mentioned Peng Chau in previous posts, and it’s been more than a decade since I last visited, and I need to return. Overall, fantastic photography, with my favorite shot of yours being the Hong Kong skyline at dusk with Duk Ling 🙂 Perfect. I’m also happy to hear you had a great time at the Hong Kong Cultural Centre and seeing the Nutcracker. I used to go there quite a bit; the shows they attracted are of such world quality and inspirational, and I love the descriptions you gave of how they tweaked the show to add local color. This may be the best bit of information you give that sums up why Hong Kong is so special – the city was built on creativity and hard work, and this desire and passion still runs strong in the city. From great food to a continually evolving skyline and beautification of the city, it is always in motion to achieve something new and special. Cheers and I bet Hong Kong was happy to have you back!
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Much appreciated, Randall. It felt so good to be back to one of my favorite cities, and it was nice to know that many things I liked about Hong Kong in the past remained the same on this recent trip. I really loved hearing people talk in Cantonese, although I only know less than 10 words. I also appreciate the cooler temperatures — a luxury for someone like me who lives in place that is hot and humid all year round.
Hong Kong has definitely been stepping up its cultural offerings, making it a prime destination for those who want to watch world-class performances and exhibitions. I can’t wait to see how the West Kowloon Cultural District evolves in the coming years. You summed up the qualities of Hong Kong really well in your comment!
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Hong Kong was the first place I visited in Asia as a teenager when it was still a British Crown Colony. It was the first place I ever saw mobile phones (the size of bricks) and men pulling rickshaws. Sitting in Pierre’s restaurant on the top floor of the Mandarin Oriental in the evenings and lunch at the Peninsula in the afternoons listening to bored millionaires reminiscing about their memories of British India and the Raj.
Hong Kong really has changed. Thanks for your wonderful post, it brought back so many memories.
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How much has changed indeed. I don’t think there are rickshaws in Hong Kong anymore, and what millionaires talk at the restaurants in the Mandarin Oriental (which is no longer Pierre’s) and at the Peninsula these days are probably more about how to navigate the geopolitical challenges.
Thank you for sharing your memories of this fascinating city.
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Oh I’d return just for those dim sums! Wonderful photos Bama. This made me so nostalgic for Hong Kong. We stayed in Wanchai on our second visit and so enjoyed the daily tram ride to the centre. Very unlikely I’ll be heading that way in the near future, sadly.
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The more often I come to Hong Kong, the better I can appreciate dim sum (and memorize all those names!). The trams are still a nice way to explore the northern part of Hong Kong Island, for they afford nice views of the city’s dense urban jungle. I also love the fact that they’re not complicated to use at all. Which part of the world are you thinking of seeing this year?
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We are planning a family gathering in Europe in June for my sister’s 75th. We have a two yr Schengen visa but the others are struggling with visa issues. She’ll be going to Bali after that and is urging me to join her. Can’t say I’m not tempted 🙂 I messaged you on FB regarding that. .
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I heard that it’s also incredibly hard for Indonesians to get Schengen visa these days, even for people who have been to Europe or the US before. I’ve replied to your DM on Twitter. Sorry I didn’t see that earlier.
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Messaged you on Twitter, not FB 🙂
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mas Bamaaaa…
ini ceritanya ngambek mau komen hahaha (beberapa hari lalu aku udah nulis komen panjang kali lebar di sini, tau-tau disuru login ulang ke wp dan setelah login hilang dong komennya, padahal udah cape nulis di hape) wkwkwkwk…
jadi sekarang nulis lagi, hahahaha…
Jadi kemaren-kemaren itu emang pengen ke HK, tapi bertanya-tanya bagaimana HK sekarang setelah pandemi, Kangen juga, jadi pas baca blog mas Bama ini, jadi agak terhibur sih, seperti kesana lagi… Ntar kalo ada libur lagi dan udaranya sejuk mau deh ke HK lagi. Tapi latinnya tetap dikit yah… ato makin dikit?
Dan as usual, kalo baca blog mas Bama pasti buntutnya jadi laper karena foto makanannya sangat mengundang. Jadi sekarang aku makan dulu baru baca hahahaha…
Duh beneran, aku kayak berada di sana lho ini…
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Waduh, saya juga pernah tuh mbak, udah nulis komen panjang-panjang, eeehhh pas diklik tombol comment malah ilang.
Mbak Riyanti, sebelumnya saya pengen tanya, latin itu apa ya mbak? Saya coba mikir itu apa tapi kok ya gak kepikiran. Di Hong Kong banyak tempat baru yang menarik sih mbak. Sepertinya kalo Mbak Riyanti ke sana lagi mesti ke West Kowloon Cultural District juga. Pas saya ke salah satu museum di sana pas lagi ada special exhibition tentang peradaban Sanxingdui dari Sichuan, dan itu bener-bener bikin nganga berdecak kagum banget.
Ngomong-ngomong soal makanan, emang sih dim sum di sana juara. Udangnya gede ginuk-ginuk dan bebek panggangnya ngangenin banget. Tapi ada satu makanan yang saya baru coba di trip kali ini, yaitu chicken pie ala Hong Kong. Dan itu beneran enak banget, apalagi kalau dimakan pas masih hangat. Isiannya banyak dan rasanya mantep.
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Hihihi… tulisan latin maksudnya hihihihi… pas awal-awal ke HK, masih banyak, tapi lama-lama makin berkurang, soalnya beneran aku buta huruf mandarin, gak ngerti blasssss…
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Oalah hahaha. Kalo kesan saya sih ada lebih banyak tulisan latin di Hong Kong dibanding di Taiwan, makanya saya seneng-seneng aja di Hong Kong. Cuma ya karena ada James jadi saya gak terlalu mikirin kalopun ternyata gak ada aksara latinnya, hehe.
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