Candi Merak on a sunny morning
Merak. In your language this word may or may not mean something, but in Indonesian it refers to the peacock, one of the most extravagant-looking birds whose visually-arresting plumage varies from metallic blue to bright green. It also happens to be what a candi (ancient Hindu/Buddhist structure) deep in a Central Javan countryside was named after. First discovered in the early 20th century in a ruined state, the temple is believed to date back to the eighth or ninth century CE when this part of Java was still ruled by the powerful Medang (Ancient Mataram) kingdom. Experts came to this conclusion based on some of the temple’s architectural elements which are commonly found in other candis from the same era.
Despite its relatively modest size, restoring Candi Merak as close as possible to its original look proved to be a long and slow process. While preliminary research had been conducted in 1925, the first reconstruction was only carried out in 2007 which focused on the base and the sanctum. The structure’s crown – among the most ornately decorated parts of the temple – was installed four years later. The pinnacle, however, is still missing, leaving our imagination to picture how it must have looked in the past.
“Where is the peacock?” my mom suddenly asked me as the two of us and James were visiting this candi situated amid a tranquil setting of a typical Javanese village. It was almost 8:30 in the morning and the sun was already quite high. However, the trees to the east of the temple compound were so tall they blocked the sun that would have otherwise cast its rays on this beautiful structure. Luckily, prior to seeing Candi Merak in person I had read about the origin of the name so I didn’t have to examine each of the temple’s decorative elements – relief panels, statues, and sculpted walls and lintels, among other things – to look for a peacock. The name was in fact attributed to the existence of the birds around the temple upon its rediscovery. Also found in the vicinity were Terminalia bellirica trees, a large deciduous tree species commonly found in South and Southeast Asia. I have seen an image on the internet of a blue peacock (Pavo cristatus, which is native to the Indian subcontinent) perching on a branch of this particular tree. Was this a common sight around Candi Merak back in the days? Quite possibly, although it must have been the green peacock (Pavo muticus) that flocked to the trees around the temple.
While the intricate details – or what remain of them – were in shadow, the absence of direct sun made walking around the temple rather pleasant. Then how can we tell whether a candi was Hindu or Buddhist? you may ask. Just look at the statues. Candi Merak is adorned with depictions of Durga, Ganesha, and Nandi, all associated with Shiva, one of the principal deities in Hinduism. However, if you’re not familiar at all with any of these, you will still find something interesting about this candi. The sculpted figures at the base of the main structure’s stairs, for example.
Makara is a mythical sea creature that is often present in Hindu and Buddhist temples across Asia. In Indonesia, its variations are often placed at the base of the main entrance to a temple’s sanctum. It is typically depicted with an open mouth, inside of which a small beast is usually present, with its elephant-like trunk curled above its head as can be seen here (from Candi Sambisari) and here (from Candi Ngawen). However, the makaras of Candi Merak are markedly different for the presence of a serpent’s head at the tip of the trunk in a position that resembles a standing cobra.
So, no peacocks on the day we went, only snakes – petrified, fortunately.
Mythical figures and celestial beings
A headless statue of Durga Mahisasuramardini
Ganesha, the Hindu god of wisdom, patron of arts and sciences, and remover of obstacles
Nandi, the mount of Shiva with its head severed
Candi Merak’s unique makara, notable for the depiction of a serpent
Old and new
Look up and be awed
Probably Mahakala, one of the two guardians of a Hindu temple
Fortunately some of the original sculptures managed to survive the test of time
Waiting for the pinnacle to be found one day
Looking at the west side of the structure
What an Amazing World! 
Love your pictures and description of Candi Merak. I’ve always been intrigued by the mythical sea creatures and serpents found at the base of Hindu and Buddhist temples, Aztec and Mayan pyramids and temples also have a similar figure at the base of the main structure’s stairs, it is the Feathered Serpent representing Quetzalcóatl the god of winds and rain, and the creator of the world and humanity.
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Thanks Liz. Now you know why I’ve been so intrigued by Aztec and Mayan mythologies, and it is my dream to see the depictions of Quetzalcóatl, Chac, and other gods native to this region one day in person when I visit those magnificent pyramids and temples.
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I hope you get to visit the Aztec and Mayan pyramids one day! I know you will love it!
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Wow! Fabulous and wonderfully preserved. Yes, that makara is special.
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Since I’ve been to quite a number of ancient temples in Indonesia, now I pay more attention to each candi’s unique features like Candi Merak’s makara. Very special, indeed.
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I zoomed in on your photos to find the peacock but no luck 🙂 I guess robbers took them away as they did with many deity heads.
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I’m not sure if this temple actually had any peacock carving in the past, but its present name is largely attributed to the sighting of peacocks in the vicinity when it was rediscovered.
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I enjoyed this tour of Candi Merak, what a beautiful temple! It’s very interesting to try to trace back the history and origins of a place that dates back hundreds of years based on the clues provided in the architecture. It’s always amazing to see the level of intricate details put into the architecture and the craftsmanship that withstands the test of time. Maybe one day the peacocks will return. They really are beautiful majestic birds.
Have a nice weekend, Bama! 😊
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There was a time when I wanted to become an archaeologist because the idea of discovering long-lost temples and trying to trace back their history sounded so appealing. I’ve seen so many ancient temples, but to this day I’m still awed by hundreds- and thousands-year-old carvings that adorn many of them.
Have a relaxing weekend too, Ab! 😊
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I think you would’ve been an amazing archeologist. You write your travelogues with great detail, enthusiasm and they’re enjoyable and insightful to read. 😊
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You’re too kind, Ab. But thanks! 😊
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I would really love to visit one of these old temples with you one day. You have so much information on the gods, mythical creatures and the stories that go along. I try to read about them before visiting, but it is all so foreign and stories so extensive that I don’t remember a lot if it. I’ve also never heard of a green peacock, I’ll have to look it up. Maggie
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It would be lovely to take you to some of my favorite ancient temples in Java, Maggie. Right before I started working again two months ago, I visited some candi I had never been before (stories from these sites are coming soon!). I really needed that trip to boost my mood. 😄
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Beautifully maintained and similar to the Dieng Plateau temples.
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Yes, but with far less visitors. 🙂
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It’s so interesting to learn more about the history of this ancient structure. I guess we’ll just have to use our imagination to picture all the peacocks! The sculptures and carvings are beautiful though.
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If only someone made a drawing of the site when the temple was rediscovered, we wouldn’t have to guess about the peacocks. Now it’s really up to our imagination.
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Great photos of a lot of time spent on making the monument. Obviously, they had no cement back in the 8th/9th century. Did they use cement for the reconstruction?
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I read that for some past reconstructions of a few ancient temples in Indonesia, cement was in fact used. However, after understanding the negative effects this material caused to the structure, the government now opt for other means.
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What an amazing temple! I loved visiting Bali and spending time in awe of all the architecture of the temples and sacred sites. Such a beautiful place.
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Ahh, speaking of Bali, that really is one special place. If you loved the traditional architecture on the island, you may find the ancient temples on Java (which is directly west of Bali) equally interesting.
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Great photos Bama, really demonstrating the wonderful restoration efforts. Love the serpents! They are such a common theme in so many ancient cultures.
Alison
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I guess their shape is one of the main reasons why humans for centuries have been fascinated by snakes, so much so we incorporated them in our mythologies and beliefs.
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What a handsome and curious structure. Someone should re-home a few peacocks there, ha. Actually, probably not. I love the shape of this one and the carvings are sublime. It actually reminds me, just a touch, of some of the little Linga temples in Koh Ker. Which, incidentally, I’ll be posting about soon. We also came across some headless statues there, which we found pleasingly mysterious. Mahakala is my favourite among the images I think, it is wonderful warped.
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Ahh the past connections between Java and Cambodia. It’s always interesting to learn about the similarities among ancient Hindu/Buddhist temples across Southeast Asia. Some elements may not look too different from those we can see at temples in India. However, localization had certainly taken place, giving these centuries-old places of worship unique characters that vary greatly from Java to southern Vietnam, Cambodia to Sumatra.
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It’s amazing that such a small structure can have so many details! Even though you showed the whole building in the first photo, I assumed as I read along that there were other structures on the site. Only at the end did I realize all that carving was really in that one small place. For me, the greatest beauty is the dappled sun on the stone. The deities and creatures are cool, but the variegated blocks of stone in the sunlight please me most!
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In the past, they were other structures — smaller temples — around the main shrine. However, today only the latter survives. The variegated blocks of stone are an important aspect of reconstructing an ancient temple, for people today should be able to distinguish what is old/original and what is new. But I agree that it actually gives not only this temple, but also others across Java a visually pleasing appearance.
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I always marvel at the patience of archaeologists to find the correct stones to put them back where they belong, Bama. I guess it is a bit like building a 3D puzzle, but just without having the completed picture to work from, although I guess there is a certain style and architecture they keep in mind when reconstructing these. It is a pity there are no peacocks living there these days. They are such gorgeous birds.
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It’s a job definitely not suited for those who want to rush things up! Reassembling just a portion of an ancient structure can take years, for experts have to be certain whether a block sits exactly at where it should be based on its ornaments, interlocking features, and other aspects.
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I started off your piece thinking, “oh, so there are peacocks in Indonesia too”, which then led me to wonder where they originated. I quickly learned the blue peacock lives in India and Sri Lanka, while the green peacock is found in Java and Myanmar (Burma). It’s the rest of us that have borrowed birds.
If ancient Java ruins have long captured your imagination, I can see why you have an interest in the Mayan counterparts I’ve been featuring lately.
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The blue peacock is somewhat more famous than its green cousin. Even for me, it wasn’t until 2015 when I saw the latter for the first time in a national park at the eastern end of Java.
Exactly! I grew up visiting ancient Hindu/Buddhist temples in Java, and I’m happy that there are so many of such sites in Southeast Asia, the part of the world where I live in. That’s why the ancient temples and pyramids of Mexico and Egypt are among the things I most want to see above anything else.
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This is an impressive temple with intricate carvings of serpents and figures. It’s especially impressive considering it’s over 1,100 years old. The restorers did a very good job indeed.
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Please bear with me, Hilton, because I still have a few post drafts on Javanese ancient temples in the backlog. 😄 And each of them is unique in their own way. The craftsmanship from this period of history is just astonishing.
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No problem, Bama, looking forward to seeing those posts about ancient Javanese temples when you have time to publish them.
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Great descriptions and pictures, I loved learning more about this place and find it really fascinating! The intricate details are really stunning and I always marvel at how they manage to get such ornate statues and sculptures with just a block of stone/marble/etc. ahah tahnks for taking us with you on your tour!
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Thanks Juliette. Every time I see such an ornately decorated ancient site, I always think how nice it would be if I knew how to carve things and make sculptures. Maybe one day!
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A great introduction to Candi Merak for us all, Bama. It astounds me every time I click on one of your posts about the lost magic of ancient times ~ introductions to places I’ve never heard of, but after reading your post, I am left with my imagination picturing how it must have looked in the past; it fuels dreams of adventure. Your photos of all the temples and art are tremendous in helping with depicting how life could have been back then… and then I begin wishing I could only spend just one hour back in time when this place was thriving… Sigh. Thank you for the dreams 🙂 Happy trails to you, Bama, as we head into the fall.
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Hey Randall! I know exactly what you mean about going back in time to see how life was like around the temple. It’s one of the reasons why I love visiting ancient sites, for they often take my imagination back to the time when no one was referring to these places as ‘ancient’. Hope you’ve started traveling again!
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It is astonishing how archaeologists managed to piece together the main temple and reconstruct it from what must have been a heap of fallen stones. I’m glad a great deal of the original details (especially in the upper parts) survived the centuries. My favorite carvings and sculptures are the ones of Ganesha and the Mahakala with the divine wishing tree, whose style reminds me very much of the reliefs found at nearby Prambanan. Thank you for finding and recommending Candi Merak on our recent trip to Central Java – that was an auspicious start to a day of temple-hopping!
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I can imagine the satisfaction from the archaeologists who were involved in Candi Merak’s reconstruction when they managed to reassemble the stones and put the reliefs back to where they should be. It’s good to know that the carvings that survived are mostly in a relatively good condition. This brief visit really was a nice start to that long but satisfying day! And I’m glad my mom also enjoyed the trip.
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