The east gate of what was once Isvarapura
It’s amazing, and scary, to think of what our hands are capable of doing.
They slap, they punch, they stab, they fire a gun, they molest, they hurt.
But they also write, they cook, they sculpt, they caress, they play music, they paint, they create.
Over the course of history, we have read and seen how with the rise of great kingdoms and empires these opposing sides of what human hands can do often unfold in parallel to one another. During territorial expansions, the brute nature of the hands was always favored. But as a realm grew, its monarch usually picked those whose hands were gifted with the ability to produce things on the finer side – a lavish palace or a richly-decorated temple for instance – to create the most beautiful and magnificent structure to cement his/her reign, or to celebrate a victory, or to impress foreign dignitaries.
However, there have been people who were able to leave such a legacy in spite of not being a ruler. In the 10th-century Khmer empire, one such individual seemed to emerge at the right place and at the right time. During the rule of Rajendravarman II – the Khmer king who built Pre Rup and East Mebon – there was a courtier named Yajñavaraha. His main roles were as the palace’s physician as well as mentor to the crown prince, who also happened to have a penchant for music and astronomy. His important position in the inner circle of the court was mainly attributed to the fact that he was the grandson of Harshavarman I, the king of the Khmer empire who reigned at the beginning of the 10th century. With his brother Vishnukumara, Yajñavaraha commissioned a temple dedicated to Shiva which was located further away from the capital in a town called Isvarapura. His sister Jahavi also helped collect donations for the construction of the new shrine which was never intended to rival the grandeur and massive scale of the state temples situated in Yasodharapura – the capital.
Donations were necessary as this structure was not funded by the state. But maybe this also explains why the new temple of Isvarapura was built quite differently from its contemporaries. The most notable deviation from the prevailing temple-building norm back then was the scale. This compound, which we now know as Banteay Srei, was a lot more compact in size and lacked the multi-level platforms on which other temples were normally built. Also, although officially a Shaivite temple, this east-facing compound which can be roughly divided in half along its east-west axis was dedicated to two deities of the Hindu Trimurti: the southern part was reserved for Shiva, while the north for Vishnu. This, however, has a precedent as Rajendravarman’s state temple (Pre Rup) also had shrines dedicated to both of them. But what is most striking and emblematic of Banteay Srei is the incorporation of exceptionally fine and delicate carvings depicting iconic scenes from both the Mahabharata and Ramayana, two Hindu epics originating in India which had inspired artisans and sculptors across Southeast Asia to immortalize chapters of the stories in stone as well as in the form of dances and puppets. The use of red sandstone as the main material for the construction of this temple further accentuates the intricate reliefs adorning all corners of the compound.
Seeing through all the way to the structures in the inner enclosure
Indra (the king of the gods) on his mount, Airavata (depicted as a three-headed elephant)
The main pathway along the east-west axis
What remains from a structure in the northern half of the compound
Narasimha (an incarnation of Vishnu) killing Hiranyakashipu
Every surface is covered with fine carvings
A column that supports nothing but itself
A look at the core structures of the temple compound
A few days before our visit to Banteay Srei, we went to the Angkor National Museum in Siem Reap, a privately-run museum housing some of the most precious artifacts from the Angkorian period. In a section where decorated pediments and lintels from various ancient temples around the city were displayed, James stopped at one particular object which was originally part of Banteay Srei. Its carvings were remarkably detailed and of high quality, making it stand out among other pieces of ancient art in that room.
“I think Banteay Srei is going to be my favorite temple!” James confidently claimed.
Fortunately, he was right. We went to this temple on the day with the best weather during our week-long stay in Siem Reap. It was a quarter to nine in the morning when we arrived at the eastern gate of the temple compound. The skies were blue, the sun was casting its warm rays onto the red sandstone, and there were no other tourists in sight. Above us, a flock of parakeets were busy chirping and flying from one tree branch to another, breaking the otherwise tranquil ambiance below. As I walked closer to see the first pediment and the columns underneath, I won’t lie that I was wonderstruck with what I saw. The famous fine carvings of Banteay Srei were right before my eyes, and what people have said and written about this temple is right: it may be modest in size, but it’s rich in decorations. Through the door frames of this outer gate, I could clearly see the main sanctuary at the far end. However, we took our time and checked other structures on the right- and left-hand sides of the main pathway first, which were no less beautiful.
The core compound sits within an enclosure with an artificial moat situated directly behind the walls. While the structures I just saw with their elaborate reliefs were impressive, I was speechless upon seeing those sanctums, for each one was richly embellished with stone carvings of outstanding finesse. No words could adequately describe the sublime beauty before me. While I was still trying to process this sight, I pointed my camera at different corners of the structures, attempting to capture the many details on each shrine. A few weeks after the trip when my mom was shown photos of Banteay Srei, she thought those fine decorations were woodcarvings because they look so smooth and fine it’s hard to believe they were carved out of stone.
The Khmer empire might have built among the most magnificent structures the world has ever seen. But to me, Banteay Srei undoubtedly embodies the highest achievement of ancient Khmer craftsmanship, as well as mankind’s pursuit of magnificence, however small. It’s like poetry in stone, a beauty that is not fleeting, but is rather enduring. Yajñavaraha must have been proud to know that more than a thousand years after the completion of the temple he envisioned, it is still standing with its building blocks and original statues and carvings largely intact, and perennially draws admiration from those who see it in person.
Fine and intricate carvings from more than a thousand years ago
The Hindu goddess Lakshmi with two elephants, a symbolism known as Gajalakshmi
I see you
I had never seen any ancient temple this richly decorated before
The towers of the sanctuary
Guardians of the sanctuary are depicted as humans with animal heads
No surface is left unadorned
The ornately-decorated pediment of the south library
A scene depicting Shiva, Uma, and ten-headed Ravana, from the Ramayana
Shiva Nataraja on the gopura of the second enclosure
The fight between Vali and Sugriva, also from the Ramayana
The sanctuary viewed from the north
Details of the mandapa (entrance chamber) to the main sanctum
Banteay Srei, the masterpiece of Khmer craftsmanship
What an Amazing World! 
I also liked Banteay Srei, its abundant decoration is nevertheless elegant. Especially its small size makes it more human after the massive temples of Angkor.
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Exactly! Sometimes bigger is not always better. Maybe because Banteay Srei was never meant to be a state temple its architect had more liberty to design something at this relatively modest scale and focus more on the quality of the carvings.
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I don’t remember reading the history of Banteay Srei, or at least not in the details you’ve described, but it remains one of my favourite places in the world. Names of other sites slip through my memory but reading or hearing Banteay Srei brings back the emotions that you describe. I love your opening comments of what our hands can do, it is so perfect for this site. Great post Bama. Maggie
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Admittedly I had to dig a little deeper to find all the information I included in the blog post since some aspects of Banteay Srei’s history are not readily available to read. But I agree with you that this ancient temple is so beautiful, elegant, and richly decorated it will forever stay in the memories of those who have seen it in person.
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this is so stunning and good to know the story
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I hope this post helps provide a little bit more information about such a marvelous ancient temple built more than 1,000 years ago. It’s so old yet the carvings are still largely very discernible, which is amazing.
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This is amazing work. Thank you for this post, it adds a gem to my list of yet-unvisited places.
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Thanks I.J. Blogging only adds such places to our ever-expanding lists, doesn’t it? But that’s not a bad thing since it shows us that there are so many beautiful corners of the world we might have otherwise overlooked.
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Banteay Srei was definitely a favourite of mine too, Bama, and I love this revisit through your eyes which mixes its fascinating history your personal experience. Your words paint such a vivid picture, not just capturing its beauty, but also your emotional reaction to it. I am so glad you chose the perfect day to visit, and that you had the place to yourselves. There is something very spiritual embedded in these places, where all our sense are awake. The red sandstone and size alone make this stand out, but those carvings! They are just awe-inspiring. Amazing how hands can create this beauty, but also destroy it.
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I had been captivated by Banteay Srei long before I got the chance to see it, and it was even more beautiful and magnificent in person. I grew up visiting ancient temples which many of them have elaborate stone carvings dating to the eighth- and ninth-centuries CE. But even so, I was still in awe with the level of finesse displayed at Banteay Srei. When in Siem Reap, I kept checking the weather forecast day by day to see when the perfect time would be to go to this temple. And I’m glad I did because the morning we went the skies were so blue. It also helped we arrived when others hadn’t so we could marvel at those intricate reliefs with only the sound of those parakeets around us.
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“They slap, they punch, they stab, they fire a gun, they molest, they hurt.
But they also write, they cook, they sculpt, they caress, they play music, they paint, they create.”
100% agreed, Bama. The worst bit is when the same hand does both. Loved how intricate Hindu temples can be; one of the places I normally take visitors when in London is the Hindu temple in Neasden and it always make for an interesting discovery for those who’ve never been in one!
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Thanks to the many aspects of Hinduism there is a wide array of stories from the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, the Puranas, and all other sacred texts that have been inspiring past and present sculptors to immortalize them in stone carvings. Even for someone like me who had only been exposed to the Hindu architecture of Java and Bali, when I saw a Tamil temple for the first time I was mesmerized by it. I have never been to the one in Neasden, but from the photos on the internet I can see why you often take visitors there. It looks quite impressive!
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I really enjoyed your tour of Banteay Srei and I can see why James said this was his favourite temple tour. The artistry and detailed intricacy of the carvings are beautiful and definitely that size is not at all that matters in this case.
I also like your observation about the inner circle of the royal families. Some are born into royalty while some become part of the trusted community because of their talent and they play as much as of a role in creating a legacy for the ruling family through their sheer talent.
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The modest size of Banteay Srei made it easier for us to explore its corners as opposed to having to walk a lot to see parts of a temple as was the case with many ancient Khmer structures.
It would be interesting if someone actually makes a miniseries on the members of the Khmer royal families with all the dramas and internal power struggles.
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I think someone should do it. You often see a lot of Chinese, Japanese and Korean stories at least in my part of the world. It would be great if stories and histories from other cultures would be shared and become more well known too!
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Exactly! I remember when I was watching Raya and the Last Dragon, I couldn’t help but think while Chinese and Japanese (and maybe also Korean) stories got their own Hollywood movies, Southeast Asians must for now be content with a movie that combines bits of pieces of the cultures in the region. Hopefully this too will change one day.
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Korean pop culture is big over here whether it’s music, movies or tv shows. I think it’s probably the biggest out of the different Asian pop culture influences at the moment. My hubby is hooked on the tv series. 😊 And I can see why as they’re so well done.
It’ll be nice for other stories and influences to get their time to shine too.
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Amazing work of art. The details are truly fine and wonderful. Thanks for taking us along on this visit. (Suzanne)
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If you ever go to Cambodia, you should not miss this temple. It’s a bit further away from the other ancient monuments, but as you can see it’s certainly worth the trip.
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I enjoyed visiting Banteay Srei with you, Bama. Your attention to the details in the photos makes me feel like I’m standing there in person. Another excellent post!
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Thank you, Mike and Kellye. Stone carvings, especially if they’re ancient, are among the things I’m most drawn to when I travel. There’s something about them I find mesmerizing.
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Yes, we love ruins too. There is so much to learn from them.
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While the carvings are beyond profound, at the same time, the influence from India reveals a strong connection even down to the kings’ names. I can imagine how you must have felt as you’ve described it so well and I’m sure this will be a lasting memory.
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And those names don’t sound too foreign to me at all since in the past when many parts of Indonesia were still predominantly Hindu we had kings like Mulavarman and Purnavarman. When researching about these ancient sites in Angkor I also learned that there was a time when the Khmer Empire formed an alliance with the Cholas of southern India against the Sumatra-based Srivijaya Empire and the kingdom of Tambralinga in what is now Peninsular Malaysia.
I think there are only a few other ancient temples whose detailed carvings can match those of Banteay Srei, which makes this place very special.
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A fascinating past. Thanks.
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Growing up, our schools never mentioned anything about the rich history and culture of Asia. It was from a western point of view and our own country. Although it ignored Indigenous history.
I think you would make a pretty good teacher if you’re ever looking for a career change.
I love the details in the temple.
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I think many people around the world know more about the history of ancient Greece and Rome than that of other great civilizations across the globe. I hope international travel and blogging help to gradually change that so cultures like Khmer can be in the spotlight too.
Ha! I don’t know if I have the patience to be a teacher though.
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What an awesome story. I almost feel inadequate knowing I won’t leave anything this magnificent behind haha. Yajñavaraha would indeed be proud if he know people from all around the world were discussing his story all these centuries later, and I can see why this temple was one of your favourites!
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Haha, most of us probably feel the same way. We may not be able to create something like this, but preserving it and other ancient works of art is more than enough of a contribution to mankind.
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It’s always interesting to hear about the history of these ancient structures and ruins. It looks like you had perfect lighting of the sun for taking pictures. All the intricate and elaborate details and carvings are incredibly impressive.
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The weather that morning really was perfect for outdoor photography as the soft sunlight helped accentuate the details of those carvings. I couldn’t have asked for a better day to visit this incredibly beautiful temple.
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How fun to read this post right after I have been to Banteay Srei myself! The level of detail in the carvings was indeed impressive, and our guide repeatedly emphasized the nickname of “the lady temple” or “the women’s temple,” saying that the pink sandstone and the fine craftsmanship could only have been done by a female. While that is arguable, I will always remember this smaller-scale complex within Angkor as the refined, feminine version of the many magnificent structures there.
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I’m so happy you also went to Banteay Srei! I didn’t go on my first trip and I had to wait for 11 years to finally see it. What other temples did you visit in Cambodia? About the theory you heard regarding how Banteay Srei’s fine carvings could have only been done by a female, I think in general we have to take what tour guides tell us with a grain of salt.
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Oh, for sure the comment about women’s craftsmanship was taken with a grain of salt! Banteay Srei does translate as Citadel (or City) of Women, though, so I think he was just playing up that whole name and pink color thing! I also went to Angkor Wat (of course), Ta Prohm, Angkor Thom and Bayon, Banteay Samre, and Preah Khan. I think that’s it for real visits; we drove past a couple more. Such an enormous place!
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Ahh we missed Banteay Samre this time. Even with one full week in Siem Reap we couldn’t see everything. But that’s a good reason to go back. I’m really happy you finally went to Cambodia, Lex!
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I can imagine how overwhelming these carvings are in reality! Your excellent photos and descriptions certainly entice us to visit this wonderful place. Thanks!
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Hi Marilyn! It’s good to “see” you again. Which part of the world are you currently in? Speaking of the unbelievably detailed carvings of Banteay Srei, overwhelming is probably a good word to describe how I felt when I was standing in front of them. I might have said ‘wow’ too many times that morning!
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Wow, this place looks absolutely stunning! All those fine decorations and carvings are truly impressive and I think the phrase “poetry in stone” perfectly sums up what it is. Thank you for taking us on this tour!
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And to think that this temple was built more than 1,000 years ago… just incredible, isn’t it? Banteay Srei is definitely among the most impressive ancient sites I have been to.
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What a beautiful temple, it is as you say, poetry in stone! I love the intricate details of the carvings, every piece telling a story!
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Banteay Srei must be one of the most intricately-decorated ancient temples in the world. It’s amazing to think of the level of craftsmanship achieved by those who lived hundreds and thousands of years ago!
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Your beginning with what our hands are capable of is brilliant. This is an amazing and very educational post. Your writing is superb!
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I don’t know how I got the idea, but when I was looking at the photos I took at Banteay Srei, I couldn’t help but think of the skilled hands that created those fine carvings. Thank you, John and Susan!
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How wonderful Mama to see all of this incredible intricate beauty with your own eyes. It really is hard to believe that it is carved out of stone and not wood. I particularly love all the figures. Your description of it and your excitement at taking this all in was all lovely to read. Poetry in stone is a very good way of putting it.
Peta
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P.S. excuse the auto correct typo. Funny though that Bama got changed to Mama. Apologies.
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Ha! No worries, Peta. One doesn’t necessarily need to know who those carved figures are to appreciate this labor of love. Sometimes I wonder, how on earth did they manage to work around with the stone blocks and not break them or chip away pieces of the carvings? I’ve also been thinking about how the presumably slower pace of life back then contributed to the creation of such an incredible temple.
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Beautiful creation, Bama; this is a fantastic post to begin my day with. Sometimes I am almost paralyzed by sites and works of art of people who lived so long ago but have created something that truly stands the test of time. It also makes me think of all that has been lost over time ~ pieces of art, pieces of souls that we never will get to see… but then I realize art from all generations does carry a bit of every one of that time. The artistry of Banteay Srei you show and introduce in this post is an excellent example of the love of creation for the love of beauty ~ not being state-funded adds more authenticity. An incredible series of photographs and your writing (as always) is so engaging.
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It is indeed sad to think of the works of art that have been lost forever. That makes protecting what we still have, like Banteay Srei, even more important. Speaking of this ancient temple, you’re right to say that this was created out of the love of beauty. I imagine constructing it must have cost quite a fortune, which is why we see less and less of such level of artistry these days. Have a good rest of the week, Randall!
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What a wonderful place! The stone carvings are amazing!
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Banteay Srei truly is special. I think the smaller scale compared to the other temples in Angkor actually helps visitors to appreciate those intricate carvings more.
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What a wonderful post on Banteay Srei, James. I really like how you started the description of the post on what our hands can do. Hands can do so many things, including creating the all that you saw on your trip here. Impressive that red sandstone is the main material of the temple, giving it its reddish brown colour which is also quite striking in the sunlight. It really looks stunning all round, and taking more than a thousand years to complete is quite something. Thank you for sharing the history of Banteay Srei. You really picked a good weather day to visit. 🙂
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I am so sorry, I meant to say Bama! Not James. Always confuse the two of you, especially visiting your blogs one after the other 😄
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Haha! No worries, Mabel. 😄 If I get the chance, I would visit Banteay Srei again in a heartbeat. I think there are still some parts of the temple that I somehow missed. I would definitely recommend taking a detour from the main Angkor monuments to see this small but incredibly ornate temple to any ancient structure enthusiast out there.
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I hope I do not confuse you with James again…but I think I might 😄 Sometimes the detours and smaller places to visit are like hidden gems well worth the visit. Keep exploring, Bama 😊
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Don’t worry if that happens again. 😊
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Stunning architecture! These ancient temples with their brilliant carvings are marvels and to think so many years were dedicated to build one and with nothing but basic tools. So true that the same hands that is capable of cruelty is also capable to creating such beauty. Generations of artisans would have spend their time in just creating one temples. So much dedication, loyalty and patience. It’s unimaginable to say the least to today’s fast-paced world.
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Isn’t Banteay Srei beautiful? Only a true passion and love for beauty could have created something so spectacularly exquisite and refined. I really wonder if we will ever be able to make something so sublime anymore.
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