At the heart of Jakarta’s central business district
It was three months ago when the idea of writing this post crossed my mind. At that time, the air pollution in Jakarta, a city I’ve called home since 2008, was at its worst in recent years. Videos circulating online taken by airplane passengers showed how the city was blanketed in a sinister-looking miasma beneath bright blue skies. From my desk on the 42nd floor of one of the skyscrapers in the central business district, the high-rise buildings further away were barely visible. On better days, the mountains in the south and the sea to the north can be clearly seen. But it feels as if those days were from a distant past. The Covid-19 pandemic is officially over – it is now treated as a regular infectious disease instead – but I decided to wear a face mask again to protect my lungs, especially when the air quality is really bad.
How much longer can I stand this city? This thought popped in my head several times every time I looked out the window at the brown-tinted air that stretched as far as the eye could see.
However, just like the way I described my relationship with the city in a blog post from 2018, Jakarta knows how to let me down, but before I go down too far, it also knows how to lift me up and cast a ray of hope.
Then I started re-evaluating my relationship with this megacity of 10 million people (more than 30 million if you include the entire metropolitan area). What is it about the Indonesian capital that I like? … that makes me miss it when traveling abroad? It turns out, there are more reasons than I previously thought.
First, its role as Indonesia’s economic hub naturally attracts people from all over the country to come and seek the endless opportunities the city has to offer, making it a true melting pot in the sprawling archipelagic nation. This results in the availability of regional cuisines, from the richly-spiced Padang (Minangkabau) dishes of West Sumatra to famously sweet Central Javanese food, irresistibly hot and aromatic Manado (Minahasa) fare from North Sulawesi, and a plethora of other culinary traditions with their own unique characteristics. However, one of the most exciting finds for me so far was when I tried mie Tarempa, a relatively unknown dish from an eponymous village in the Anambas Islands, one of Indonesia’s outermost regions that is close to the fiercely-contested South China Sea. The fried noodles were beautifully coated in the house spice mix, cooked one portion at a time to maintain consistently top-notch quality.
Second is, of course, the city’s thriving cultural scene. Jakarta is home to the National Museum, an institution where a lot of Indonesia’s most valuable treasures are displayed. It provides easy access for the general public to marvel at the finesse and craftsmanship achieved by the peoples who once lived across the archipelago centuries and even millennia ago. As for contemporary arts, the city’s many art galleries are not only great places to get to know the works of the country’s most talented painters and sculptors, but also as a platform for international artists – like Yayoi Kusama – to connect with their admirers in Indonesia. On a more mainstream note, Jakarta even has a mall that has recently remodeled itself as a place that promotes Hallyu (the “Korean Wave”), from K-pop to Korean food, complete with a Korean visa application center on the upper levels.
The third reason, which is arguably the most important, is the fact that in many aspects Jakarta is a better place to live now compared to how it was when I first moved to the city. It may be hard to believe this, especially for those who are used to seeing the city making international headlines for something bad: Jakarta is sinking, it is sometimes flooded, it has terrible traffic congestion and persistent economic inequality, and in the past it suffered from multiple terrorist attacks. But if you look closely, if you actually live in the city, it’s hard not to notice the improvements that have actually happened.
Shortly after dusk in Indonesia’s biggest city
Mie Tarempa, a delicious noodle dish from the Anambas Islands
Luti gendang, fried sweet bread filled with skipjack tuna floss, also from the Anambas Islands
At one of my favorite Balinese restaurants in the city
Bebek timbungan, a duck dish where the bird is slow-cooked in a bamboo tube
Typically made from fish, sate lilit is one of the most popular dishes from Bali
A Balinese-style salad made with star fruit leaves
This one was made with ferns
The so-called “spaghetti ice cream” from Ragusa, one of the oldest ice cream parlors in Jakarta
The massive Bhairava Buddha statue from the 13th – 14th centuries, displayed at the National Museum
An ornately-decorated Nandi from the 13th century
A 2018 artwork by Mulyana, a young Indonesian artist specializing in knitting
Artworks by Hendra Priyadhani, who is also a vocalist in a rock band
More than ten years ago, the city buses that plied the streets of Jakarta were generally in bad shape. There was neither a fixed schedule, nor air conditioning – making every bus trip a hot and sweltering ride. And as if things were not bad enough, pickpocketing was rife. Today, however, Jakarta is said to have the most extensive Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) network in the world, served by decent air-conditioned buses with relatively short headways depending on the route.
In addition to the BRT and the commuter rail system that, despite its shortcomings, remains a vital means of transportation for those living in Jakarta’s suburbs and satellite cities to get to work in the downtown area, in 2019 the city finally opened its first ever Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) line as well as a Light Rail Transit (LRT) line. While the MRT proved to be a game changer, reinvigorating businesses along its route, the so-called LRT Jakarta has so far been underutilized thanks to its short length connecting mainly residential areas in the city’s northeast. Fortunately, three weeks ago construction had finally started to extend it to the city center.
The latest rail-based transit system opened in the city is the LRT Jabodebek – not to be confused with LRT Jakarta – which was inaugurated in late August 2023 after multiple delays and a series of problems. Connecting the satellite cities in the east and south to the central business district, it became an instant hit right after opening, for it has proven to be more time- and cost-efficient than driving a car. However, many issues persist, and taxpayers are watching closely to see how everyone involved in this project is going to fix them, one problem at a time.
The MRT’s current line is being expanded to the old town district in the northern part of the city. And next year, the construction for the second line of the MRT (the East-West line) will begin while there have been talks to break ground on the third line (the southern line) – which will be built with the help of South Korea – around the same time. I’ll take the last one with a grain of salt, but I really can’t wait to see how much Jakarta will be transformed for the better in 10 – 15 years.
Heavy constructions aside, it is also encouraging to see more green and public spaces in the city, like Tebet Eco Park. Situated not too far from the central business district, the formerly low-key neighborhood park has been revamped into its current incarnation which is very exciting to explore. I went shortly after it was reopened to the public, and it was really heartwarming to see how excited people were walking inside the park across its different “zones”. Closer to the city center is the so-called Martha Christina Tiahahu Literary Park, a formerly sad-looking public space which was then remodeled into a small but inspiring place equipped with a cozy public library. And from what I can see, there seem to be plans to add more parks and gardens like these two across the entire urban area of Jakarta.
From feeling so helplessly desperate about the bad air pollution to finding reasons to love the city again, Jakarta certainly knows how to play with my heart. This months-long contemplation really made me realize that in the end, it seems like I have a soft spot for “bad” places that keep improving as opposed to “good” ones where things slowly deteriorate. I hope the right decisions will be made so that the city can be proud not only of its expanding public transit and new civic spaces, but also of its good air quality one day. It can be done! Maybe the city leaders need to learn from Kaohsiung.
Families at Tebet Eco Park’s playground
A morning stroll at the park
That bright pedestrian bridge connects the north and south sections of the park
Crossing the bridge
A lively public space
A leafier corner of the park
The months-old LRT Jabodebek
One of the LRT Jabodebek stations viewed from a nearby commuter train station
Lapangan Banteng Park near the country’s main mosque and cathedral
P.S.: A few days ago, Coldplay had their first ever concert in Jakarta, and it was crazy! While there were only tens of thousands of people who were lucky to be able to get a ticket to watch the show at the city’s main stadium, everyone else was impacted in more ways than one. In the afternoon, just before rush hour, the traffic became increasingly gridlocked, much worse than usual. I had a dinner appointment that day. But thanks to the ever-reliable MRT (which was packed not only with daily commuters, but also Coldplay fans heading out to the venue), and an elevated section of the BRT, it only took me a little over half an hour to get to where I needed to go. Moments like this remind me of how much better the public transportation network in Jakarta has become.
What an Amazing World! 
We didn’t even consider visiting Jakarta when we traveled to Indonesia a few years ago. Mostly, it was because of the reasons that you form your hate part of this love-hate relationship. It sounds like it’s becoming much more liveable with efficient public transit and park spaces. Has the smog not improved since more people are taking the MRT? Maggie
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To be fair there’s only one line of the MRT, which is clearly far from adequate in tackling the city’s traffic problems. But it’s nice to know that it is being extended (in addition to the new lines that should be built soon). Jakarta’s air quality is usually good when strong winds blow the noxious gases away from the city. But people know we can’t rely on nature alone to fix this.
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Sometimes, a place that we once didn’t appreciate has slowly made its way to our hearts again. I’m that way about Los Angeles, my hometown: there’s a lot to be said about its pollution and homelessness crisis, but at the same time, it’s also beautiful and incredible multicultural. I think it takes time and patience to see the changes and to fall in love with it again. Looks like Jakarta has come a long way in the past decade, and it appears things are continuing to look up!
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It really took time and patience for me to love Jakarta. Had nothing been done to address the city’s most pressing problems, probably I would’ve had a harder time calling it home. I read that Los Angeles has also done quite a few good things to improve its livability. Maybe the fact that it will be hosting the 2028 Summer Olympics also helps.
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Suka banget dengan kalimat ini “Perenungan selama berbulan-bulan ini benar-benar menyadarkan saya bahwa pada akhirnya, sepertinya saya lebih menyukai tempat-tempat yang “buruk” yang terus membaik dibandingkan dengan tempat-tempat “baik” yang perlahan-lahan memburuk.”
Selanjutnya berkunjung ke Srilanka bro, negara Asia Selatan yang masih beriklim tropis seperti Indonesia. Bakal takjub dengan alam mereka yang masih sangat terjaga dengan aneka satwa liar seperti merak yang berkeliaran di jalan tanpa diganggu. Ada 26 taman nasional siap dikunjungi hahahaaa Begitu juga peninggalan sejarah mereka yang menakjubkan di Anuradhapura, Polonaruwa dan Sigiriya. Dunia kulineri mereka juga kaya rempah dan daun-daun seperti Indonesia, yang citarasanya berbeda dengan masakan India yang melulu kari.
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Kebetulan Sri Lanka memang salah satu negara favorit saya di Asia karena beberapa alasan. Waktu pertama kali ke sana di tahun 2012, saya dibuat takjub betapa bersihnya negara ini. Image Asia Selatan di benak pikiran saya sedikit banyak terpengaruh dengan bagaimana India dipersepsikan oleh banyak orang. Jadi pas melihat betapa banyak hal di Sri Lanka yang lebih baik dari ekspektasi, itu sungguh meninggalkan kesan yang mendalam. Hal lain yang saya suka dari Sri Lanka adalah mudahnya melihat hewan liar tidak hanya di alam, tapi di kota-kotanya. Kedua kali ke Sri Lanka di tahun 2015 saya kembali mengunjungi Sigiriya, Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, dan Dambulla, dan ternyata saya tidak bosan sama sekali. Bahkan banyak hal yang luput dari perhatian di tahun 2012 yang saya baru ngeh di tahun 2015. Dan bener banget soal makanannya. Kaya akan rempah, tapi masih terasa nyaman di lidah.
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Ease of transport (recent) and the fact that Jakarta is the center of everything, artists concerts, movies/ movie festivals playing in the cinemas, restaurants main branches, flight discounts… these are all the things that makes me miss living in Jakarta. JFF (Japanese Film Festival) never plays in Denpasar *cries
I never miss the temperature and humidity though, hahaha!
Last time I visited Jakarta a few months ago, I checked out Tebet Eco Park (love it!), and hung out from late afternoon until night at Senayan Park. The fountains in the lake help cooling the air around. I think a city as hot as Jakarta definitely needs more water feature and tree shades in its public parks. We can also improve on maintaining cleanliness though!
Next visit I want to see Taman Langsat, Urban Park Cipete, and Hutan Kota GBK! Have you ever been in those places?
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Whenever I go to Semarang (my hometown), the public transport is usually something I immediately miss about Jakarta. Speaking of JFF, there’s another Japan-related event happening in the city this weekend. It’s the annual Jak Japan Matsuri.
Now you piqued my curiosity about how Tebet Eco Park looks like in the afternoon. Maybe the next time I go I should do what you did. I have yet to make it to Senayan Park, Taman Langsat, and Hutan Kota GBK (which I really want to see). But I’ve been to Urban Forest Cipete a few months after it opened. It was quite nice, but I was thinking it would have been better if most people had taken the MRT to get there instead of driving. The entrance is literally a short walk from one of the exits of Cipete Raya MRT station.
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Oh I just remembered. Tanatap Coffee in jalan Ampera also left a nice impression after my visit..
although it’s only a one brand cafe and not a mall/ complex. One Satrio also needs more shade trees.
Ahh, the thing I heard a lot is that many of our people are so lazy to walk even a little distance 😂 haha!
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Oh I remember seeing photos of Tanatap Coffee a few years ago, and I was immediately intrigued by its many trees. I haven’t been, though. I agree with you on One Satrio. While I appreciate the semi-outdoor setting, I think more trees would make this place more enjoyable, especially at midday.
I also often complain about the fact that a lot of people here don’t really like to walk. 😆
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Not only Coldplay, The Corrs also played in Jakarta a few weeks ago. Jakarta seems to have a lot to offer, thank you for pointing it out.
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Wow, I’m impressed that you knew The Corrs also performed in Jakarta. Quite a lot of international recording artists have made Jakarta one of their stops during their Asia tour. But what made Coldplay special was the novelty (they never performed in Indonesia before) and the scale of the concert (at the 77-seater national stadium).
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My connection with The Corrs goes back to my Irish days, and in recent weeks my social networks have been bombarded with news of their tour of Asia and Australia, including Jakarta. It’s a region of the world that’s come back into my interest after having travelled mainly in Europe in recent years.
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Coldplay is here tonight in Perth… iplan to stay well away from the city centre! Jakarta looks huge and scary to a girl from a small sleepy city like mine!
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I know! And they will perform for two nights. Speaking of sleepy, I remember reading somewhere a Jakartan describing Perth exactly that. 😄
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Lol yes our city is sleepy. It would probably put you into a coma after the big vibrant cities you visit in Asia! 🤣
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But I love going to places that are different from home. So, I might enjoy Perth! Been thinking of going for a long time, given its relative proximity to Jakarta.
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You should come! There is still lots of interesting and different things to do! If you ever come let me know, I’ll show you a few cool places! X
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Thanks for the offer, Anna! Really appreciate it.
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I was in Jakarta just last month. A 1 day biz trip. It certainly is much more modernised than I thought it would be. But traffic is still terrible 😅
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The traffic is still bad, indeed. But I do see how more and more people, especially those living close to the MRT, LRT, or commuter train lines, opt for taking public transport. It shows that when people are given an option for beating the traffic that is cheap and reasonably comfortable, they will take it.
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I really enjoyed this love letter to Jakarta – hard to believe your population in the metropolitan area is almost that of the entire country of Canada!
No city is perfect. Toronto gets so much hate from the rest of Canada and locals but it’s a fantastic city with great cultural diversity and food and for the most part, quality of life.
The cuisine in Jakarta sounds wonderful – that slow roasted duck in the bamboo sounds so sumptuous.
It’s interesting to read about the public transit issues in your city too. We’re facing the same with ours. It often gets so politicized that nothing gets done.
I will say I would draw the line air pollution – and hence why public transit is so important – and would find that very hard to live with. I’d definitely mask.
Did you try to get a Coldplay ticket? I’d love to see them one day!
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Crazy, isn’t it? Jakarta has more people than the entire population of Quebec, or British Columbia. It’s no surprise that public parks are scarce in this city. Speaking of Toronto, I almost went in 2020. I had already booked the flights, but we all know what happened.
That duck was so tender and juicy, and the spices made it really delicious. Even my mom, who has very high standards when it comes to Indonesian food, enjoyed everything we ordered at that restaurant.
I often watch videos on this Youtube channel called RM Transit. I think the creator is based in Toronto, and he has made quite a few videos about the city’s transit problems and how to make it better.
You know, when they started selling the tickets, I was thinking I didn’t know a lot of Coldplay’s songs. But when I saw the playlist a day after the concert, I was surprised to find out I actually knew most of the songs in that list! I think the next time they come to Jakarta I’ll try to get a ticket — if I can.
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I think I would get claustrophobic living in such a crowded place. I found returning to Manila so jarring in 2008 and 2010 after 20 years away.
I think you would come Toronto and find it very spacious. 😆🤣 People love to complain about our city but there are many wonderful things about it, such as the outdoor spaces. Do let me know if you visit, and I’ll be happy to show you around.
Does your mom cook too? If so, you should start a blog or Instagram with her!
I’ll have to check out RM Transit. We have lots of citizen journalists in our city (I was one of them once) and transit is a popular topic. 😆
Coldplay puts on a great show and if Taylor Swift makes it your way you should join in on the chaos of trying to get a ticket!
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When I went to Manila in 2011, I found it quite similar with Jakarta in many ways. But I’m sure it has changed a lot since then.
Really appreciate your offer, Ab! I’m not planning to go to Canada anytime soon, but I will let you know if I do.
Oh, my mom is an amazing cook. Well, I didn’t realize this until one day when one of my friends came and had lunch at my parents’ house. His comment was, “no wonder you always want to go straight home right after classes. Your mom’s cooking is so delicious!”
What I heard is Taylor Swift was supposed to come to Jakarta during her upcoming Asia tour. But that would coincide with the general elections period in Indonesia, a very precarious time when big protests could suddenly erupt.
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I hate Manila’s traffic and get raging mad when I’m there wasting valuable vacation time from work sitting in traffic. 😆 If it wasn’t for family, I’d avoid Manila and go to the beach resorts instead.
It’s nice when moms are good cooks. Creates such wonderful memories. You should do a dedicated post on her cooking (if you have not done so already).
Good idea for Taylor to avoid big protests. She’s a big enough deal that protestors could use her presence to stir up attention.
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I remember I always took the train (it was probably the commuter train) to get from one point to another in the city. Or I just walked. But I tried to avoid the latter because I got lost easily (I still do!).
I did write some posts about her cooking in the past, but it was many years ago. So a new one is overdue. Thanks for giving me a brilliant idea for a future post!
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Your home city is beautiful, Bama, and I have to say the food looks amazing. Maybe with the improvements they’ve made so far, something can be done about the air quality. I hate to think of 10 million people breathing contaminated air.
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Beautiful is definitely a word not often associated with Jakarta. I usually take photos of the city when the weather is nice and the air is cleaner. But when the pollution gets really bad, I’d rather stay at home or go somewhere indoors.
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Great post, Bama. A love-hate affair with such a beautiful city. And like all great cities, “before I go down too far, it also knows how to lift me up and cast a ray of hope.” For some reason, I should have also known a big attraction for you would be the rich assortment of culinary traditions from around your country… It is exciting to hear that you can still be surprised by unique dishes that hold characteristics from more remote areas. The story of your find of ‘mie Tarempa’ is what big cities can offer.
Your photo of “Shortly after dusk in Indonesia’s biggest city” is a perfect reminder of how cities thrive, and if you live there, it can go unnoticed. You mention the gains in infrastructure (buses and public transport) and the increase in green and public spaces in the city. I was in the Xiaoshan district of Hangzhou this past month, and I was blown away at how beautiful the city has become… clean, green, and, most importantly, the people, while hustling along, were also beautifully happy. The feeling I experienced back in my ‘old home’ of Xiaoshan is mirrored a bit in your post here. I like how you say, “I have a soft spot for “bad” places that keep improving as opposed to “good” ones where things slowly deteriorate.” This alone is a reason to love a city with so much to offer – and it also makes me appreciate excellent city planning, with officials making it happen. I look forward to visiting at some point 🙂
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Those regional dishes also tell stories of people who left their homes to seek better opportunities in Jakarta, which is not the easiest city to live in.
I have a friend who has been to Hangzhou, and she raved about the lake. I wonder whether the upgrades the city received were due to the fact that it hosted the latest edition of the Asian Games. When Guangzhou was selected to host the same multi-sport event back in 2010, the southern Chinese city saw a lot of improvements as well.
Come to Jakarta four or five years from now, Randall. I’m sure by then public transport-wise the city will be even better. And I hope the same thing can be said about its air quality too.
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Every city has its downsides. We tend to notice them a lot more when we live there. It sounds like there are many redeeming qualities about Jakarta though and it’s great to hear that the quality of life there has been improving. And the food looks delicious!
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That is true. It’s hard to make a place where millions of people live perfect. But imperfections often add to the charm of a city. Jakarta still has a long way to go to be a truly livable place. But the right steps to get there have definitely been taken.
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An excellent overview of the city Bama, with wonderful photos. It does feel like it’s becoming more and more liveable. It would not suit me to live in such a megalopolis, but I’d sure like to visit.
Alison
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What I like about living in a big city is the ease of access to a lot of things. And since I moved to Jakarta in 2008, I really feel the city has become more and more connected to the world, thanks to its position as Indonesia’s economic center. But on the other hand, things can be a little too hectic and stressful. I hope when you come one day, the air quality will be much better than how it is now.
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This is a great post, Bama. Your photos are terrific! I had mentioned previously that my in-laws lived in Jakarta in the 70s-80s. I had hoped to find some photos to share with you, but my Mother-in-law has been downsizing lately, preparing to sell her house and move in with us. She has already thrown out many old photos. I’ve heard so many stories about their time in Jakarta, and I am amazed at how much it has changed and improved. We often get caught up in our negative perceptions about our hometown; your post is a reminder to look for the positive.
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Thank you, Bill and Debbie. Ahh too bad her old photos are gone — if only they had been scanned. But downsizing really is the way to go. My best friend told me how his grandparents who came to Jakarta in the 1970s recalled the sights of people bathing in the river! I think it’s very normal comparing our city with others that are better. But what we often forget is to compare it with its old self. This can help us appreciate the improvements that have happened.
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What a lovely post about Jakarta, Bama. Comparing the city as it is now to the one you moved to in 2008 is so wise, instead of just focusing on the things that could be improved upon. I am happy to hear that there are many reasons for you to appreciate all the wonderful things about Jakarta that makes it an exciting place to live in. It is wonderful that so much good progress has been made, especially with public transport, despite the many challenges.
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I guess my relationship with Jakarta has been and will always be a work in progress. I’m sure many Jakartans share the same feeling, especially those who have been living in this city for a long time. In a year’s time, Jakarta and other cities and regions across Indonesia will hold local elections. It’s interesting to see what the next administration will do to further improve the city (hopefully).
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Fingers crossed the next administration will do a good job at making Indonesia´s cities more livable for their inhabitants, Bama.
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What a lovely post Bama with so much thought and reflection put into it. I think the pollution would be very hard as no one wants to breathe in unsafe air. Is it always polluted or are there months or times when it is worse? I imagine it is hard to contain the pollution given the large size of Jakarta. I agree though that in life you always have to look at the positives and there are many to your city. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
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Thank you, Nicole. There are days when the air quality is generally better (this happens when strong winds blow the pollution away from the city), and this is when I usually go out and take photos. But when it’s bad, you can really feel the noxious gases in your nose.
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I hope the urban planners in Jakarata will read this and give themselves a pat in the back. And to also look at how much more there is to do. I think the Greater Toronto Area (GTA) is around 6 million. We still have so much work to do on our public transit, infrastructure, bike lanes, urban parks etc… But we also don’t have to deal with the challenges of a city that is sinking. I hope to visit your city one of these days.
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I doubt they’ll find their way to this blog post. But if they really do, at least they know that people appreciate all the improvements Jakarta has seen in recent years. You’re right about another problem the city is facing. I honestly don’t know whether enough effort has been made to prevent the land from further subsiding in the Jakarta metropolitan area. I remember reading about the wildfires in Canada earlier this year. Was Toronto badly affected?
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We only had a few days here and there of smoky air – nothing like what some communties elsewhere were experiencing.
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Good to hear that.
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I was in Jakarta just last month. A 1 day biz trip. It certainly is much more modernised than I thought it would be. But traffic is still terrible 😅
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Modern Jakarta was built as a car-centric city. That’s why it seems natural for a lot of people to go around by car. However, luckily the public transport system keeps improving.
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Ah your post gets me all nostalgic. I lived in Jakarta from 2001 to 2005 working for an English newspaper in the city, so my job took me to various nooks and crannies of the city. Coming from another big city myself (Surabaya), Jakarta made me jaded, fast. At least Surabaya wasn’t as bad (back then) and what can you do but loving your hometown, really?
I left Jakarta in early 2006 and been back a couple of times (last time was 2015) and heard that there are so many new things now, I haven’t even tried the subway yet, and I heard that it was fast and efficient.
I can’t deny it as well, I love big cities for all the things that you could find in one, melting pot both in culture and also food, but I think I am quite happy living in a “smaller” city now where I could go from one corner to another on a bike, without being afraid of getting run down. I do hope to return to Jakarta one day , just as a common tourist.
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There have been quite a lot of changes in Jakarta since your last visit eight years ago. I hope the next time you come, the air pollution won’t be too bad. You had me intrigued when you said you enjoy living in a smaller city. That was exactly how I felt when I went to Kaohsiung two months ago. It only has a little over 2 million inhabitants, but it has many things you would want from a big city, minus the hustle and bustle of places like Jakarta.
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Most huge cities have their share of problems. Looking at the positive points is helpful but as we get older it’s more of a challenge.
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I guess that’s true. I remember when I was much younger, I was a very optimistic person. Now I tend to have a more realistic approach to life in general.
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At least you have a metro, Bama 😛 So be optimistic! Honestly, the station looks so much cleaner than those in Europe. I’ve read that bullet trains are now running in Java. Have you tried it?
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Saigon will *soon* have a metro as well! 😁 In general, the MRT and LRT stations in Jakarta are quite clean. I know what you mean when you compare these with the ones in Europe. And yes, the Chinese-built high-speed railway is now open. From what I read and heard it sounds better than what a lot of people expected. I have yet to take it, but I surely will.
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Bama, your writing echoes what I feel about this mad megalopolis with soul-crushing traffic jams and terrible pollution. Tebet Eco Park was such a breath of fresh air – I hope it stays well-maintained and looks as good as that time we went soon after it opened to the public. We should really organize a staycation to have mie Tarempa again and explore more places around Kota and Mangga Besar.
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I am curious about how Tebet Eco Park looks now. According to someone I know who goes there every week, it sounds like things are still looking good. Now that is a brilliant idea! I’ve always wanted to go back to that mie Tarempa place, but it would make more sense to make the trip all the way there if we have other things to see as well.
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So much of what you think/feel/write is synonymous with all big cities, the world over. The good usually outweighs the bad and the sum is constantly morphing. What one prefers is a very personal thing. I am a city person – grew up in one, live in one, absolutely LOVE where I am now and wouldn’t swap it for anything!
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That is true, Ani. Living in such a big city can sometimes overwhelm me. But whenever I try to imagine moving to the countryside, I immediately think of the good things Jakarta offer. If only the air quality was not as bad.
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City life is often romanticized. Books, television and movies have presented it as bursting from the seams with adventure, culture and a wealth of possibilities. Making it big in the big city has been a mantra for young people for decades, and not without good reason. But realistically, not everyone is going to enjoy the hustle and bustle of an urban environment. While you’ll find more opportunities in the city and plenty of entertainment, the cost of living is higher in the city than in suburban or rural areas as well as less personal space. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Very true. While I love what a big city has to offer as well as the easy access to many things living in one can bring, the cost of living can be a headache. And on top of that, there is pollution. However, despite all the downsides, I still prefer living in the big city I’ve been calling home for more than a decade now to a life in the countryside. Although I do wonder if eventually that will change one day.
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Hi Bama,
Thank you for sharing many insights on Jakarta. I can totally relate to your love-hate relationship with a big city.
Above, you mentioned one of your favourite Balinese restaurants in Jakarta. I wonder what the name of the restaurant is. Could you give me more recommendations for Indonesian/Balinese restaurants in Jakarta?
Cheers,
Vy
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Hi Vy,
The restaurant I’m referring to in the post is called Bali Timbungan. It’s located at Sarinah, a historic mall in downtown Jakarta. If you look for a place that does pan-Indonesian cuisine, I recommend Noesaka at One Satrio, an open-air dining hub also at the city center. There are, of course, many other good Indonesian restaurants here, but those two are some of my personal favorites.
Cheers,
Bama
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Noted, thank you. I am going to Jakarta this week for the first time. So I am doing some research about the city using your blog as well as your friend James’ blog. Very useful posts. Keep up the good work!
Best,
Vy
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